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View Full Version : Blind RabbEts on a Table Saw?



mosthumbleone
07-14-2004, 01:53 PM
Can you cut blind rabbEts (not sure that is what you call them...rabbEts that stop before you get to the end of the board, both ends) on a table saw? How would you finish the stopped cut?

Tom Hintz
07-14-2004, 02:13 PM
You stop pushing the mateiral through whre you want the rabbet (or dado) to stop, shut the saw off and wait for it to stop before lifting the wood off. Then you use a chisel and mallet to square up the end of the groove.

Cody Colston
07-14-2004, 02:19 PM
I reckon you could cut blind rabbIts on the tablesaw, but it would get pretty messy, not to mention the cruelty factor with the little critters being blind and all.

Sorry, I couldn't resist that one. :)

Yes, I expect you could cut stopped rabbEts on a tablesaw and then finish it with a sharp chisel, but a router is a better tool if you have one. You would have much less work to square the stopped rabbet and could even leave it rounded, depending on the application.

Cody


An amateur built the Ark
PROFESSIONALS built the Titanic

mosthumbleone
07-14-2004, 02:31 PM
DOH! Spelling Nazi got me....rabbEts it is.

Sawduster
07-14-2004, 05:03 PM
Actually it's "rebates", but us 'Mericans b@stardized the English language when it comes to lots of woodworking terms. Rabbets will, however do and even "rabbits" generally gets the point across. ;)

RudeDog
07-14-2004, 09:39 PM
Well, I just (successfully) cut blind rabbets on my table saw. But I'm not saying it's a safe way - I just got lucky (and still have all my fingers). I was cutting a rabbet on the back of a mirror frame and was going to square and finish the ends on the rabbet with a chisel. But I realized that I could just cut the rabbet a 1/2 inch long and it would not matter - so I did. That also gave me leeway in where to start and stop the rabbet. BTW, I started the rabbet by lowering the board on the running balde at the approximate starting point on the board - like I said probably not safe but it worked.

TDHofstetter
07-14-2004, 10:59 PM
If what you're doing is fairly short, you can set up stop blocks at measured distances from the dado head, too, to get positive "starts" and "stops" right where you want 'em.

If your work is long, you may be able to clamp a hunk of plywood down to the saw's top and do the same thing... with the dado head peeking up through a zero-clearance slot in the plywood.

All that said, a router IS the easier way to cut stopped slots & dados & rabbets... and you can use either a conventional chisel or a "corner chisel" to square up the ends.

I've actually GOT a corner chisel (bought it at a deep sale price) but haven't used it yet. I'll probably want to polish the edge before it gets used the first time, anyway...

-- Tim --




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Know return.

Sawduster
07-15-2004, 07:34 AM
If there is room at the end of the stopped cut I will use my blade center mark on the throat plate to make a corresponding mark on a piece of masking tape attached to the rip fence and use that mark to index to marks on the workpiece to plunge the running blade into the piece, slide it so that the other mark on the workpiece is aligned with the blade center mark on the fence.

Otherwise, I will raise the blade to the needed height, mark the tape on the fence at the points where the blade first protrudes from the throat plate and use those marks as the starting and stopping points for the stopped cuts on the workpiece. Then square the ramped ends with a chisel.

Or I'll use my stair saw and old woman's tooth to do it by hand.

mosthumbleone
07-15-2004, 11:37 AM
I don't have a dado blade yet so that would have been 2 cuts for each blind rabbet so I decided to just go ahead and get a router to finish this project because I will need to trim some laminate anyway. As usual, thanks for all the advice.

RudeDog
07-15-2004, 04:57 PM
See, if you about it long enough you can always find a reason to get a new tool :) Good luck with your new router - you'll find many good uses for it.

Sonny Edmonds
07-15-2004, 08:34 PM
..he didn't say live blind rabbits.
But I concur that it would be messy.
Not to mention you'd want a good DC system for that fur when it went to flying.

I think I'd use the band saw. And freeze the rabbits first. }>

:D

[link:www.sonnyedmonds.com | Sonny Edmonds] http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/vortex_smiley.gif
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
One Nation Under God!

The real problem is the fool behind the tool. :o*
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TDHofstetter
07-15-2004, 10:28 PM
Ya know... that's a good idea, freezing the rabbits first. MUCH less mess that way. :)

Freeze blind rabbits,
Freeze blind rabbits,
See how they saw,
See how they saw...

This is too much fun. I feel like a KID again... a head-dead li'l kid... :) :) :)

-- Tim --




Woodworking.com...
Know deposit,
Know return.

JDsharp
07-15-2004, 10:41 PM
Tim, you've sparked the kid in all of us...frozen rabbits...

jd

Sonny Edmonds
07-16-2004, 01:46 AM
ROTFLMAO!
:7 :7 :7 :7 :7 :7
Carry the lyrics on, Tim! :7

:D

[link:www.sonnyedmonds.com | Sonny Edmonds] http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/vortex_smiley.gif
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
One Nation Under God!

The real problem is the fool behind the tool. :o*
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/gif_files/dumfart.jpg

dicklaxt
07-17-2004, 01:42 PM
I have never tried that before as I have always used a router,,,,

If I were intent on doing that tho I would mark stop and start witness marks on my fence ,also mark a witness mark ( or drill a screw stop hole,many options here your choice, a sliding stop attached to base to be used for future rabbet depths))on saw base at the lower & the raise blade handle with a mark as well. This would represent the blade height above the table which would represent the depth of rabbet. Clamp the stock to the table at the starting point,start the saw and slowly raise the blade to the height marked ,lower the blade and then shut off,then remove the clamp from the stock, hold stock firmly in place,start the blade turning , a helper would be nice here to start the blade so you can hold the stock firmly in place,raise the blade slowly to desired depth and push stock slowly to the finish witness mark.
Stop blade and hold stock until blade stops,Keep your self clear of the kickback line of fire, this should work. It is often done by a similiar method with a router bit and table. Holler if you see a saftey issue or I have skipped a step.

Be careful and stay safe

A router and straight edge is faster and safer

Think and second thoughts ?????????

dick

mosthumbleone
07-17-2004, 03:52 PM
Cut the rabbets with the new router. The right tool for the job is a beautiful thing.

dicklaxt
07-17-2004, 04:01 PM
Good show ,you are so right

dick