View Full Version : Does anyone use hide glue . . .
10-12-2004, 09:48 PM
. . . for their wood projects?
When I took my hand-cut dovetail class, the instructor used Titebond hide glue to glue up the joints he made. All of the information I've found talks about the kind that has to be mixed and used hot. I'm just wondering how the Titebond ready-to-use stuff compares.
In keeping with the spirit of my hand-tool-made Shaker cabinet, I decided to go ahead and use it, but I'm wondering what kind of experience others have had with it.
"How wrong it is for a woman to expect the man to build the world she wants, rather than to create it herself."
- Anais Nin (1903-1977)
10-12-2004, 11:13 PM
Neither as strong nor as versatile as the hot gluepot stuff. But works in a pinch and dovetails don't need a strong glue.
The principle advantage of hot hide glue is that it melts old hide glue so you can dismantle for repairs. The premixed cold stuff doesn't very well.
Never do a round tenon joint....they always eventually break their glue bond....with anything but hide glue. There are chairmakers today using flexible epoxy for these that claim they'll never break....well, the glue joint might not but something else probably will...and if you can't dismantle it for repairs, it's firewood quicker than it needs to be.
10-12-2004, 11:25 PM
I've never used either the hot pot stuff or the pre-made in the bottle stuff. However i've been building a guitar and after reading the instrument maker's forum regarding various adhesives, hide glue seems to have some interesting properties/benefits. As Bob said, it can be heated and melted for repairs. In addition, it seems that i remember reading that due to the protein based structure of the glue, it bonds at a molecular level with the wood. It leaves a darker glue line which may be advantageous on dark woods.
One disadvantage is the first benefit that i named. You probably would not want to use this as a joint in a computer cabinet or the like that might build up heat and partially/temporarily melt the glue. I guess that's why there's different glues and adhesives.
"Ever notice how good enough, is usually neither good nor enough?"
10-12-2004, 11:26 PM
Also, hide glue is used when adhesion, but some flexibility is needed (ie: in the function of the piece or if environmental conditions dictate such flexibiliy).
In particular, hide glues are used in wood musical instruments. The soundboards of wood guitars and violins, etc. are held to the body and strut bacing by hide glue. Epoxies and "super glues" will change the resonant properties of the instrument.
Now that I've posted this, I'll expect Lex Luthier to be along shortly with more details.
Co-president of the Anti-Nanny Filter League
10-15-2004, 01:58 AM
I have used it for veneering and am considering it for an upcoming period piece for the same reason as yours. One thing to consider is that there is a short open time. It really cools off fast once it leaves the pot. For more complex glue-ups, you could add urea to extend the open time, which I believe is what Franklin uses in the Tite Bond version to keep it liquid in the bottle.
10-20-2004, 10:38 PM
I used it once..now I cant remember where I hid it....:P
PS couldnt resist..
10-23-2004, 11:13 PM
"Now that I've posted this, I'll expect Lex Luthier to be along shortly with more details."
Hehe...Personally, and based on other opinions from instrument makers, the bottled Titebond hide glue is sh*t. If you're gonna use hide glue, use the real thing.
"Also, hide glue is used when adhesion, but some flexibility is needed"
I'm not sure about that, as hide glue dries hard a brittle, it's used in musical instrument construction because of it's ability to release easily under heat, ie, sticking a hot knife in between a joint will pop it apart, which is particularly useful for violins.