Dado Blade Size

[TomG]

I have a 10" Delta Contractors table saw, 1.5 HP motor, and after years of making dados with multiple passes of a regular saw blade, I've decided to buy a dado set. I've read some things about dado sets, and I think I'm going to go with the Freud set, but I'm not sure whether to go with 6" or 8". Does it just boil down to this: 8" is better for making deeper dados (blade protrudes farther above table) but 6" is easier on the motor (less weight)? Or are there other factors to consider in the decision? What would you recommend for my saw?

Tom

[MadMark]

10" diameter blade on most saws will expose a maximum of 3" of blade. 8" will only show 2" and 6" just one.

Now if you're using a sled with a 1/2" base the deepest dado you can cut is 1/2" with a 6" set. Fine for shelving but not so good for finger joints in 3/4" material!

Bigger dia = faster cutting usually implies smoother cutting.

Lots of mass to spin up.

Having said all that I generally prefer a router for dado's. Easier to get precise control over both width and depth (especially for oddball widths - two passes with an undersize bit can make up any width you need.)

Also you might want to check how much arbor you have sticking out of the nut right now. If it's less that 1" you might not have enough for the full set. Many saw manufacturers are putting shorter arbors on their saws to discourage dado blade use.

Dado's take a huge chunk out as they cut and are prone to gnawing if you feed agressively.

[Steven Wilson]

There are a couple of downsides to an 8" dato set (and that is the size I use),

1) If you need to make stopped dato's you will have more material to clean out with a chisel.

2) The dato insert for many contractor saws are sized to handle a 6" dato set so you will need to make your own insert (not a big deal but it is work on your part)

[homebuilder]

I have the Dewalt DW744S table saw, and it's rated at 3hp PEAK. With this in mind, I chose to go with a Freud SD506 dado set.(6" dado set) I was going to purchase the SD306 Saftey Dado set but, I changed my mind. The SD506 set comes with a full set of shims, to help adjust the stack to odd ball size material. Also, it has 4 WING CUTTERS whereas the SD306 has only TWO. I've been playing around with this dado set now for several days, and I love it!!! Clean flat bottomed dados, no tearout, and the saw doesn't complain when I feed at faster rates. Mind you, the SAW MANUFACTURER TOLD ME that I could USE AN 8" set on the saw but, I chose to go with the smaller set to keep the horsepower of the saw up.

You can see the blade here:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000223OB/qid=1041460927/sr=8-2/ref=sr_8_2/002-7836532-1906430?v=glance&s=hi&n=507846

So, hope that helps ya out?!

Ciao!!

Clint

[TomG]

Thanks, guys. Mark, I have done dados and rabbets with my router table and I just can't seem to avoid a bunch of chipping out, even making multiple smaller passes. Must be me, but that's one reason I'm looking at a dado set for the TS.

Was looking between the Freud SD506 and SD508. I would jump on the SD508 set, but I've read enough cautions about too much duty on the motor (1.5 HP) to make me hesitant. Is the 8" set just too risky for the motor? I know the 6" would be better handled by the motor, but as Mark says, the blade exposure is pretty limited.

Is the 8" set just too much for the motor?

Tom


"Jesus went out from there... When the Sabbath came, He began to teach... and the many listeners were astonished, saying, “Is not this the carpenter?" Mark 6

[doo_hicky]

I am running an 8" on my Delta contractor saw and have made 3/4 wide dados in oak plywood and red oak thar were 1/2 inch deed and have not experienced any significant drain on the 1.5 hp motor. The dado I have is the Oldham signature series. It cuts smooth flat bottoms with the edges being just slightly at an angle and lower because the outer 2 blades are beveled.

The one thing to make sure to have done is make sure your blade is running true to the miter slots. This will help you avoid tearout that would show up if there was any misalignment, plus any binding issues.

The one thing that I do is to use a metal ruler to measuse the distance the fence is from either miter slot to make sure the fence is parallel to the blade because the blade is parallel to the slot. I do this for piece of mind because I have had the bolts that adjust the alignment on the fence to work loose for some reason, and for all the longer it takes it is worth having a real nice cut.

Hope this helps

Mike

[carl civi]

Hi Guys,the rule of thumb i was always taught was to go with what ever
the capaciaty of your saw is,go to one size down.So if you have a 10"
go to 8" But this does not apply to bench saws.Your arbor on those saws are not usauly big enough and the diliverd power is differant then those of contracters and cabinet saws.I use a 8" ridge carbide dado set in my 10"contractors saw and it works great no trouble. Good luck Carl