Stanley #80 - Did I do this right...?

[Limey]

Yes Rob ..it's sharp enough .
Two things...scrapers are not good on soft woods like pine. It would be easier to shove butter up a porcupines arsehole with a red hot needle.
secondly I can see from your board that you are getting a case of the chatters.. these little 80's are very hard to operate without chatter which can lead to a lot more damage on thin stuff like veneered surfaces than benefit.
I differ from the "book" method of setting up and instead of dropping the blade onto the surface with a business card under the sole portion to act as a spacer.I leave the sole on the wood surface and let the blade rest against the wood surface.
Clamp up the blade and then put a bow in it with the centre screw until it just starts to cut.
A purpose made scraper plane can be set more aggressively but the little two hander is better a delicate scraping.
Also try the pull method and the push method to see which suits you best.
If it's any consolation I still get a few chatter marks and invariably do a second clean up with card scrapers :)

have fun

Limey

[rhull]

Excellent!

I meant to highlight the shavings, not the board. :) Indeed, it's pine - it was a piece that I ran a test re-saw on my bandsaw. I was scraping the lower left of the pine, which you can see is clear, not the right side that still shows the lines from the bandsaw re-saw operation. So, in short, I wasn't getting any chatter. I'll see if I have any scrap hardwood I can test the scraper with tomorrow.

[Keystone]

Rob,

I use tissue paper to set the depth of my blade. Found that the business card was to deap for me. It takes another pass of two, but I don't get any chatter marks. Also, try sone white oak to learn on. It's real hard wood, but it'll make you work to get chatter marks!

[Limey]

So sorry... If thats pine that you cleaned up, and I can now see that the marks are indeed from the bandsaw, then I would say that you've got it tuned very well indeed. Comgratulations..

Looks like I need some instruction from you !!

Try it on some oak as Ken suggests and you'll be in for a real treat.


Good job.

Limester

[Sawduster]

Getting some right nice shavings there. I use a piece of copy paper as a spacer to set mine up. Also, I've found that skewing the thing like with a handplane gives you an edge in troublesome woods, and I've had times when I would get some skipping when skewing one way and found that skewing the other way cleaned it right up.

[rhull]

>Getting some right nice shavings there. I use a piece of
>copy paper as a spacer to set mine up. Also, I've found
>that skewing the thing like with a handplane gives you an
>edge in troublesome woods, and I've had times when I would
>get some skipping when skewing one way and found that
>skewing the other way cleaned it right up.


I actually didn't use a spacer when I originally set mine up. I did it the way Limey indicated he does it - no spacer, just bending the blade until I started to get a light cut.

I tried on a piece of curly walnut, and got some fairly good results. I got a little chatter around the "curls" in the grain, but found that if I lightened up the cut a bit and skewing the plane as you indicated above, I got less chatter.


When you finish up with your #80, do you "detension" the blade? Or is it acceptable to keep the thumbscrew tight when finished with it?

[Sawduster]

I just leave it as it is. Never thought nor even heard of detensioning it.

[rhull]

I just tuned up (or tried to) a my first Stanley #80 using the really helpful info I found in this thread:

http://www.woodworking.com/dcforum/dcboard.pl?az=show_thread&om=102&forum=DCForumID15&archive=

I don't have a burnisher, so I used the handle from a long screwdriver...not sure if that was acceptable, though it seemed to turn the burr.

So...are these the "right" sort of scrapings one should get?