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Woodworking Discussion Forum
matthewrust
Member since Jan-27-08
71 posts |
Jun-24-08, 07:39 PM (EST) |
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"Aromatic cedar lining and top advice"
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I finally wrapped up the box portion of my daughter's mini-hope chest. It will be used to store some of her baby-hood keepsakes. I am really happy with the results so far. The dark is mahogany and the light is figured birch. Everything is biscuit joined and perfectly square (a first for me). I still need to clean up some glue residue and give a few final coats of laquer and a topping of wax. The inside is not stained because I will be lining it in aromatic cedar, but I did coat it with lacquer to help with moisture absorbtion. What I need help with is the method of lining the box with aromatic cedar (brad nail, glue, screws)... I would also be interested in what you guys think I can do in terms of the top. I planned on doing solid mahogany, but I think something fancier may be in order... 
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Matthew Rust
Columbus, IN |
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Sawduster
Member since Sep-2-04
13393 posts |
Jun-24-08, 07:58 PM (EST) |
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1. "RE: Aromatic cedar lining and top advice"
In response to message #0
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LAST EDITED ON Jun-24-08 AT 07:59 PM (EST)
Lookin good so far!What I would do is lay in the bottom with the corners cut out to fit around the legs. Doesn't need to be really tight fitting since I would then fit the sides of the interior lining using tongue and grooved pieces set in vertically and leaving maybe a dime width gap between the pieces for expansion. Leave the cedar a quater or half inch shy of the top lip. Make up some shop made 1/4 round molding, maybe 1/2" radius, from either the cedar or the mahogany (mahogany would be my choice) and tack it in place around the bottom perimeter. I'd also make some sort of small base shoe shaped molding a quarter inch thicker than your cedar with a wide rabbet cut out on the back the depth of the cedar thickness. Set this molding in place overlapping the top of the cedar to hold it in place. If you wanna get fancy for the top, how about raised panels in frames? Otherwise, just a flat top with breadboard ends. Jerry 
A "Charter Member" before the crash of '04. "No man's life, liberty, or property is safe," warned Mark Twain, "while Congress is in session." Visit my woodworking website:
http://www.sawdustersplace.com
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matthewrust
Member since Jan-27-08
71 posts |
Jun-24-08, 09:02 PM (EST) |
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2. "RE: Aromatic cedar lining and top advice"
In response to message #1
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Thanks for the positive comments. I wish I would have dusted this thing off before the photo shoot. While I can tell it is hand-built, the finish and wood on this are so nice that I'm afraid people will think we bought it. I am getting really good at spraying lacquer. As for the top, I can only think of doing panels to match the sides or a flat slab with some sort of profiled edge. I wish I knew how to engrave or inlay... Maybe it is time to learn... Any other ideas, guys? --
Matthew Rust
Columbus, IN |
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Cody Colston
Member since Apr-9-03
5818 posts |
Jun-24-08, 09:52 PM (EST) |
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3. "RE: Aromatic cedar lining and top advice"
In response to message #2
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I'd do what Jerry said about the lining and add that I would glue it in place. Please, no brad nails. For the top, in addition to what Jerry mentioned, you could also purchase or saw your own veneer and apply it over a plywood substrate. Then you could use solid wood mitered edging without fear of wood movement opening the miters. That way you could stay with the Mahogany-Birch contrast...Birch veneer with Mahogany edging. Attaching the solid wood edging to plywood is also another excellent application of biscuits. That's how David Marks would likely do it. Of course, he would also do some neat marquetry on the top.  Cody
Tyler, TX
He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep for that which he cannot lose.
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Sawduster
Member since Sep-2-04
13393 posts |
Jun-25-08, 11:42 AM (EST) |
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6. "RE: Aromatic cedar lining and top advice"
In response to message #5
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I was hoping someone would tell me not to use brad nails. I have done my best to make this an all-wood and glue piece... Bravo, young sir! The use of brads I mentioned was an expedient method to get on with production. You could just glue the molding in place, but do use a lot of clamps as the molding will be somewhat flexible and want to bend away from the clamping pressure between the clamps. If you go with the cedar for the molding, that flexing will be greater and, though some have never had issue with glue not adhering well to cedar, I always take the precautionary step of wiping the cedar glue surface down with denatured alcohol or some other quick drying solvent to remove the natural oils in cedar from the gluing surface. You'll want to do that within minutes of applying the glue because the oils come back to the surface pretty quickly. BTW: Early furniture makers minimized the use of nails in their stuff because the nails were expensive and, depending on where they were located, often quite rare. They even had a special tool which they would use to cut into the wood and pry out a sliver of wood leaving it attached on one end, then drive their headless nail into the void under that sliver, and then glue the sliver back in place, hiding the nail from view. Jerry
A "Charter Member" before the crash of '04. "No man's life, liberty, or property is safe," warned Mark Twain, "while Congress is in session." Visit my woodworking website:
http://www.sawdustersplace.com
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Sawduster
Member since Sep-2-04
13393 posts |
Jun-25-08, 07:07 AM (EST) |
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4. "RE: Aromatic cedar lining and top advice"
In response to message #2
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I recently ordered this router inlay setup from MLCS. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but others have said it is a decent set-up. You can buy templates for all sorts of stuff or make your own. Use with the bushing sleeve to make the inset cut in the lid (etc), then without the sleeve to cut out the piece to be inserted from your contrasting wood. Jerry
A "Charter Member" before the crash of '04. "No man's life, liberty, or property is safe," warned Mark Twain, "while Congress is in session." Visit my woodworking website:
http://www.sawdustersplace.com
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