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tpuzio
Member since Apr-26-05
283 posts
Jan-28-08, 07:02 PM (EST)
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"How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
 
   I need to build a box for doing plyometric exercises (see attached image of retail version made from metal)

Basically the box must withstand the force of me jumping up on top of it and from it. It must be stable and yet not too heavy to carry around (less than 20 pounds perhaps?).

I was thinking of just using some 2x4's and creating some right angles and just screwing and gluing with a plywood top.

However, before I go out all willy nilly, I thought I'd run it by you all to see what interesting ideas you could come up with.

The dimensions of the box would be roughly a cube, although a more pyramid shape (such as in the sample image) would be better for jumping up and down between boxes. I would likely want a 12", 18", and 24" box.

It's only fun until somebody loses an eye!

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  Subject     Author     Message Date     ID  
  RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box Josh from maine Jan-28-08 1
     RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box beamerweb Jan-28-08 2
  RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box Mark F Jan-29-08 3
  RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box Cameron Jan-29-08 4
     RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box tpuzio Jan-29-08 5
         RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box beamerweb Jan-29-08 6
             RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box tpuzio Jan-30-08 7
                 RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box beamerweb Jan-30-08 8
                     RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box Venturan Feb-28-08 9

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Josh from maine
Member since Dec-29-07
44 posts
Jan-28-08, 09:00 PM (EST)
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1. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #0
 
   LAST EDITED ON Jan-28-08 AT 09:02 PM (EST)
 
I would strongly suggest encasing 5 sides of the cube with plywood sheathing, and nail all along the seams. take a jig saw and cut some handels on the sides, near the top, front corners.If you can jump up and down on it you should be able to carry it arround. tip it upside down and you can stack the boxes together when not in use.

~~sawing after midnight... gluing till the dawn...~~


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beamerweb
Member since Sep-30-04
1819 posts
Jan-28-08, 09:13 PM (EST)
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2. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #1
 
   What Josh said.

Soon as i saw the picture I thought of a plywood pedistal. I wouldn't be too concerned with mitering the joints, just lap 'em over and maybe throw in a piece of 1x1 or 2x2 to nail/screw/glue to. It may weigh a little more than 20lbs - maybe 30? - depends on the plywood, mostly. At my local BORG i can get a sheet of birch or maple ply for about 40 bucks. That'd probably make you two of these guys if your cuts are very well planned.

The stacking idea is genius!

Jason Beam
Sacramento, CA

In loving memory of Robert Bolton. We'll all miss you, Sir.



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Mark F
Member since Nov-6-01
612 posts
Jan-29-08, 09:32 AM (EST)
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3. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #0
 
I would build a frame of 2x4's with half lap joints and screw and glue the joints. Sheathing the sides with plywood would make it alot stronger, but if your joints are tight, I think it would be plenty strong without. Adding the plywood would also add alot of weight. Making the bottom wider like in the pic would also give you the advantage of being able to stack several of them.

Mark F


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Cameron
Member since Oct-27-03
65 posts
Jan-29-08, 11:03 AM (EST)
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4. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #0
 
   Back in college, 16 years ago, we had a plywood set of plyometric boxes. Wood frames, with plywood sheathing all around, in trapezoidal shapes. You want the wider bases to avoid the box rolling on you as you jump up on it, especially from a higher to a lower box (down to ground, right back up to box). They were quite sturdy, and lasted at least the 4 years of my track career. Our biggest box was 36 inches tall, and had people 185 lbs to 275 lbs using them. Good luck!

Mike


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tpuzio
Member since Apr-26-05
283 posts
Jan-29-08, 08:50 PM (EST)
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5. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #4
 
   thanks for the input.

I like the stacking idea, putting these away when I'm done is important.

Wider at the bottom so it doesn't tip over is anoter good tip. I just thought the base was wider than the top so your toes wouldn't kick the top edge when jumping up.

So here's my plan, based upon what all you said.



  1. I'm going to make 2 trapezoid shape frames with 2x4's. These will face each other and form the left and right side of the box.

  2. Then I'll take some plywood and cut it out to be the same size and shape as the frames. These two plywood faces will be the front and back sides of the box

  3. Next I'll take the plywood and screw it into the edges of the 2x4 frames to form a trapezoid box without a top

  4. Finally I'll finish it off with a plywood top



One important note is that I will have to miter the edges of the 2x4's since they will be leaning in on edge. This isn't that important for the bottom, but for the top, i'll need a level surface to screw the top into. I may choose to add joists from each 2x4 side so that I have a flush screwing surface below the plywood top.

Thanks again for the advice, keep it coming if you have other suggestions. When i get these done I'll post some pictures.

It's only fun until somebody loses an eye!


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beamerweb
Member since Sep-30-04
1819 posts
Jan-29-08, 09:09 PM (EST)
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6. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #5
 
   This structure sounds good, but instead of mitering the 2x4's, consider joining them with half laps. This will give you an incredible amount of strength compared to just miters. Even better would be a "bridle" joint - which is kind of a mortise and tenon on the end of two boards.

What tools do you have? You could easily pull off the half laps (even at the angles needed) with your table saw and a miter gauge. Just keep everything straight in your head and nibble away bit by bit. Lots of dry fits and test cuts in scrap!

Jason Beam
Sacramento, CA

In loving memory of Robert Bolton. We'll all miss you, Sir.



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tpuzio
Member since Apr-26-05
283 posts
Jan-30-08, 06:50 PM (EST)
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7. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #6
 
   When I said mitered I probably should have said beveled. I'm going to just slap the 2x4's together like I'm building a ladder for a construction site. simple lap joint (one board over the other) glued and screwed.

The edge of the 2x4 will be against the ground and leaning in at a slight angle so the bottom edge (the narrow part of the 2x4) would need to be beveled to make it sit flat on the ground. The same is true for the top.

I have all the tools I need for this. I just need it to be in the 40's or higher before I go out and do some woodworking. It was 0 for much of the day today in Chicago.

It's only fun until somebody loses an eye!


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beamerweb
Member since Sep-30-04
1819 posts
Jan-30-08, 08:12 PM (EST)
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8. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #7
 
   Oh sure, gotcha now ... yep, beveled

Jason Beam
Sacramento, CA

In loving memory of Robert Bolton. We'll all miss you, Sir.



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Venturan
Member since Dec-26-07
6 posts
Feb-28-08, 11:54 PM (EST)
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9. "RE: How to build a sturdy plyometric box"
In response to message #8
 
   I was a football coach for 12 years and used plyo boxes etensively with my athletes; I a huge believer. Oh, the joys of watching fat guys trying to jump up on boxes!

I may be too late, but some advice I'd give ya to save your shins, cuz if ya don't make it all the way up, your shins are gonna take a beating:

Make sure your top is flush to the sides-you don't want ANY sort of lip to catch your toe on and go head over heels.

Also, when jumping, make sure the handle holes are only on 2 sides of the box, and make sure they are oriented to the sides when jumping so your feet don't catch on those either.

Make sure they can nest to save storage space.

Have some sort of gripping mat on top so you land soft and you land surefooted, especially if there's any moisture on your shoes. Remember, the thickness of the pad will add to the height of your jump.

Unless you really want to test your balance and soft landing skills on the top of the box, make sure your joints are solid and/or reinforced. It's kinda daunting standing up on a wobbly box wondering if your're gonna collapse like a cartoon.


I got a million more tips that don't have to do with woodworking, since I've forgotton more about football than I'll probably ever learn about ww!

Enjoy!

Michael


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