Bought a new router table setup

[IamWood]

Didn't really plan on spending the money, specially when I am (was) close to pulling the trigger on a bandsaw, but frustration with my Ryobi table top router table sent me over the edge last weekend.

Though many of you suggested building my own top when I asked about the table Rockler sells, I went with a pre fabricated model... but went entirely Jessem.
MastRTop
MastRFence
MastRLift FX
Porter Cable 690 (yeah, I know, not the 27HP model most of you would have gotten, but its a huge step up for what I came from)

I build a cabinet this weekend, got it all put together, test fired it, but have not officially used it yet... can you believe it? I was just too tired to muck around with routing something by the time I got to the point where I could.

I've got two questions at this point...

1. the fence has these sliding boards on the front. Is the idea to adjust the opening between the boards so that the router bit has just enough room without hitting the boards? Is there a general rule for setting the gap?

2. I had a miter slot on the old Ryobi, but the question still appies... I can't think of an operation I would do that would require me to use a miter gauge... so, just looking for a 'splanation on that. I see Jessem makes some pretty fancy miter gauge deal-e-o's and I am at a loss as to why that would be worth the investment (I'm not contemplating purchasing ANYTHING else at this point... I'm just curious)

Once I get the drawers built for the cabinet, I'll take a couple pics and share.

[beamerweb]

#1 - Yes, what you're thinking. Getting close to the cut helps support the stock so you get less tearout.


#2 - Miter slot or not ... that is the question. NOBODY has the answer. NOBODY's way is right. Period. It's all a matter of personal preference. I had a slot in my first two. Used it twice and didn't like it. Went with a big square block with a handle and used the fence - that's the way i like it. I hate the miter gauge on a router. It forces the fence to be parallel to the slot (if you're also using the fence) and some have said it weakens their tops causing sag.

The answer was clear for me: The square push block on the fence was more controlable and produced better results FOR ME.

Other folks passionately love their miter slots. It's perfectly fine if they do. :)

[sibi1972]

I use the miter gauge all the time on my router table for cutting the ends of rails with my cope and stick bits.

This way I don't have to worry that the fence is parallel to the miter slot or not.

I rotate the miter gauge until it's at 90 degrees with the fence, back up the cut with scrap and all of that gives me something to hold on to while making the cut. Seems to be working well for me that way.

"Red"

[woodtaco]

i modified a coping sled with a miter slider bar and i run it in the miter slot.

you could also set up special jigs to use the slot

[Bruce50010]

I have the Rockler router table top with a miter slot. My old garage-sale router table "insert" for the table saw also had a miter slot.

I have never used a miter gage in either one, but the slot is invaluable for clamping a feather board down to the table.

[dbriski]

I use my miter slot almost every time I use the router table, to attach my feather boards.

Rarely, (maybe once or twice) have use the miter guage in the miter slot for the router table.

If you need a nice aftermarket miter guage for your table saw, get it for that. Then if you need it for your router table you have one.