View Full Version : How do I flatten a buckled snap in laminate floor?
02-12-2006, 07:51 AM
There is a small section of my laminate floor that just started to come up and wouldn't stay down. The floor is the snap in laminate type and yes, I did leave expansion gaps at the end. The buckling is on the longitudinal seams.
02-12-2006, 08:05 AM
Beats the crap out of me, CjR. I'm a tile man myself...
Even have two tile saws now... so I'm commited.
And I should be committed... but we won't go there now.. :7
[link:home.att.net/~paul.edmonds/|Sonny Edmonds ]
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
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02-12-2006, 08:19 AM
Any way you can get under the floor (like from a ladder on the ground) and drive a screw upwards to suck it down?
Could be that, after the house is dried out a little (HAW! :) ) that the floor'll pull back down by itself, too.
-- Tim --
It's a bird!
It's a plane!
No, it's a bird.
02-12-2006, 08:37 AM
If the subfloor is intact and the buckle is in the laminate only it may be moisture... Did you let the floorin g acclimate to the house for several days? i've only done one laminate floor and it was glue together but went in and is holding up well. Jeff
02-12-2006, 09:45 AM
I've got the same problem. A couple of the joints in our laminate floor insist on raising. We just live with it, but if you discover a solution please pass it on.
BTW, ours is slab-on-grade foundation.
He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep
for that which he cannot lose.
02-12-2006, 09:51 AM
Same here Cody. The floor is on my old house. Slab on grade foundation. The flooring were in the house for days before installation so acclimatization was not the problem. Short of drilling a tiny hole and inject some glue down there, I don't know what else to do.
You can bet that if I ever have to use laminate floor again, I'll put a little bit of spray adhesive down.
Danford C Jennings
02-12-2006, 10:09 AM
How many days?...I've installed a number of these types of floors, 7-10 days is the minimum for acclimating. Buckeling is caused by either the perimeter gap being too small (an 8th in dry climates, a 4th in more humid climates) and/or moisture causing the MDF type core to swell.
On the other hand, I've only installed one "snap together" floating floor (never again); if any of the tonques or grooves get dinged up a buckel will eventually show up. The only fix I know of is replacement of the offending plank(s). Using any type of adhesive to hold down the floor obviates the concept of "floating" and can (will) only make things worse....FWIW.
02-12-2006, 02:15 PM
Unfortunately you have to check every single piece as you go and also wipe down/vac every edge.
The tiniest speck of extra anything, be it wood or grit in the join will cause a loose join that would then be exaggerated if the floor as a whole begins to swell due to humidity.
It's a good idea to wipe down every edge and then vacuum the already installed line prior to clicking your next piece in.
I know it slows everything down, but wiping those edges really shows up the imperfections as you can feel them.
You can't treat the floor like a hardwood and secure it from below. If it can't float, it will fail in time but you can replace that section with the problem as though it were a damaged section...Instructions for this vary from company to company and often include buying their router bit to cut a new edge.
If your baseboard is already down, or your quarter round...whatever you used, then this is the only way outside of removing it again and pulling the floor up.
*edit* by the way...check out some pics online of failed laminate flooring if secured...It's AMAZING what the combined movement of all those sections can do if it's been fixed in place.
I'm also told that if the problem area is eased, then the floor begins to settle again until it's flat to the floor again.