Zac

I've re set the blades twice with no improvement. Now I will not rule out the possibility that I'm screwing up when setting the blades but they do not appear to be angled after setting and I am using a magnetic alignment tool for the jointer albeit a cheap one.

Lets give an example so that everyone is clear on the results I'm gettting. Lets say I start with a 2" thick relatively square piece of lumber say 4' long. And my jointer is set to take off 1/32" per pass. After I pass the board over the jointer say...16 times which would be a 1/2" I do infact get a straight/flat board(depending on if there is any severe dip is the board or not) but one side may now measure 1 & 1/2" and the other side may be 1" which creates a side to side taper. Now I can take that board to my planer and make a nice flat coplaner board say 3/4"+ thick. Which is great but if I start with a 1" thick board then I end up with a 3/4" to 1/4" taper which is not acceptable because I do not want to end up with a 1/4" flat board.

Does that help at all?

Stine

Don't remove any more wood than you need to on the jointer.

In face tou do NOT need to get the entire job done on the jointer. Lets say you have the face mostly flat and there is still some hollow in the middle of the face, but the jointer hit all around the hollow. Call it a day on the jointer and now go to the planer.

In the planer do the normal thing. Plane the opposite side. Once you start to get a flat planed side, start flipping the board over and continue to plane both sides. That way you will remove an even amount of wood from each side.

It soulds like either your jointer needs to be looked ouer to be sure of the coplaner settings, but it also sounds like you have some technique issues.

Definately sounds like you are taking too much material at the jointer.

Leo

Before the 04 crash;
Member since October, 2003

JOURNEY

The only technique advice I can offer other than applying uniform pressure is to shim or otherwise bias twisted boards so that you joint the opposite high corners first, thus averaging out and minimizing the thickness loss at those corners.

Dave

The 16 pass was just an example of relatively square board. I have some rough cut walnut that does need alot of passes becuase they are not relatively square or flat. There is no need to pencil the board for a reference because the wood is rough cut and I can tell when I've flattened the entire face as the roughness disappears and leaves a nice beautiful piece of wood....but wedged.

So yes the jointer is working...it is getting me a flat face but I do not think that it should be making a wedge in the manner it is.

If I get time i'll take some pictures of the actual boards and you can tell me what you think.

Thanks,
Jason

Maybe pics would help - but from what you're describing, you're getting exactly what a jointer should give you. It's the nature of it. Now if you feel like you're wasting a whole lot of thickness due to this, it could be possible to compensate a bit with some modifications to your feed technique. But generally, if it takes more off one side than the other it's because that side is further "off" from flat - flat is relative to the angle at which the stock is being fed. So if the board is kinda shallow on one edge compared to the other, it'll lose less wood since the other has to catch up.

IF the infeed table is "down" on one side compared to the outfeed table, this could also cause what you're describing. It's a coplanar issue that you'd have to discover - take yer straightest straightedge and stick it on the outfeed table. First, near the fence, and let it overhang the infeed table. Now look at the gap between that straight edge and the infeed table. Get a good idea of that distance in yer head. Now move the straight edge further away from the fence (toward you) and see if that gap changes any. If so, then you're not coplanar. Dig out the manual and have a look at how your jointer wants you to perform that adjustment.

As an alternate test - get to a nice flat surface on a board, then take one more pass, but stop only 3-4" in and shut the thing off. Measure the cut depth near both edges. Is it deeper on one side than the other? That's the side that's Low.

Jason Beam
Sacramento, CA

In loving memory of Robert Bolton. We'll all miss you, Sir.

I adjusted the knives a few times. Then I had the damn thing all out of whack. Adjusted some more...put the outfeed table down a hair and I'm back where I started and it doesnt look so bad now

Yes Limey, the wedge is always the same way. Thin side towards the fence. After repeatedly setting the knives I conclude that the infeed and outfeed table must not be aligned from side to side. I is making a flat face so I'll leave it be for now but I believe it is finally time for me to invest is some alignment equipment like a dial indicator and magnetic base and a good straight edge.

Would it be a problem if I switched the board end for end while jointing keeping the same face to the jointer bed allowing me to alternate the wedge and keep it to a minimum? or would that cause a promlem?

Stine

-- Tim --