Pictures are finally ready

[volleyheads]

In the spirit of this forum, I have been working with a friend who has guided me along the path of posting a very informal page of pictures of some of the bowls I have made so far. This was the first pictures attempted with a new set up so they are sometimes a little lacking. I will repost when the next set is ready. So without further ado...

This is the first bowl I made (actually this was the first time I had ever stood before a lathe that was plugged in.) It is made of dried cherry from a 10/4 board and is about 5 1/2" in diameter, wall thickness about 1/4". This bowl was made while taking a course at Woodcraft as a Fathers day gift.

[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/bill9.jpg]

The next shot is of the second attempted bowl. This time the wood was sycamore and was partially dry, but green wood. For some reason I really like this bowl, even though I haven't ever finished the foot, all I did was hold it next to a disc sander. (Don't take notes on these methods, most of this would fall under the "before" category of turning) Dimensions are about 6" in diameter and about 4" high. Wall thickness a beefy 1/2"
[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/billa.jpg]

On the same day, I gave a run at some freshly cut poplar. I turned it relatively thin, for me back then, and let nature do its work. (yes it did start off round) The diameter is about 8" and the height is up to about 4". Wall thickness about 1/4". Any questions regarding drying stress or uneven shrinkage should be cleared up with this one. ;)

[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/bill7.jpg]

The next bowl came after blowing up several more. It was a blank of dried purple heart and is about 5 1/2" in diameter and 3+" tall. It was turned on a faceplate and that is why the bottom is so chunky. Purpleheart is a very hard wood and it takes a lot of sharpening to get a good finish from it, but it does make a pretty piece. I would love to try some green and see how it turns.

[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/bill5.jpg]
[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/bill6.jpg]

The next bowl is a piece of highly spalted, wormy, curly maple. It was fun to turn, the worm holes and spalting is so evident that in certain areas, you can actually see through the piece. Vital dimensions, 10" diameter, 2 1/2" high and 1/4" wall thickness. My first real attempt at finishing a bowl, bottom and all.

[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/bill2.jpg]
[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/bill3.jpg]
[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/bill4.jpg]

The final piece for this posting (big hurray from the crowd) is a piece that I finished while taking a course with an excellent turner who really likes turning open segmented pieces. With his guidance and tips, pieces like this are surprisingly easy to pull off. This piece goes down as a first for me in segmented turning, as well as the first attempt at a hollow form. The woods are maple and walnut. The piece is about 4" high and 4" in diameter, with a top opening of about 2". It was a nice easy form to start on for a hollow form. Still a long way to go to get to be good at those.

[http://www.agsprint.com/bill/bill1.jpg]

Well there is a few of the pieces that turned out ok. Lots have hit the trash bin, (or been pilfered by my mother). Just a point of reference for all out there. Lots of room for improvement. Feel free to critique that as harshly as they deserve. I am really interested in any feedback of likes or of dislikes for any of them. It would be a great source of information and possibly discussion from some unbiased friends. Fire when ready!

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

[WoodMangler]

Great stuff Bill...

one suggestion... cut the size of the pics down to below 600 pixels so they don't take so long to load and don't make the scroll go sideways...

Keep em coming!!

[Lou_williams]

Bill,

I love your work. All of my early stuff is on spindles and is not fit for publication. I have used it as pratice on using each tool not of making anything useful. I will have to try to turn a bowl so that it might have a use other than shavings.

But it will be a few months. Lots of stuff in the pipe before fun stuff can happen.

[carl civi]

bill,on the open bowl,how do keep from catching the cutting tool.
I`m getting ready to make another lamination,i seem to be going in that direction.This will be my 2nd one,let see if i can keep to my planned diameter.Your work looks great,some day when you get famous
i can say ,"I know him"Thanks for all your posts, they have been very helpfull. Regards Carl

[volleyheads]

Greetings to all,

I appreciate the kind words. Famous, a long, long way off. Although, I am willing to put in the effort, so who knows, maybe someday. The turners I look up to have work they don't even show that is a hundred times better than any of those. The points I was going for would be to show a (slow) progression of one turner (me). The other would be to illicit impressions or feelings or criticisms and comments on any of the pieces. It would be of much more value to hear from an unbiased observer than to ask my bride or baby boy, besides he would just say dadadada (14 1/2 months old and fun)

As far as avoiding catches on the openings, they really won't happen unless you really push into the wood. Take easy, smooth cuts and it really is a breeze, no end grain tear out or fuzziness etc. Give it a try, it is pretty simple. Let me know if I can be of any more help

PS Sorry they are so big, they didn't seem to be on the page. I'll see what I can do about it, but it won't let me edit them right now. Still learning about these picture postings and webpages as well.

