PDA

View Full Version : A couple of book reviews (long post)



nay
07-28-2006, 11:46 AM
I'm starting my workbench soon and I've been doing research so I thought I'd give a couple of book reviews. But first, the background. After my first project I realized that the 2 peices of 1"x12"x4' screwed to the 2 foldup sawhorses from HF wasn't going to cut it. So I've decided to tackle a workbench. I did some research in the forums here and around the net. I found quite a few plans for workbenches but nothing that in depth on the "theory" of workbenches. I'm not sure if it was in the forums here (probably) or elsewhere but I found 2 books referenced as the best resources if you want to build a workbench.

The Workbench: A Complete Guide to Creating Your Perfect Bench
ISBN: 1561585947

The Workbench Book: A Craftsman's Guide to Workbenches for Every Type of Woodworking
ISBN: 1561582700

First, "The Workbench". This book was a great resource for different types of workbenches and different construction techniques. It doesn't tell you how to build a workbench, step by step. It does, however, describe the different parts of a workbench, and why you may want a regular front vise vs. a pattern makers vise. Very good info. Here's a short list of some of the things I took away from the book.

- The benefits and drawbcks from different types of bench tops
- Wood choices
- Solid slab vs. laminated (this actually changed my bench design)
- glue up/clampign techniques
- The benifits and drawbacks of different jointery for the base
- through bolts
- mortis and tenons

The book shows many different styles of benches from English to Shaker and gives descriptions of their construction and how the owner's use them.

"The Workbench Book". I've not made it completely through this book yet, but I already love it. The author starts with a brief history of workbenches. It's an extremely interesting read. Everything from the "Japanese foot vise" to modern benches. I've only skimmed the actual construction sections of the book but it is exteremly detailed. There's much more construction detail in the is book compared to "The Workbench". When I completely finish the book I'll give a more thorough review, but for the price $15.72 at amazon, I feel I can safely recommend it. The history alone was worth ~$16 to me.

One of the main things I've taken away from these books and the research on the net is that I don't need to download a workbench plan. With the information that I've already gleaned from my research I've started designing my own workbench, everything from dimensnions to hardware.

I recommend both books for anyone wanting to build their own bench. I'm sure even experienced woodworkers could benefit from both. And as books go they're relatively cheap.

I'm going to start with a simple bench. Laminated hard maple top 3"x30"x60". And a simple wedged mortis and tenon base (price will decide the wood used). A simple front vise to begin with, and a tail vise later if needed. I'm planning on attempting 1 row of square dog holes spaced every 6". I'd be interested to hear comments from you guys on my simple bench plan. Thanks.

newbie,
nay

beamerweb
07-28-2006, 02:54 PM
Thanks for that, Nay!

I loved The Workbench Book myself. I took away a lot of the same info that you have, too. I won't be building from a plan when I do my bench, either. The bench is such a personal tool that it's really too subjective to take from stock plans and end up with something that fits perfectly. You'll get great results from those plans, but the best bench is one that is suited perfectly to you, i feel.

As for your "simple" bench plans. It sounds about perfect to me. 3" thick is NICE and thick for the entire surface. Many commercial ones aren't even that thick all the way across. That should hold up really well. Dog holes are a strange animal i've learned. Some say square, some say round. Personally, I think round might be a little more versatile in that a not-perfectly-square piece could go in without fear of denting it with the corner of a square dog. My other reasoning is that round hols are easier to make! And most of the holdfasts i've seen are made for round holes. I have become a believer in the holdfast, they are the most efficient workholding method in most cases.

I can't wait to see pics of your completed bench! Maybe it'll inspire me to finally get mine done, too! :P

nay
07-28-2006, 03:16 PM
Thanks Jason!

There's a rumor that a private saw mill owner around these parts has good deals on domestic lumber. I've been trying to find him for a few weeks now. "They" say he posts his info in the local paper every now and then, but I haven't found it yet. As soon as I find him though I'll get my lumber! The only other place close enough that I've found is pretty expensive. I plan on documenting my workbench experience. I'll post it in the completed projects when I'm through. I'm expecting it to take a couple of months to complete, if not more.

Hmm... good points about the dog holes. The reason I was looking at square was that they were supposed to "hold" better. To be honest I'd kind of like the challenge of cutting the square ones :)

dbriski
07-28-2006, 04:18 PM
Along the same lines of the Dog Holes. I have round ones on mine. But one thing I would change is having 2 rows instead of 1 row. With the square dogs it might not be necessary, but I find with 2 dog you can hold flat edge things a lot more stable and with less pressure. What I ended up doing was putting a 3/4" wooden face on my vice and drilled 2 holes (1/2" or 5/8" dont' remember which) where I could put two dowles in in to use as bench dogs on the vice side instead of using the metal rectagular on that came on my vice. It holds much better but I would have still prefered two in the bench too.

David

beagles
07-28-2006, 05:47 PM
Cutting square bench dog holes:

As I was laminating my bench top, I reserved a 8/4 board for that purpose. I made a simple jig to let me rout those "holes" in the side of that board. Once in the top and glued to the adjacent board, I had rectangular holes.

You can also take a thinner board and glue inserts to it at appropriate places and achieve the same result. The advantage of my approach was that I started with a jointed and planed board so I did not have to worry about the thickness of the glue-up

JUST REMEMBER that the holes need a slight incline in the correct direction, so think carefully!!!

nay
07-28-2006, 11:45 PM
Around 5 degrees is the magic number that "The Workbench" book recommended or the incline in dog holes :)