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dicklaxt
05-05-2002, 05:13 PM
I came into ownership(the price was right) of an 8" faceplate, but it has a 3/4" x 16 TPI and my spindle is 1" x 8 TPI. I don't know that I would have a hell of a lot of use for this faceplate, an adaptor out of Packard Woodworks Catalog is $59.95 plus tax, plus shipping....I don't think so!!!!!

I was wondering if I were to get a 3/4" bolt,lockwasher and nut, length as required so that with nut tightened onto bolt thread and bottomed out against the bolt shank and then having an adequate amount of thread still remaining/showing to be able to then thread this into the faceplate with the lockwasher in place between the nut and the faceplate, tighten it down to remain forever and ever. I could then hacksaw off the head of the bolt and then chuck this assembly up in Super Nova chuck.

The question is would the chuck hold this large of a faceplate, with
a large blank(Wood) attached, true and not slip????If you think this would work, would it be better to grind flats on bolt shank for better chuck holding geometry as further thought???

Here is another thought some of the local auto parts stores have speciality bins of bolts, maybe I could find one that had a 3/4" threaded end but had a 1 " shank and shoulder. I could then do away with the nut and lockwasher for a neater installation,just use a star washer and tighten the shoulder down against the faceplate itself. I think I'll check that out first thing in the morning.If I could find that arrangement I could then thread the shank to 1" x 8 TPI and use a coupling to attach to the spindle. The more I talk the smarter I get > What are your thoughts guys and you too Marilyn.

dick

volleyheads
05-06-2002, 06:49 AM
I would want to keep the distance from the headstock to the wood as short as possible to minimize vibration. I would think that any way of changing the threads should work, just don't make the lever arm too large.

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

Sonny Edmonds
05-06-2002, 08:12 AM
Dick,
I was under the impression that just about all Craftsman lathes had a 3/4" x 16TPI spindels.
Are you sure yours has a 1" x 8TPI?
Further, I looked up an 8" faceplate in the Craftsman catalog this morning and they only want $24.95 for one. Either thread size.
I personally wouldn't want to put that kind of strain on my woodworking chuck. And I don't think you would get as good and consistant results as putting the faceplate on the spindal.
For the price of just buying the right faceplate, I wouldn't persue adapting the thing. My 2 cents worth.

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

dicklaxt
05-06-2002, 10:12 AM
Sonny ,it is definitely 1" x 8 TPI..I had another thought after having slept on it..why not drill it out and tap it to 1" x 8TPI so I took it over to a local machine shop and did just that. They charged me $10 and I have mounted and given it a test spin ....it works perfectly without even the slighest wobble. A brand new 8" face plate for $10 , not to shabby a deal. I guess that Bohemian I am married too has finally got me converted to trying to find a deal...... LOLOLOL

dick

Sonny Edmonds
05-06-2002, 10:30 AM
Well that's great news!
I'd say you owe Glady's a hug about now. And if you don't figure the same, just give her one from me and Betty anyhow.
Keep havin fun! :)

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

dicklaxt
05-06-2002, 10:45 AM
Say did you buy a set of turning tools to sharpen on that "T" thing?

dick

volleyheads
05-06-2002, 11:44 AM
Did I hear that right??????


:)

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

volleyheads
05-06-2002, 12:01 PM
Dick,

You beat me to it. I was sitting at lunch and smacked myself for not just saying to retap it if there was enough metal. You know what I say, Great minds....


(yep, that's it they think totally differently than mine)

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

Sonny Edmonds
05-06-2002, 12:24 PM
Dick and Bill,
No I didn't buy anymore turning tools. Bill, yes I bought a "T".
See the Pomona Woodworking Show post in just yaking.
I took 4 tools to the show, as I said I would. Do to the clammer at the Tormak booth I drew out the Ellsworth and said "Prove it and I'll buy your damn machine." He did, and tought me a few new tricks as well.
Now I have the lament of running out of things to sharpen.
I have some left on the wall to go. But along with mirror edges on my 10 turning tools, all of Mama's knives as sharpened, all the sizzors to be found, and even her $125.00 haircutting sizzors are done.
So yes, I'm one of those damn Tormak converts.
The dang thing is way overpriced, the jigs are as well. But the results are what you're buying.
I sure couldn't argue with the "no sanding needed cut" that chisel did when done. Nor the 3 different paper thin curls it could produce while I slowly hand turned the arbor on the guys lathe.
I got hung up in "Honney Doo's" and didn't get any turning in this weekend. But maybe tonight. :) I think I desirve some shop time.

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

volleyheads
05-06-2002, 12:45 PM
Did you get the gouge jig?

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

Sonny Edmonds
05-06-2002, 12:51 PM
Bill,
I got the wood turners package. The gouge jig is a part of that.
That's what he used to do the Ellsworth or Irish grind. Most impressive results.

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

carl civi
05-06-2002, 04:00 PM
Sonny,I`ll send my tools out to ya! O K, Carl

volleyheads
05-07-2002, 06:18 AM
Don't go pointing your gouges at me!


