115 vs 230

[Super Ry]

I am getting ready to finally enclose our carport and make my very own SHOP!! Now I'm faced wiht the question when running my new lines. 115 or 230? I already have a 20amp line ready (it dead ends at the carport) and another 15 amp line. Both are planned to supply the entire shop. I must add that we are only planning on staying in the house another 6 years, so designing the perfect setup is a bit premature, I just want something that won't continually blow breakers.

The lines will be supplying Delta: 8" jointer, 14 in bandsaw, 12" Disk + 6" belt sander(gotta love Air Force Surplus auctions!!!!!!) and a Rockwell 12" TS. These are my main concerns for the breaker problem. Everything is already wired for 115 and takes quite a bit o amps on start up (won't kick the 20 amp breaker but sure lites up the 15 amp, jointer and sander in particular). I just need a push one way or the other in determining the line voltage.

Second Question the Sander had a motor starter wired into it. There is a slight problem with this. Me thinks its a thermal type that heats up beyond the rating and kicks off the power to the tool after its been run for a while 5 to 10 min. Then you have to let it cool before starting it up again. It was originally wired for 230/220 and had a breaker set for this amperage. I rewired to 115 as per the diagram and thus started the problem. And finally the question (sorry for the long windedness) Is the starter needed? Its a newer Delta enclosed base sander, no more than 8 years old with nice clean motor with its own protection. I'm pretty sure the Starter was some OSHA requirement for Govt tools. I've been nervouse to take off the starter because of its added protection and the switch for the sander is Delta expensive and molmentary - gotta change out for a constant switch type if a take off the starter. Delta quoted 75$ for a new switch ouch!! If I go this route - any dirction on cheaper switch alternatives would also help.

Sorry for the on and on and on and on....

Thanks!!

[MatD]

I would definitely run at least another line to your shop. It doesn't sound like you have taken lights into account here. When I was rewiring my shop I was running my TS and lights on the same line (a 20A) and evertime I turned the TS on my lights would go dim :)
I would use the 15A for the lights, the 20 amp for any tools that can't be rewired for 220, and then run a 220 for the TS and jointer and whatever else you can (I am assuming that you won't be running the TS and Jointer at the same time:) )
You will also want to get either a shop vac or dust collection system wich will have to run at the same time as the power tools, so that can run on the 20A line while you are using the tools on the 220V line.

Mat

[Lou_williams]

You want to run every tool you can on 220. it is much better for you tools and will make your life easier. The reason that your motor starter is kicking off is that you have exceeded the current of the starter. They are rated for current capacity. When you rewired the saw for 110 you doubled the current required to run the saw. A 2 ph motor takes about 10 amps at 220 and 20 amps at 110. So if you rewire the jointer for 220 the starter will work just fine. they are much better, case in point here in No Calf, we have been having a lot of power outages. So your are going along just fine and bam off goes off. You blades stop turning. Then bam it goes back on. maybe you are still in the sampe place your were and maybe it has been a couple of hours later. With a motor starter, the motor stays off, with a switch the motor kicks back on and maybe you are in the wrong place. Or the board that was sitting on the top is flung across the room.

[Chagrin]

Might be best to just bite the bullet and put in a subpanel, depending on how much of a "real shop" you're trying to build (or how far you have to run the lines from the breaker in your house). You can never have too many outlets or cicuits :)

As someone else mentioned, you have to consider lighting for the shop - as I remember, it's not appropriate to have both lights and outlets on the same circuit. You might want to consult an electrician friend.

Don't forget that, in a garage, you need a GFCI on any outlet circuits as well.

[JEFF PLYLER]

I agree with last post, subpanel is the way to go. It'll cost a little more initially, but the benefits are far greater. I.E. flexibility, safer, and also leaves options for future tools. A 100A sub may sound like overkill, but a lot of things can happen in six years.

Consult local licensed electrician if you feel uncomfortable DIY. Just make sure to follow the proper codes for your area.
May even be cheaper than installing the correct number of Individual circuits depending on wire run length. Also, having breakers in same area means less walking in the event breaker trips (properly sized shouldn't except ocassional UH-OH)