View Full Version : Sealing a Hammock Stand??
03-26-2003, 02:09 PM
Similar to PP post on his glider. I have a Hammock stand that was made from the Hatteras Hammock CO. It laminated solid wood that has been bent to form what looks like a single piece of boat framing. Its HUGE and has been sitting in our AZ sun for about 2 years. The watering system sprays it down just about every night and the wood is suffering form my neglect. What can I get to protect it? I'm mainly concerned about the UV destroying the wood. I don't have enough shade in the back yard to help out and the watering system can't be adjusted cuz the grass id die. Will marine varnish be okay - or is there something better?
03-26-2003, 05:38 PM
Any kind of EXTERIOR finish, with UV protection will work. Personally,
I like Marine Spar Varnish. If its good enough for boats, on salt water, its good enough for lawn furniture. Just remember, NOTHING will last more than a few years. If I were you, I would strip and sand, before putting on a new top coat. If you maintain the new top coat before it gets too bad, you can probably get by with sanding and coating, in the future.
Danford C Jennings
03-26-2003, 08:26 PM
If memory serves, the hammock's frame is made from either Teak or Cypress. Finishing is not mandatory as both these woods weather extremely well. It boils down to personal preferance, some like the weathered look of Teak/Cypress others don't.
If it is Teak and you elect to use a film finish, use a high quality marine grade exterior spar or urethane varnish such as Interlux or Epifanes. You should prepare the surface first by using a Teak cleaner such as Teak Brite, let it cure then wipe down with turpentine and apply your varnish immediatly after. Teak has a very high silica content so the turpentine will help the varnish to bond better.
I'm not certain if Teak Brite will work on Cypress, you would need to verify. At any rate after the wood is cleaned, you won't need to perform the turpentine "wash"...FWIW.
03-27-2003, 10:44 AM
It might be Teak - not sure - close straight grain pattern - with a blond coloring.
The coloring of the wood is great - its held up no prob - I'm worried about cracking. I think the moisture content it going up form the watering system and the sun heats it up and dries it out. There are quite a few cracks all over it. Just about all are superficial - cept one that starts from the end grain up near the top where the Hammock connects too it - not tooo much of a bigge as the lag bolt that cannects to the hammock i'll keep it together.
I really just want the cracking to stop - I haveta move this thing every time I mow and the little slivers are starting to find their way into ME - not a good thing.
03-27-2003, 09:57 PM
Hmmm... that doesn't sound very much like teak to me. I'm bettin' you could work up a good finish like I suggested to Paul - linseed, coat by coat until the wood won't take any more (helps fill existing cracks and prevent new ones) and forms a surface film, followed by marine varnish.
-- Tim --
You can always take one more step against the wind.
Danford C Jennings
03-28-2003, 10:50 AM
...that doesn't sound very much like teak to me.
On that we agree...
You say the coloring has held up, which leads me to believe this had a finish on it before. Left "naked" Cypress will turn gray in pretty short order in your neck o' the woods...
Are the "cracks" along the glue joints where the pieces are laminated? From your description of the crack where the lag bolt is, it sounds like it.
My take is that because it's getting soaked and then with the sun beating down on it, you're getting these cracks. While I think that a marine grade spar varnish will help, it won't totally eliminate what's happening if it continues to be subjected to getting soaked then exposed to the sun in such a manner without preventative maintenance and re-finishing every other year or so...FWIW.
06-02-2010, 09:18 AM
None of the small cracks are on the glue joints - thankfuly - all the lil ones are more surface related and only on the top of the wood pieces that lay flat - which leads me to believe its more from the water sitting on the wood. The big crack from the end grain does follow a joint then heads off into one of the lam pieces. I thought about cutting it out - making a wedge shaped cut to remove the crack - then filling the void with another new piece. But that id be a big job and I'm not too sur I'm up to that just yet. But I guess I should just bite the bullet and do it since I'll have the thing appart for staining.
I'll attach a pic of one just like it - says its cypris - guess thats what mine is.
I think I'll try getting a good sealer on it then go with the marine spar varnish after the surgery. Looks like as you said Dano - a nice yearly or every other yearly task :)