:) :) :) :)


(Unless you mean it)

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

Sonny Edmonds
05-07-2002, 08:12 AM
Bill,
Ya got to admit, it's mighty uniform.
Sorry if I startled Ya, I made sure it wasn't loaded first. :)

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

volleyheads
05-07-2002, 08:56 AM
Safety first!

The gouge looks pretty nice. You may want to change the angle to make it a little less steep if you find it to be too aggressive (Sonny find something too aggressive, hmmm, not too likely) I have the Tormek as well, but I tend to use the low speed grinder for the bowl gouge. The fingernail profile from the jig does not seem to work as well as the Ellsworth jig grind, there are some slight, but to me, perceptible differences in the shape. The other reason I use the grinder for the gouge is the ability to quickly change shapes/grinds. The last reason I switched over was due to the wear of the wheel and the grooving of it when grinding the bowl gouge. But I do know it grinds a very nice edge.

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

Sonny Edmonds
05-07-2002, 10:35 AM
Bill,
Do you keep track of your "recipies" for the Tormak? Reason for asking is to try and duplicate the a, cs, and d you found works best for your Ellsworth grind. And others as well, of course.
I think if we can share some of these specs it might help many.
Currently, I'm at a= 45, cs= 2.5, and d= 2". That is what he used to try and duplicate what was there, with the grinding wheel. Then just hand held for the stropping.

Side Note: The guy was kind of arguementitive about it being an Irish grind. It was the Irish grind long before it became the Ellsworth, he stated.
OK, fine. That's what I want on it anyway. I was trying to get it acrossed to him it was an Ellsworth Signiture Series gouge.

I was very impressed with the continous curl that shot off the gouge when done, for the full length of the stock. Others were as well. Several of us watched intently as he doctored the gouge.
Incidentally, that is untouched from the "show" grind. I haven't even stroped it.
He demonstrated some good ways to use it beyond what my dufus trials have tought me. Showed me the value of some observation of master turners. (Not that I had any dought watching would be a great thing.)

:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !

volleyheads
05-07-2002, 12:29 PM
Sonny,

I got into this a long time ago with Limey. I think we both agreed anywhere between 25 to 45 degrees is a good number, the lower the angle the less aggressive. I used to vary the other number between 2 and 4.5 or so and had at least two separate grinds available. There is a way to use the Ellsworth jig on the Tormek as well. It has a longer lever arm which affects the angle and more importantly the profile curve. I liked it better than the shapes I tried with the Tormek Jig. The closest to the original jig grind is about 34-40 degrees, and a setting of around 3. Another problem I had was the setting of the jig is "analog" and I couldn't change it and get it back to the same number (remember I was using at least two different settings), so I was constantly changing the grind a little every time. It would have been better to have two of the jigs to experiment with, but they are kind of pricey. I also did not like that the bushings kept falling out when removing the jig from the machine. I don't use my Tormek jig for the gouges anymore.

As far as the side grind/Irish grind/Ellsworth grind debate. I came in very late to it and it is still going on. Ellsworth credits learning the grind from a man who I can' remember his name, but I believe he was in Europe and may even have been from Ireland. (Limey, no offense about Europe England Ireland being different, just let me slide, just this once) It was named after Ellsworth by others as far as I can tell. He only calls it the signature grind. I do believe he changed the angle and experimented a lot with the different possibilities and found the one that works best for him. I would encourage you to do the same and find Sonny's grind. Little geometric changes have a large difference in performance given the difference in use everyone has. But by far the most important thing is the sharpness, the exact shape is secondary, but discernibly different.

As far as learning from watching, I agree totally. I learned the most from our local HOW (Hands on Workshops) where you go to a master turners shop and learn with them. The second best learning method was the videos put out there. You can even rent them from Packard or Craft supplies for a month I believe. Great learning tools. The classes and working with a live person allow you to interact and learn what you aren't doing that you think you are though. Try the AAW sections near you,, they would help a whole lot. Especially in regards to the next lathe, should you decide to go further into the turning addiction.

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

Dave Peebles
05-07-2002, 09:29 PM
Hi Bill,

I believe this is the guy you were thinking of.

http://www.kennys.ie/artists/oneill-liam/

I believe that Liam is the first turner credited with this grind.

Best,
Dave

www.bowlturner.com

volleyheads
05-08-2002, 06:26 AM
He is the one, I checked on David Ellsworth's video last night to make sure. You are good Dave!

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"

Dave Peebles
05-08-2002, 10:47 PM
Shucks Bill,

My mind is mostly gone, but sometimes I do remember some obscure tidbits :)

Best,
Dave

www.bowlturner.com

Sonny Edmonds
06-02-2010, 09:13 AM
Sure Carl,
If you'd like send them prepaid both ways and the sharpening is free.
Seriously. I'd be glad to, that way you could try the edge for yourself.
Email me if you are and I can send you my address.
In the meantime here's a looksy:


:D

Sonny Edmonds
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
http://home.earthlink.net/~sonnypie/
God Bless America !