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

[volleyheads]

Sonny,

I did not mean to leave you hanging, but to address two of your items from the previous post...

As far as your worm eaten oak, that sounds like a great piece of wood. Some of the best pieces are from "logs" that don't look fit for even the fireplace. Best of luck with it. Looking forward to seeing the results, either way. Learning can only be done by attempting to do what pushes your limits.

For the handling of cracks, I was curious what your plans or thoughts on handling them in that one pice were. I did not want to cloud your creative mind with what I do or what I had heard or seen others do, I just wanted to start a thread regarding it and see if we could come up with some ideas.

But let me start this off. You could either incorporate the crack into the final design, highlight it somehow, maybe impregnate it with black epoxy, or clear epoxy or fill the epoxy with bits of metallic dust or crushed turquoise (look at Inlace products in turning catalogues and websites). If the piece is sturdy enough to survive turning with the crack you could leave it open and see how it looks. If the "natural" crack isn't what you wish, you could burn the edges or carve it out and form a more artsy cut out. There are tons of ways to go and many, many more I didn't bring up. Some would fill it with molten pewter etc. Just trying to get the old creative juices flowing and see what we can come up with. Anyone, anyone...

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

[volleyheads]

Lou,

Looking forward to seeing the fruits of your efforts. With my little boy around, I try to get a finished piece every chance I get to go out to the lathe, which are fewer and farther between than I would like. It would be better to do as you are doing and go through some practice drills to learn better skills, but my time doesn't allow it right now. Instead what I have been doing is taking classes whenever the opportunity arises, going to woodturning meetings and talking with people who can really turn, and watching some really good videos showing technique and projects from some great turners. If you are still aimed more towards you spindle project, Richard Raffan has a book and video combination that is aimed at both spindle and faceplate turning. It also has practice drills in the book and video to sharpen your skills. You may want to give it a try, especially the video to get better much faster than going it alone. For bowl turning, I am working through a large list of videos, some have been really great and others, somewhat dated in there techniques, but all are helpful. Best use of a TV I can find.

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

[Lou_williams]

Sonny,

I am very glad you posted that picture. Now I don't feel quite so inadiquite, I have nothing but shavings and a couple of wierd looking cyclindars to show for my lathe. I am learning to turn spindals and it is very hard to do without a major catch. Skew's are a real pain in the rear. I keep trying because everyone tells me that mastering it makes all worthwhile. I am not so sure.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Laff and learn. :7
Had it been important the lesson hammer might have been called for.
But I'm still getting a hold on Limey's advice, "Let your bevel rub."
I was playing with that thought yesterday on some obscure chunk of firewood from the pile that is green.
Them gouges can be a might tricky. The ones I have are at times.
I'm a bootstraps kinda guy, so I blindly go where no other fool would go. Turning with the wrong tools, playing with wizz-banger speeds and generally farting around.
That goblet was/is, cracked in several places. The wood was to begin with.
But one night in the house and, what I was pretty sure was dryed out oak fire wood, well...it just blossemed right out with that big 'ol crack. Wa-zoo!
It was the dangedest thang Ya ever did see! Yepper!

Maybe if you have a scrap of oak or something a bit harder to try? Or try different speeds. I donno mind you.
But I have been working with some pretty odd and course stock to start off with. At 500 RPM.
Once it gets round and I'm down to wood I try and watch the side of the stock coming at the tool from above and watch its shape changing as curls and such are pealing away (and all over both hands/arms/belly/chest and everywhere else :o )
When things seem to be balanced, up goes the speed two jumps of the pulleys to 1200 or 1800 RPM. And more carving away.
Now as I go up into those higher speeds, I get buried faster in shavings of course.
I would think that with spindels you could get into the faster speeds sooner because of the smaller diameter to start with.
But I can say from my limited experiance, things seem to get a lot smoother up there. The shavings seem to pour off the tool and you get a feel for the angle.
Also I tend to run my rest at the center line of the stock between the centers, not a 1/4" high like my book sez to do. But I'm still experimenting and learning. I just go by feel and performance of shaving production and what I see the wood doing.
I get some catches of course. Hell, I've had pieces get bucked right off the lathe, but I try my best to get a smooth run where I'm cutting.

