Shop Ceiling

[Joe U]

I'm currently in the process of REALLY organizing my basement shop (i.e. putting up paneling, sealing concrete floor, new lighting, etc.), what I'm not sure about is how to handle the ceiling. I've got bare floor/ceiling joists with insulation between them. Should I hang a suspended ceiling? I've thought of putting up 1/4" Luan plywood.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be most helpful.
Thanks,
Joe

[Dick]

I'm interested in this too. Mine is in a 3 car garage. My tools are on wheels around the perimeter. when it's time for work, one or all of the cars get kicked out until I'm done. I plan on insulating the walls, then covering that with white pegboard that is mounted on firring strips, then another firring strip that keeps the seems tidy. I have an open ceiling like you and would like to finish it this summer. I would like any ideas for the ceiling teatment.

[karl in pa]

There's always drywall but it's a beast to put on a ceiling. Then there's the problem of accessing any water lines or wire that may be above it. I'd rule that out.
Then there's sheets of styrofoam insulation. Use drywall screws with large washers so the heads won't get pulled into or through the sheet. It makes for easier access to aforementioned (I've always wanted to use that word in a sentence) utilities. It's a little pricey but it's lighter, cheaper (with the cost of tape, spackle and time considered), and easier than sheetrock. Also, it's not as messy to work with and increases the R-value and noise reduction capability.
I like the idea of a dropped ceiling but it is not cheap. Keep in mind the finished ceiling height. It's also labor intensive what with setting level lines, etc. It's a lot prettier than the styrofoam idea, though.
Now that I've used up my break time and spent my 2 cents worth of info, have fun in your shop. Maybe when you're done you can help me with my little shop of horrors.

[Glen]

ROCK it !

Sheetrock it. Because it's in your shop you can out line where your pipes run if thats a concern for you. Any plumbing traps? simply put up a trap door. Prime and paint it a light color with a gloss. Flat paints and eggshell finishes tend to hold dust. Which leads me to the suspended ceiling. If you opt for this and put std tiles in I suspect you'll have an overhead sawdust problem early on. ANd syrofoam has static clingy issues.
As for installing the rock I recommend renting a sheet rock lift.
It will cut your time and efforts in more than half. Sure you can
use a prop-pole but with a lift (cheap to rent) you can do it yourself and not depend on finding help.
Oh, and use 5/8 fire code sheet rock. It may be required but even if not I strongly advise it.
I've always suggested garage users to scrap off that typical ruogh textured spray finish because of dust issues.

[Joe U]

Thanks very much for all of your suggestions. I will ponder the options carefully. I can't tell you how helpful stuff like this is!
Thanks again,
Joe

[jerry]

I'm with Glen. Anything you do other than sheetrock is just going to be a quick and ineffective fix. Take the time and do it right and you will be happy in the long run.

[Fred Hargis]

My 30 year old garage had something called "builder board" put up for the ceiling. This stuff appeared to be some kind of compredssed cellulose with a white vinyl like covering. The advantages seem to be extremely light weight, easy cleanability, and long life/durability. I recently need to repair a hole I had cut through it and a local lumber yard claimed they could still get the stuff (they told me what it was) at about $12 for a 4X8 sheet. Just thought it might provide another option for you.

[Glen]

So Joe,

Still working under the stars?

Glen

[Joe U]

No actually. Above my shop is an in-law apartment.

That's another reason for closing up the ceiling. Less noise - less dust. Right now still planning everything out.
Thanks for asking,
-Joe

[Roger S. Dillman]

With a good fiberglass insulation and a good taping job,you will not beat a sheetrock ceiling and wall system for fire retardation or comfort. In most areas,it is required to have full insulation and 5/8" sheetrock for fire barriers,between attached garages and houses,or between seperate dwellings in a multible housing unit.

[Glen]

Joe,

Fire codes and/or the love for your in-laws should deem 5/8 "fire rated" sheet rock. Additional soundproofing that can be done for cheap and easy is with sound board. I think I'd go thrrough the trouble to place strips between the joists to keep max ceiling hieght and mostly to keep the joists exposed for hanging the sheetrock. The sound board is the same material as acoustic suspended ceiling tiles are made of. Just much cheaper as there is no 'finish'on the sheets. Haveyou checked into the price of renting a lift for the sheetrock yet? I can't express enough how much time and agony this will save you.

Glen

[Joe U]

I'm probably not going to opt for the sheet rock solution. With all of the pipes hanging below joist level as well as all the associated piping coming off the burner and oil tank, I don't think it would be worth the expense or aggravation.
I'm actually leaning toward either styrofoam panels or those sound boards you spoke of. I'd probably cover them with painted 1/4" luan which should help with light as well as dust clingyness. What do you think?
-joe

[Glen]

I would rethink the styrofoam. Should there ever be a fire I think the toxicity would kill before the flames. If you do opt for the foam I wonder how the foil abcked stuff would work for light reflection puposes?

Glen

[Joe U]

Are you speaking of that bubble wrap type of silver insulation?

I've used that before to insulate a drop down attic door. I wonder if that stuff would be an option? It would certainly be easy to install - just staples. I could push it up as high as possible (there is currently pink insulation between the joists) and staple it. The silver would (I think) reflect the light and I still will have use of the space between the joists. It might be a plan.
-joe

[Glen]

Actualy I was thinking og the rigid foam\building insulation w/foil backing. But if the rolled stuff could do the trick it may be easier for your application. Point was the foil and its reflective properties.

Glen

[OHDave (Guest)]

I'd like to know what you did, and how it is working...
I have the same deal in my shop (formerly my garage)
and I am trying to decide.

I was thinking of white gloss painted luan also.

For me, noise is not the concern,
just ease of cleaning, and light reflection.

Sorry to all of the drywall lovers out there...
just not worth it for me in this situation.


THANKS!

[Glen (Guest)]

Much more than a matter of preferance. Your having a "shop" increases fire potential, rock provides a fire break. To be curt and blunt, it's your home\shop & family.
I screwed up some 1/4" X 2' X as needed strips of plywood. This made it easier to hang lighting, DC piping and "stuff". As for a suspended ceiling, I wouldn't part with an inch of my overhead space.

Glen

[woodchuck1954]

Not only will 5/8" sheetrock provide a decent firebreak,full rolls of fiberglass insulation will add a lot more "fire retardation" and sound proofing. All other methods mentioned,before,will not give you anywheres near the same protection. Fir your joists down blow your pipes. You could even jog,up and down,around pipes. But take my word,nothing else will beat the sheetrock,fiberglass insalation,combo and its reasonably cost effective.

Roger S. Dillman