How many use 220V????????????

[ChicagoWood]

Just wondering how many people use 220 for all the large bench power equipment?

Can a actual cabinet shop survive/provide similar level of quality (I understand lesser equipment/more set up time, etc.) with 115V type equipment only?

I guess I'm trying to defy the expert recommendations to upgrade electric in my garage. I just dont want to purchase a "lower powered" tool and then regret....... sell eventually for a loss.

Any help would be appreciated

Joe

[PastorPaul]

Joe,

The only thing in my shop that runs on 240v (220) is my table saw. All other items are wired for 120v only.

Pastor Paul
http://webpages.charter.net/chalosi/usaC.gif http://webpages.charter.net/chalosi/usaC.gif

"If they don't have woodworking in heaven, I ain't going!!!"

[deathwish2]

I'll see the Pastor's Table Saw and raise you a Dust Collector.

Until I find a more permanent layout, only those two are 220 . . . the rest hum happily on 110. I do plan to update the Band Saw and Jointer to 220 when the layout is final. My other tools either are not capable or require a new motor.

To back up a bit to your question . . . for the most part, any tool at 2hp or less will run on 110. For wood working, that give you all but the biggest Band Saws and Jointers, any of the lunchbox planers, just about any drill press, a good sized Dust Collector, most any lathe . . . etc. Table Saws are about the only thing that go to 3hp or above and really need to go with 220v.

It does however seem to be the concensus around here that most tools, if capable of being switched over, should be. It's better for the motor's lifespan, and in some cases gives you a little more power.

[RandyS]

In my shop I have two tools that run on 220V, my 8" jointer and my brand spanking new dust collector that I picked up at the trucking outfit yesterday.(gloat) My table saw is wired for 110V, I could rewire it for 220V but have never got around to it.

Several of the common power tools people use in their shops, tablesaws, jointers, bandsaws, drill presses, etc. are designed to run on either 110 or 220. Alot of the home shops dont even have 220 available so if these companies want to make money they have to have tools everyone can use.

But 110V draws nearly twice the current that the same motor wired for 220V would draw. Most garage/house wiring for 110 will not handle the higher amps that the larger motors require so they wire them for 220V.

Your larger cabinet shops run equipment that uses three phase power, three phase motors are generally cheaper to buy or replace than single phase and seem to last longer. You usually cant run three phase equipment at home unless you use a converter.

I ain't no electician so I quit here before I say something waaay wrong.

Randy

[rrich]

220 Volts - Absolutely green with envy! }>

Maybe when we remodel the kitchen.

[Bob Crosley]

Right now, I use only 110, as that's all I have available. But of the big tools, I only have a table saw and that saw can only run at 110.

But I'm finalizing my plans to add a subpanel in my shop with 240 and want to run as much at 240 as possible. I figure I only have 30 amps to put in my subpanel and if I run a 15 amp table saw and a 12-14 amp 110 DC, then I don't have much left for lights, portable heaters (this IS Michigan after all), etc.

Going 240 doesn't help my table saw, but does put my DC at 6-7 amps which gives me quite a bit of headroom, in addition to helping everything run smoother and last longer.

Bob

[SuperDad]

If I do my math correctly, a single 1600watt heater will draw more than 10 amps.

My swimming pool subpanel is fed by two 30amp breakers, which I think means its a 30amp subpanel. Not sure on that definition, though.

If your table saw is 120v/14 amp, and your DC is 240v/7amp, then you have about 21 of those 30 amps on one leg already claimed. The last 9 won't feed a heater(ok maybe one of those little disc things). The other leg has 23 available amps, but that probably won't be enough for two heaters. Looks like it is something akin to 2500 watts.

I'd see about upgrading that wiring before running the wire. The next guage up of wire is seldom that much more expensive.

My dad's been suggesting I switch the radial arm saw he passed down to me to 240v, but I haven't gotten around to it. Its an ancient Craftsman, recalled because it is known to shoot boards across rooms...www.radialarmsawrecall.com.

[ASLNROX]

Joe,

I am in our garage and have one 220v. circut, the dryer. Since we have a gas dryer, I made an extension cord (with the advice from this forum) and now I run what ever I can at 220. Currrently, Table saw, jointer, bandsaw and stationary planner. SInce these machines are only used one at a time, it is simply a matter or brining the cord end to them. 220 is the WAY to go! Snap starts and plenty of power to spare!

Blessings,

--Mark

[link:home.earthlink.net/~maspaulding/ | Mark's Garage Shop]

[Bob Crosley]

Super,
I think you're right on the heater issue. I'm going to have to take a look at that. Once I get everything well insulated, I plan to run a duct from the house into the garage which should help with the heat.

My TS being stuck at 110 is one of the things I really don't like about it.

Thanks,
Bob

[ChicagoWood]

Thanks everyone for the help...........

I must admit electricity is very intimidating to me!

Every electrical project I have dealt with has been completed by a professional electrician or a "guy that knows electricity".

