View Full Version : Edge Jointing On My Router Table...
Dave Frattaroli (Guest)
07-10-2001, 07:16 AM
I've read the demo at woodshopdemos.com and have tried this at home. I've run into two problems.
1. I ended up with some wierd tear-out. It's on the edge not the surface. I'm using Select Pine and a Rockler flush trim bit.
2. The edge was only straight along about 2/3 of the entire length of the board. The board is 38". I think the fence moved.
What I'm wondering is if any of you have done this before and what tips or advice you may be able to give me. My boards need to be 5" wide. They are about 5 1/8" right now.
Also, do I edge one side and then cut to size or sneak up on the 5" as a result of the jointing?
07-10-2001, 08:50 AM
I've used router jointing with rather good success on planks that were simply too long to run through my jointer - like 16-footers (mostly oak).
The tearout you describe may be due to taking off too much in a single pass - don't try to take off more than about 1/16" at a time. It may also have been caused by grain that changed direction, although I doubt that's the cause.
Yep, it does sound like your fence shifted in the middle if the board is straight for most of its length but not the rest.
IMO, you should make one more light pass to finish straightening your stock, only about 1/32" or 1/16" deep if possible, then rip it to width using your table saw (if you have one).
I'm not sure which demo you're following, but I've personally found it to be easiest to do this kind of thing by clamping the board to be jointed to a long flat surface so it overhangs a little. I clamp a straightedge to the top of the board as a fence, just about 2-3/4" away from the edge to be jointed. I adjust this distance to accomodate the size of the router base, the size of the bit, and the amount I want to take off.
If the board to be jointed is one of the "longies" I mentioned earlier, I clamp additional backers behind the fence at strategic places to prevent the fence from flexing away from the edge.
I use a rectangular router base for this, and I always run the router along the length of the board with one side of the rectangle riding against the fence. If you use a round base, be sure to keep your router at the same angle to the fence, with one single point on the router base riding against the fence. This compensates for a base that may not be perfectly centered over the collet. If you rotate such a base during this operation, you won't end up with a straight edge.
-- Tim --
07-10-2001, 09:06 AM
I'm taking a guess here and could be totally off the mark.
Also don't feel insulted if I suggest something that is basic.
1. Featherboards and hold downs. Check they are doing the job.
Are they keeping the piece flat to the table and tight against the cutter.
2. Make sure the outfeed fence is offset to support the piece exactly parallel through the cutter.This is worth spending time getting right. repeated cuts at the same setting don't require further attention but if you change depth of cut you need to re-adjust outfeed fence. Guess how I know !!!!
3.How much are you trimming per bite. If you got wild grain small bites and a slower feed might help.(Three passes at 1/32 inch are an extra nano second in life) You ain't going to delay the project by doing smaller cuts. Do it for a living ,Different story.
4. You say you're using pine.Check often to see that the bit is not gooed up. Wipe with mineral spirit if fresh goo, Oven cleaner or proprietry cleaner if not.Makes a huge difference to the cut. You might even think you have inserted a new bit.
5.Wax candle or paste wax on table and fence will make feeding smooth which in turn helps control of feed.
6. When I joint boards. I get two straight edges and mark them,
I get as close as I can to even widths all the same but (i don't know the importance to the project) I don't sweat if they differ by a 1/16 or so. Then rip the panel to finished size leaving enough to zip down the sawn edges with a jack plane, ""ah hear that swoosh as the plane glides down the wood"
Hope this helps.
P.s> keep meaning to ask where do you get your speaker components,crossovers etc. They looked really excellent cabinets that you made.
07-10-2001, 09:11 AM
You must have posted before I could finish typing, Next time would you mind being a little more courteous and not barge in.
Most frightfully rude of you.
Only kidding, I think we are (as usual) in close agreement didn't want you to think I was cloning my replies.:D:D
Dave Frattaroli (Guest)
07-10-2001, 09:19 AM
Thanks Tim, Limey.
I think the bit could be cleaned up. I didn't get this tear out when I started. It's wierd because it happens on the edge,not the surface.
Right now, my passes are 1/16" or the thickness of the laminate shim I'm using on my outfeed. Maybe I should use something thinner.
I have a 36" and 50" aluminum straight edge that can be clamped to a workpiece. I may try these and run the router down the edge.
Limey, I got all my stuff at partsexpress.com. I picked up a book called Advanced Speaker Design at Radio Shack. It cost about $3. It was invaluable in describing the crossovers and providing formulas to determine the proper values for the caps, resistors, etc.
My No.6 is almost done. I just need to stain the tote and sharpen the iron.
07-10-2001, 04:24 PM
Good news on the #6
After all the hard work I bet you're just itching to try it.
Before I read Tim's post about clamping down a straight edge It had occurred to me that this might be a better route but I didn't recommend this because of the Round base issue and concentricity(if that's a word) getting the router bit centred in the bushing. Once again Tim has a neat solution (don't you just hate it when a guy's that smart) with the square base.
I must go and liberate another piece of "Lexan" from the stores!!
Nobody will know it wasn't my idea.
In the days when I was really cheap I would edge plane both sides (a rubbed joint) no clamps just the intimate contact (steady on Tim)with glue between the two surfaces and let it cure. It's not that difficult with a nicely set long soled (fore) plane. I said fore plane (will you stop it).
Once I got a router and stopped crying about the cost of bits I found that just a skim over with a very fine plane after running them past a trimming straight edge bit gave me very good invisible joints without the fiddle.
One thing I did buy on impulse(shame on me)was a thicker two piece cap iron I have seen them still advertised recently and will try and dig up the details,Unless someone nameless beats me to the punch.
Essentially they gave me two advantages, They stop the plane blade from even thinking about chattering (though what plane blades find so much to talk about beats me)and second it's metal dowelled in two pieces so sharpening is a breeze as you can leave the screwed piece in situ and slip the smaller part off the cap back without having to reset it.That is if you only want to touch up the blade (that's the last of the double entendres for today)
Best of luck with the 5" panels and keep us all posted with your progress,
P.S. Thanks for the heads up on the speaker parts.
Dave Frattaroli (Guest)
07-11-2001, 07:36 AM
Limey, about the square base, others who have done this with a round base have marked a reference point on the base and made sure to keep this mark steady towards the fence/edge. I think I'm going to try making a straight edge guide tonight from MDF. I'll use the factory edge as my reference. It's be 48" long so it will accomodate both my 18" and 38" boards. Can't hurt and it'll only cost a few bucks.
I'm discouraged from using my router table because it seems the fence shifts ever so slightly after the first 38" board is passed through.
Right now, the panels of this toybox will be made up of 4 5" boards. If I can't get the edges straight before I reach 5" well then, like I said, the panels will be made up of 5 4" boards!
Thanks all of you for the help. Who was it that said: "The journey's the thing"?
08-05-2001, 07:06 PM
>1. I ended up with
>some wierd tear-out. It's
>on the edge not the
>surface. I'm using Select
>Pine and a Rockler flush
When using my router table to edge joint, I use an up cutting spiral bit. It eliminates the tear-out and gives me a very smooth and true edge.