View Full Version : resawing on the table saw
11-08-2000, 04:43 PM
I wish to resaw some cherry on my tablesaw. I know that a bandsaw would be the correct choice but I do not own one. My question is what type of blade should I use to resaw this 4 quarter wood? I am using the wood for door panels. Any special blade to use?
What I would do is get a thin curf good quality blade. You should use a rip blade with the maximum number of carbide teeth. Not a cross cut.
Depending of the type of table saw you have take is slow and steady. You will loose a lot of material with the table saw but it works.
Dave in Cairns
11-10-2000, 05:38 AM
Use a 36 or 24 tooth ripping blade in conjuntion with a tell fence . I resaw timber up to 7" deep on my BT3K this way. Actually , while a bandsaw looses less on the kerf , the unevenness of the cut means the dressed timber is thinner than be the TS method.
>Actually , while a
>bandsaw looses less on the
>kerf , the unevenness of
>the cut means the dressed
>timber is thinner than be
>the TS method.
That all depends on how the bandsaw is set up and the quality of the blade. I have a set up that takes very little in the way of dressing. One quick pass on the jointer and its ready for whatever I need. The skill and setup of the bandsaw is key.
I do agree if you don't take the time to setup right it is better to use the TS. I used to do just that and it is clear from your work, you know a lot about working wood.
11-10-2000, 08:36 PM
You had it right in the beginning of your reply, then you went and did a 180.
A band saw is the only tool for ripping lumber!
I agree if not set up properly, then you might as well be using a
If a table saw is your only alternative , then drop the blade size down two inches. On a 10 inch saw run a 8 inch rip blade. More rpm smoother easier cut. Motor won't labor.
Dave in Cairns
11-10-2000, 09:06 PM
Sounds like your TS might need a tune up. I run a 2.7 mm kerf blade with 36 teeth. By doing 4 passes (2 on one side, 2 on the other ) I can CLEANLY deep rip through River red gum. This timber is seriously hard and heavy with interlocking grain . Even with a specialised ripping bandsaw, I know I'd loose at least 3mm on the kerf alone , not to mention dressing the boards.
11-15-2000, 10:19 AM
I agree with Dave. the table saw method works great. I've been using it on maple, walnut, cherry, and even Osage Orange (talk about hardwood). Anyway, my blade is a standard combo, I think 40 teeth, 10 inch, thin kerf. I take 3/4 to 1 inch pass depths and can go 3 inches from each side (6 inch finished board). I still use a planer to make sure uniform thickness, but a belt sander would be enough for a quick cleanup. Almost forgot - blade stabilizers are a must for this kind of work, especially with my antique Craftsman. The blade wobble would elminate any advantage of a thin kerf blade without the stabilizers.