A couple more questions, what 110v table saw can you recommend? Aftermarket fence? Also my garage is about 40' from our house, has anyone brought in another electrical service to feed the shop? I havent checked with the city in which I live to see if they would even approve another electrical service?

Have I over thought this our what!

Thanks,

Joe

[bobleverton5]

Joe,

I would echo the sentiments of those who argue for using the 220 if possible. Thus far I have everything that I can wired for 220.

As far as the shop goes, providing your house has a modern electrical service, an electrician could run power from the electrical box to a panel in the shop by way of either overhead or underground. IF you would determine to spend the cash to do this, you should determine what you would plan to run eventually and make sure that you get a large enough service to accommodate it. It is not a terrible expense to make the upgrade and it is nice to have adequate power!

I have a 200 amp service in my home with a 100 amp panel in the garage. I have three lines dedicated to 220.

Electricity is a strange thing - I have done some wiring on my own home - but there are many things that are puzzling.

The first thing would be that there are not more electrical fires than there are. In remodeling older homes, we have seen some of the most cobbled work you could imagine.

One time we were doing some work on a farm and this guy ran his whole operation on a 60amp service without any problems. How he managed this is beyond me!

Bob

[SuperDad]

I don't know if the city would get involved in a second power drop for your garage. It would seem that it should be between you and the power company. I think the problem would be that the power company and electrician would charge LOTS of money to do the task. I'd guess at $1000 in service fees. I've never had it done myself, so check with your power company and electrician before ruling it out.

My pool/garage subpanel(30A/240v) is about 70 feet from my main panel(200A), and the run is made with 10/3, which I suspect is almost too small. I believe a professional installed it, so it was probably in-code in 1990 when the pool went in. The previous owner was definitely not handy.

I'm not sure I'd do the job myself. I think I'd talk with an electrician about what I could save if I ran the wire myself and let him do the connecting. I'm still not real at ease inside power panels, and probably don't know half the code I should to be running a new one.

[MorePowerMatt]

>Your larger cabinet shops run equipment that uses three
>phase power, three phase motors are generally cheaper to buy
>or replace than single phase and seem to last longer. You
>usually cant run three phase equipment at home unless you
>use a converter.


I'm pretty sure it's the other way around. You don't usually send a single-phase motor out for repair. The larger 3-phase motors can be very expensive, however, they can be repaired relatively cost-effectively. The motor's lifespan depends largely on type of use and environment.

I have not yet seen here any comments about electrical usage (bills). I mean, in some families, the person who pays the electric bill screams whenever someone turns on the dryer. In a dryer, only the heaters are 220V. The motor is 120V. Maybe utility costs are something for you to consider before you invest in 220V machinery.

I know that in 3-phase applications, motors with higher voltages will draw less current than motors with the same hp at lower voltages. I'm not sure offhand about single-phase. (Running Ohm's Law in my head....) Oh well, Joe, it's really up to you how you want to power your shop.

Matt

Ohm, Ohm, Ohm on the Range...

[wbednarz]

When I moved into my old home it didn't have any 220 lines and it only has 100 amp service. We have a 2 story colonial with 3 small bedrooms. We don't have central air. I had to put in a 22,000 BTU AC unit on the first floor, and I believe that just about anything over 16k BTU required 220. I went to the library and picked up a B&D House Electricity book. I then opened up the main panel and familiarized myself with the inner workings of it (didn't touch a thing yet). I started to realize that adding 220 lines were not difficult. I put in the 220 line myself. It is pretty easy as long as you take the necessary precautions and it is also a good idea to have someone else present.

I run my table saw, jointer, shaper and ac on the same line. I have never blown the fuse even with the AC all the way up and ripping 8/4 oak at the same time.

[JohnV]

If anyone is keeping track I built my garage from scratch and did the wiring myself. I have the cabinet saw and my 15" planer that are 220 machines only and I converted my DC to 220V. I can convert my BS, small shaper and 6" jointer to 220V if I choose to. Don't know if and when I will but I don't really expect any real difference when I do.
Unless you are a long way from your breaker box there is very little difference in power if the 110v is wired correctly. I read this great article about the subtle differences and advantages of being 220v over 110v and believe me its subtle although real. I'd be happy to try and summarize it if anyone is interested. :D
John

www.craftsman-furniture.com
Living in "The Sportsman's Paradise".

[Steven Wilson]

I started with two 20A 110V circuits for running the tools in my shop (i.e. one for the dust collector or compressor, the other for the tool). I then added a 220V 20A circuit to run my table saw (Powermatic 66). This year I added a 55A sub-panel and moved my 20A table saw circuit to it, and added another 20A circuit (lathe mainly), and a 30A circuit (5hp bandsaw). I hired an electrician to install the sub-panel (I watched, he taught me, money well spent), and then ran the branch circuits myself. Life really begins with 3hp - and that needs 220V; so start wiring!