The bigger tools I bought the other day had a real agressive (or low)angle to them, maybe 30-45 degrees. I put a nice (I thought) steeper angle on the cutting edge right off, Like maybe 60 degrees. So when you look at the cutting bevel it looks like a finger nail. The factory angle being the main part of your fingernail and a steeper (approching a 90 degree) out at the cutting edge.
Maybe pick up some 2 x 2" cheap stock to play with like doug fir or just crap and then spin it up and focus on getting a smooth cutting action from your tools.
Or maybe some pealer posts. If you can find some untreated and cut some pieces a foot or 16" long so you start off relitively round.

There is the option of one of those lathe duplicators that follows a pattern board. But they cost a bunch, I think. One I saw was around 600 bucks if I remember right.
But everytime I see one in a catalog, I think of you and 100 spindals.
That's 6 bucks a spindal added cost. But they would be uniform and you'd have a nice accessory for your lathe after the fact.

Otherwise all I can say is practice. Maybe pick up some cheap chisels you don't mind trying different angles on until you hit on one that suits you personally for the way you hold the tool.
Not everything is "by the book", for you it may be a little different than that. To suit your height, lathe height, comfort zone, holding angle, tool rest height, speed of stock,...... etc.

Lots of variables. And then.... the stupid stock cracks over night. Oy Vey!

Give yourself time to get the hang of it. Rome wasn't built in a day. It took 2 days. :7

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

[Limey]

Hey Bill,
Nice progress, a lot better than my first attempts AND I chose some less challenging woods, certainly not Purplefart.
I liked the spalted bowl and you can definitely see refinement in the design.
I keep telling myself to do a segmented turning but all the time in stock preparation gets me impatient.
Are there any quick tricks you can pass on.?
BTW keep the links coming.

Cheers limey

[Limey]

Lou,
Tell us a little more about the skew you are using?
I have just about got the hang of it but have to really concentrate when turning a bead with one. Confidence and a deliberate roll seems to be favourite.
Otherwise as I think I have previously mentioned I do find the 3/4 " oval skew is a darn sight easy to use. I tend to let it rub high on the work piece and angle the skew at 45 degrees to the work rather than attack from the oftimes book quoted "handle down at 45 degrees with the blade parallel" .
I also found that a much more acute angle of the two sides than the grind set when I bought my first skew was easier to use,again despite the advice given in a turning book. It's interesting because when I bought the oval some time later it had the same grind I had adopted.
I'll never know if it was because I adapted my technique or it is easier to master. Obviously the edge is a lot finer and needs more frequent retouching.... I have a small belt sander set up to do this with a fine belt (because it's so worn and I refuse to buy a new one he he )
I can use it to plane cylinders with confidence and this is what I would urge you to try so that you gain confidence in this nemesis called a skew.!! i.e don't try to master all of it's capabilities at once
Like riding a two wheel bicycle it seems impossible at first but gradually it becomes commonplace, however there is always the drain cover or the spilled oil lurking ready to up end you.
Have fun .oooh I'll mention it again ...make sure your tool rest is smooth with no deep nicks any hesitation can tilt the blade so that it digs in and Bam.

Cheers limey

[Keystone]

I've been watching this folder since it started. It's a good thing I do not have room for a lathe! That is some wonderful work for sure! Love the spated bowl!

(I'm sure if I had room for a lathe, I'd be sucked in like the rest of ya!)

[Sonny Edmonds]

Uh, Uh, honey. That's not a valid excuse.
Sorry to pop that bubble.
You could get a Midi Lathe and set it on a bench and bolt, screw, or clamp it in place.
Then set it away and aside when you don't want to turn.

That's what I'm doin.

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

[SteveF]

If you're having trouble learning to master the skew don't feel bad, you're not alone. Check out this URL and you will have a better understanding of how the skew chisel came about and why it is so hard to master.

http://home.vicnet.net.au/~pwguild/skew_mw.htm

Steve

[SteveF]

Sonny, did that crack develop as the goblet dried or was it self-inflicted? Most of what I have been playing with has been with dry stock but I'm just beginning to turn green wood. I've had a couple of pieces crack as they dried - obviously from drying too fast. I have been reading a number of different sources about drying both rough and finished pieces in the microwave but LOML won't let me use the microwave for that purpose. I suppose I'll have to buy a cheap one next payday...


