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I just bought a delta 10in contractor's saw and I'm having a hard time putting the cast iron extension wing onto the table saw. I can not get it to be level with the table saw. When I tighten the screws the table moves. Is it normal for the extension table to be slightly off. If so how much is acceptable.
Any hints or tips would be appreciated.
02-18-2001, 02:29 AM
Have you tried clamping it before you tighten the bolts?
I have used C clamps to hold the extension flush with the top and then tighten the bolts. Put the clamps on the top to bottom. If you have some angle iron or flat bar stock you can use it as a "pad" and draw the top of the two flush to each other.
You want the wings to be flush with the tables top, not lower, not higher.
Make sure you do not have the wings crossed up. I.E. right on left, if there's a difference.
You may need to put a washer on the bolts to stop them from "walking" the iron as the final torque is applied.
Properly set-up everything across the top of the saw should be flat.
Hope this helps.
I had the same problem. I went to mennards and got some brass shimstock and put it above the bolts if the table slants and below to raise the end. On the right side I am going to take the metal one off and make a table 27 by 30 of MDF or MDO or maybe 3/4 in plywood and face it with laminate. Hope this helps. This is a great place to get help.
02-21-2001, 03:44 PM
I Bought the same Saw...Although I had no trouble setting up the extension, I dissappointed with the accuracy to the ripfence to square, as well as the accuracy of the Mitre guage and the tilt Blade angle. I realize that this is a 'git what ya pay for' issue. Any tips on how I can make up for my cheapness with ingenuity?
02-21-2001, 03:57 PM
First question, did you go through and setup the saw and check all of the angle settings like it says to in your manual? All tools may leave the factory set correctly (some do) but, by the time it has been banged around by a few fork lifts and truck drivers who knows anymore.
By your self a dial indicator for about 20.00 and mount it to a piece of wood that just fits into the miter slot. Use this to align everything to the slot. Check the bevel angles on the blade with a drafting triangle and set your stops.
The basic fence that comes with most contractor saws is not the best, but if setup and adjusted correctly will do for a while. You will find much better fences in the aftermarket. They range from a low of about 250 to over 400. The one I like and recommend is the Biesemeyer.
The miter gauge is also something most of us replace. You can get much better results with a cross cut sled that is made out of a piece of plywood, and a small rail that fits into the miter slot.