View Full Version : stair tread material
Hi,
I'm replacing the staircase that goes into my basement. I was planning on reusing the existing 1" thick particle board treads but I have run into problems and can't use them anymore. I'm wondering what options I have for tread material.
The staircase is built using 2 2x12" carriages. The treads will be 36" wide. The treads will sit on the carriage rather than fitting into a routed groove. I am using 1/2" plywood as the riser material.
I would like to use some sort of wood based product for the treads. I'd like something that I can find at a box store like Home Depot. I was thinking about using douglas fir. I could use a 2" material (actually 1 1/2" thick). But was thinking that I could plane that down to 1". Is this OK? Any other ideas for tread material?
Thx!
Steve
Danial
12-02-2002, 03:30 PM
There are a number of options. Two questions that will help with recommendations. Do you plan on covering the stair treads? If so with what type of material; carpeting, wood flooring, etc?
Dan
LumberJock
12-02-2002, 04:08 PM
It all depends on what appearance you want out of the finished product and what kind of durability you want. The number of stringers will also play a part in what material you should use.
If you have three stringers you can use MDF or 5/4 steptread and not worry too much about bowing or creaking. Either way would be suitable for a crapet covering, but MDF would be cheaper since 5/4 X 12 steptread can run as much as $2.50 per LF depending on species. The steptread looks good finished with a poly coating.
If you have two stringers you should think about using a 2X10 or 2X12 to reduce the bowing issue. That is also suitable for carpet covering if you desire.
deathwish2
12-02-2002, 04:20 PM
>If you have two stringers you should think about using a
>2X10 or 2X12 to reduce the bowing issue. That is also
>suitable for carpet covering if you desire.
The 2x?? dimensional lumber sold at the big box is generally a little 'softer' (K.D. spruce) than the stuff they sell as stair treads (like the 5/4 which is usually oak that was mentioned above). If you go the 'soft' wood route, be sure to place the boards 'crown-up' like you would with PT decking outside, that way when they finish drying out, they will not be cupped in appearance . . . unless you get real lucky and find some riftsawn 2x??'s at the yard.
Also, depending on the spacing of you existing two, you may want to consider cutting a third stringer!
--Deathwish
When it comes to
woodworking and buying
tools, I always think back to
my grandfathers advice on
golf . . . "it's not the arrows,
it's the indian.''
woodchuck1954
12-02-2002, 04:31 PM
With 36" I would definately use a third stringer, no matter what tread material. If carpeted, I would use 3/4" material, plywood or MDF would be fine. USE SCREWS and CONSTRUCTION ADHESHIVE.
LumberJock
12-02-2002, 04:38 PM
>The 2x?? dimensional lumber sold at the big box is generally
>a little 'softer' (K.D. spruce) than the stuff they sell as
>stair treads (like the 5/4 which is usually oak that was
>mentioned above).
I should have made myself a bit clearer. In my area, anything 2X10 or 2X12 is assumed to be Southern Yellow Pine. Local codes don't allow spruce to be used as headers, joists, or stringers (all of which are ususally 2X10 or 2X12).
Sometimes I forget that different areas use different species in dimensional framing lumber.
These stairs will be leading to my basement. I will not be finishing them other than to maybe put a coat or two of paint on them. I only have two stringers/carriages. To add a third would be too much of a PITA at this point (I'd have to get a 16' board, would need it delivered to my house, my project would be delayed even longer, etc).
It looks like popular opinion says 2x material is the way to go. A couple questions.
1) How would you affix the treads to the carriages? Would you use nails or screws? Would you also use glue?
2) Don't the risers add some support to the tread as well? I'm using 1/2" ply and figured that the back of the tread would be stiffened by screwing it to the riser and the front of the tread would be supported by the riser from the step below.
3) The 2x12's I had delivered actually measured to be 11" wide. I had expected 11 1/2". What's up with that?
Thanks for all your help,
Steve
I'm using douglas fir.
Steve
deathwish2
12-02-2002, 05:15 PM
>Sometimes I forget that different areas use different
>species in dimensional framing lumber.
The only SYP the big boxes carry in New England is plywood and the PT stuff . . . . bleehck . . . I wish the framing 2x's were SYP, it's a decent, inexpensive furniture material . . . unless you have to truck it 600 miles to the store!
All the 2x stuff up here is usually Spruce . . . and FWIW it holds up fine under our winter snow loads.
--Deathwish
When it comes to
woodworking and buying
tools, I always think back to
my grandfathers advice on
golf . . . "it's not the arrows,
it's the indian.''
deathwish2
12-02-2002, 05:20 PM
>1) How would you affix the treads to the carriages? Would
>you use nails or screws? Would you also use glue?
As mentioned above, screws with subfloor adhesive.
>2) Don't the risers add some support to the tread as well?
>I'm using 1/2" ply and figured that the back of the tread
>would be stiffened by screwing it to the riser and the front
>of the tread would be supported by the riser from the step
>below.
It'll be a tough to screw STRAIGHT up through a 2" tread and get a screw to hold in 1/2" ply . . . without it sneaking out the ply one one side or the other . . . over time they wil likely pull out because there is little strength screwing in that way. If you really want to tie them together, steel hurricane ties on the back (under) side are probably your best option. Or, you could put the 'riser' in first and screw through it into the 2x . . . with a little more of that subfloor adhesive in there . . . . that would be a solid connection . . . and it will expose your entire 11" to the feet instead of covering up 1/2" of the tread with the ply.
>3) The 2x12's I had delivered actually measured to be 11"
>wide. I had expected 11 1/2". What's up with that?
12" rough green cut minus shrinkage and planing yields only 11" in the end.
Oh yeah . . . the doug fir sounds A-OK to me!
--Deathwish
When it comes to
woodworking and buying
tools, I always think back to
my grandfathers advice on
golf . . . "it's not the arrows,
it's the indian.''
LumberJock
12-02-2002, 05:31 PM
>2) Don't the risers add some support to the tread as well?
>I'm using 1/2" ply and figured that the back of the tread
>would be stiffened by screwing it to the riser and the front
>of the tread would be supported by the riser from the step
>below.
Yes, the risers will support the treads (assuming you attach the riser first and butt the tread to the riser).
>
>3) The 2x12's I had delivered actually measured to be 11"
>wide. I had expected 11 1/2". What's up with that?
Actually, a dressed 2X12 should measure 11.25" wide, but I've seen as little as 11.125" I could probably go down to my lumber shed right now and pull a dozen 2X12's and get maybe half of them the same dimensions. That's just the problem with some lumbermills. The mill I buy from has been known to lack precision when it comes to the wide stuff.
Dimensional lumber is dressed 1/2" from labeled dimensions ie: 2X4 = 1.5" X 3.5" but the width dressing goes to 3/4" when you get to 10" widths.