Blade Stabilizers for miter saw

[Badfrog]

I made a post a little while ago about the problem I'm having with crosscuts on my miter saw. The cut is 90 but the blade wonders ever so slightly along the cut. I'm using a thin kerf blade and believe that is part of my problem. Instead of spending another$60+ on a new standard kerf blade I want to try a blade stabilizer (particularly the systimatic set from woodcraft). Does anyone here use a stabilizer or dampner and did it work for you or do you recommend it? I'm hoping it will improve the quality of my cut. If I can do that, I will be happy. Thanks for input!

[Danford C Jennings]

I seriously doubt that the arbor (and guard) would accomodate a stabilizer...

Dano

[Badfrog]

Currently, there is a washer on each side of the blade on the arbor, but they are not near the size (1.5 in. dia.) of the stabilizers (I think 3.5 in. dia.). I don't know if I have to keep the washers on there with the stabilizers or not?? I know that they will fit without the washers.

[Badfrog]

I called Freud, yes I do have to use the washers with stabilizer. I will probably be able to get one stabilizer on there but not two. I think I'll just go home tonight and try a bunch of different ways of cutting and different blades. If no luck, then I know it's the saw. If my other blades do cut okay, then I take this blade back to lowes and search for a standard kerf 80T blade. If its the saw, then I'll be cursed in to spending more money in a mindless pursuit to create a simple straight cut.

[WoodMangler]

There's something wrong with this picture....

Even the crappiest thin kerf should make a straight cut eh?? I've used lots of thin kerf blades... even really dull they still cut straight... although you can't see for all the smoke :)

There's something else wrong, so chasing the problem by adding a stabilizer isn't the answer...

Either the 2 fence halves aren't straight which allows the wood to snap backwards or rock... depending on which way the error is, or...

The blade isn't 90 degrees to the fence AND 90 degrees to the table or....

The wood is moving when you cut... try clamping the wood down...

The difference between thin and regular kerf is only 1/32" narrower (usually) than a regular kerf blade (3/32" VS 1/8")... and that's the kerf... I think (guesssing here) that the difference in blade body thickness is really minute (my-knute)...

I'd search for the answer and not throw money at the problem...

[Bob Hobbs]

I tend to agree with Marc--that is, you've got a bad blade or your setup is out-of-whack. If the blade is bad, no amount of stiffeners or stabilizers will help, but if you're determined to try, get a blade stiffener, NOT a pair of stabilizers.

The stiffener will then create it's own set of problems with regard to depth of cut, etc.

I heartily endorse your decision to try different blades first!

[Danford C Jennings]

Marc,

Here's the link to where BadFrog first asked about this problem: http://forums.woodworking.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.pl?az=read_count&om=3087&forum=DCForumID9

Dano

[BADFROG]

I worked on this problem for about 2hrs. last night cutting with different blades and am starting to get better cuts. I'm starting to cut with the Freud very slowly and am not getting any visual blade marks on the wood. I think before, I just wasn't cutting slow enough and was getting very small blade marks which showed up on edge with my square. I used a sears 104T blade which left a super smooth cut but it tore out on the ends unlike the Freud. I'm still working on the fence, which may take anther 2hrs. to get right. I think the problem I had was operator error and I wanted to blame it on something else. Once I get this MS setup I will actually be able to produce straight square and flat pieces of wood. Wouldn't that be wonderful?

[WoodMangler]

Yea Dano... Thanks for linking me there... I remembered the post pretty much..

I agree it might be the blade but there's something telling me it's not this time... Gut feeling eh :)