Steve

[SteveF]

Nice work, Bill. I especially like your spalted maple dish. What sort of finish are you using on your bowls?

Segmented turning intrigues me. Someone did a demo at our local turner's guild last month that got me pretty excited.

The trouble with being a new turner is that the more you learn the less you discover you know. There just doesn't seem to be enough shop time to try everything you want...

Steve

[volleyheads]

Limey and everyone,

I am trying to put together a little summary of how to go about doing these. Making the segmented turnings is really a lot faster than I thought. It only took about 1-1 1/2 hours to make the one picured above. Not a lot of time and really easy to do, right on the lathe.

As far as a how to, it will take a little time, I have two more jigs about half made and then I can start with writing it up and getting some pictures together. I will try to find a link that is around here that has a pretty good write up as well. I should have it all ready soon and will post it as fast as possible.

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

[Sonny Edmonds]

I'll be watching for it Bill.
Sounds great!

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

[Lou_williams]

I am still laughing. That was the best link I have gone to in years. Only a turner could understand how very true it is.

I will start my attempt to master that beast as soon as the kitchen is done.

Thanks again.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Steve,
Great link about the skew. RLOL!
The goblet was an experiment and but only my second turning attempt.
I saw this piece of firewood that had these bumps on it and my minds eye suspected something underneith with some sort of figure to it.
The bumps each had some cracks to them as did the ends.
I didn't care, it was playtime.
Well, long story short it wound up with 3 cracks from natural causes.
And that really pronounced one widened overnight to that huge gash.
The piece is oak and seemed to be pretty dry. But it really only had about 10 minutes to acclamate to the shop's humidity. Maybe too fast on my part?? :)
I would say it was due to additional drying and the natural crack there finding a great deal of relife without the rest of the log holding it back. So it went Ahhhh and spread itself wide open.
That, or it really doesn't like being indoors.
I suppose that if I were a bump on a log I might not take to kindly to somebody cutting me into such abominable shapes. And might show my distaste in a manner of cracking or even jumping off the lathe as this one did a couple of times.
Bit the cracks got there before I did. I just made their home prettier. Adds a whole new diamention to "precision firewood", don'tcha think?

I really don't know what the hell I am doing, but I am having fun at it. :)

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

[Keystone]

Stop that Sonny! I'm still trying to convince myself!

[volleyheads]

Finishes I tend to like to use are widely varied. Among others would include waterlox, Woodcraft's Urethane oil, BLO/Watco/Mineral spirits, or danish oil. Nothing fancy yet.

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

[Chris Moore]

Wow! I'm so impressed I may even say it backwards.. !woW

Very impressive. I especially like the purpleheart bowl.

Chris Moore
Montgomery, AL

"... and remember, there is no more important safety rule than to wear these - safety glasses."

[Sonny Edmonds]

...That REALLY sucks big time!

Here you go and post these beautiful works of art you have done, and you haven't said how one goes about a segmented bowl or vessel or form or whatever the heck it's called.
You eluded to cracks, and what to do, but left out the most important part, how to address them. :(

This is my school and books are not to be cracked unless they contain ads of equipment to pause upon whilst I am in my thinking room and they beat stareing at the grout or towels hanging on the rack.

Of it all, I must say I am impressed deeply. And I find myself yearning for the spinning wood and flying curls over making wood square and stark, yet beautiful. But that I must do, to finish from where I started.
All the while, the lathe sits and becons me. A silent sentinal teasing me to turn some wood.

And I butcherd a log today for it's core value. A highly worm eaten oak limb that to most others would yeild a look of distaste. But yet to me holds promise.
Not for vessel's, but for a last chance at a wood art. Turned wood art.
Whereas a segmented bowl with it's array of finely crafted pieces turned into a finely delicate form of airy beauty.
I see within the tortured and harmed remaining wood of these chunks the possibility that this limb did not live and die in vain. Not to be distroyed into mulch or burned for fuel, before it gets at least a last reprive on the lathes workings.
Possibly it will blow up, because it is very weak. But if one of the eight chunks makes it to a decorative state, I'll be happy.
If none do, I will have tried.

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

[Sonny Edmonds]

Keep taking me in stride Bill.

Below is day 2 of said gobblet. Since I consider it practice, I'm not upset.
But even with a chuck it would be a challenge to remount it. A real wa-zoo!

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !