runners for non-standard miter gauges

[209dave]

i apologize if i missed a thread where this was discussed, but i wondered if any of you guys and gals had (tips for / success in) making runners for non-standard miter gauge slots found on various benchtop table saws.

is the approach the same as it would be for standard slots? any advice?

thanks!

[jwstine]

I have standard slots but I don't see why the process would be any different. Measure your slots, cut your runners to size and slide them in to make sure they fit. viola!

Stine

[Sonny Edmonds]

I used to have a 1940's era Craftsman TS and it had just slightly smaller than norm miter slots, and pre-T slot.
I just planed down some 3/4 oak to fit the slot nicely, and ripped off several miter slot runners from that piece for sleds and stuff.
You don't have to have the wings for the T slots, but those can be made with thin washers as well. Look at fender washers and "adjust" them to fit your slot. ;)
Wax the peedootley out of your new miter slot runner stock for slickness. :)

:D

[link:home.att.net/~paul.edmonds/|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
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[rblusthaus]

I use that white plastic UVMH or some such initilas like that. I get the stuff in 3 foot long, by 4 or 6 inch wide by 1/4 inch thick from Lee Valley. It takes screws, countersunk, and slides on/in everything.

[Scooter B]

Good question! (Actually you beat me to it):D

I have a Delta Contractors saw and is smaller than standard.

I found out after buying some Bench Dog brand orange feather boards with T slots that don't fit.

While I have contemplated making some runners out of oak the slick plastic sounds more useful for some applications.

What I still don't understand is how the runners work for non sled (non sliding applications) such as being able to attach my feather boards to lock into the miter slot.

The saw came with an aluminium runner "miter gauge" with the small black 1/2 circle and face that can be turned from 90 degrees to 0 degrees but it is so small it's practically worthless for anything other than trying to keep 90 degree cuts square with the fence.

I seem to need more visual illustrations on how something works than just text so if you have a link showing how to use a homemade runner with various jigs and sleds that would be great. I'm sure there are 1,000's of ways to use these but I just need a basic starter understanding for now.

[TDHofstetter]

Real quick-like...

The use of miter-slot runners for things like featherboards is simpler than it may seem. The miter slot isn't used as a "sliding" slot in such a case, it's used only for positioning. There's no other really great way to lock something like a featherboard to the flat top of the saw - no through holes, nothing to clamp to.

So - you attach an adjustable featherboard to a miter slot runner, then lock the runner in place at the appropriate place in the slot.

Locking is usually accomplished by forcing the runner to spread in the slot until it binds on both sides... or by turning a little cam to accomplish the same thing.

-- Tim --



Veni, vidi, vici
I came, I saw, I hammered.

:)

[BobMeister]

It's very odd that you say your Delta contractor's saw has non-standard miters. I have a Delta contractor saw, and mine are standard. I thought Delta were the ones that made that size the "standard"! (I could be mistaken on that, however). And my miter guage is fairly beefy and adequate. Perhaps your have a benchtop model, rather than a contractor model...?

[slaphitter]

I have a Craftsman benchtop table saw. It's a pretty elaborate saw, with generous extendible wings and decent power. It's still got most of the limitations of a benchtop saw, but it's served its purpose so far.

Personally, I've given up on the miter slots. For angled crosscuts, I use a miter saw. For square crosscuts on boards that are too wide for my miter saw, I have built a crosscut sled. Rather than running it in the miter slots, I put rails under the sled that hug the outside edges of the table itself. It tracks perfectly square and works like a charm.

[Scooter B]

>It's very odd that you say your Delta contractor's saw has
>non-standard miters. I have a Delta contractor saw, and
>mine are standard. I thought Delta were the ones that made
>that size the "standard"! (I could be mistaken on that,
>however). And my miter guage is fairly beefy and adequate.
>Perhaps your have a benchtop model, rather than a contractor
>model...?

Well it came with legs so I would assume it is not a bench top model but I could be wrong.

I do know standard T nuts are too big for the miter slots however.

It has an aluminum top and is fairly light (In fact it is currently stacked on top of my router table so I can get my car in the garage)and cost $99 at Lowes. Nothing elaborate and no extendable wings.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Like Timmerman said, and....

I have some older featherboards I bought for their clamping system.
What it amounts to is an aluminum bar about 4" long X 3/4"w X 3/8"h, with a narrow slot (blind) machined lengthwise in the middle, and (here's the cinch) a plough bolt countersunk into the slot.
This arrangement allows the bar to slip down into the miter slot instead of sliding in from one end or the tuther. When the oversized wing nut and fender washer is tightened down on the featherboard, the tension causes the plough bolt to spread the aluminum bar and it wedges itself in the miter slot, locking the whole works to the table.

[link:woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1651 | Exactly like this.]
The aluminum bar can be draw filed to fit your sub-standard slot and there you go.
(I would be leary about tightening these to tightly and botching up your abloominum slot.)

:D

[link:home.att.net/~paul.edmonds/|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
One Nation Under God!
"Lurkimus turdius orifus"

Welcome to the Forum!
http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/15/15_4_125.gif

[wlantry]

Get some UHMW plastic. Cut it so it's exactly a tad less tall than the slot, and a tad less wide. Predrill and precountersink some holes in it. When you attach it to the disassembled mitre gauge with screws, it will expand just a little, and you can get a good sliding fit...

Thanks,

Bill

[BobMeister]

Contractor saws usually have a motor that hangs out the back of the saw with a belt drive to the blade, are too heavy to lift easily, and typically cost around $500 on up.

If yours is fairly light, with non-standard miter guages, and was $99, it is almost certainly a bench top model.

[hcbph]

I have an Emerson built Craftsman Contractors Saw, and I needed a couple of special guides because the miter slot is less than 3/4". I found that at one time Incra sold a replacement bar for some of their stuff that fit my saw. I bought a couple of those replacement bars and used them on some jigs. Not too expensive and works well.

Paul