Craftsman 12

[Sunblade]

I just purchased a 12" Craftsman Radial Arm Saw from a retired gentlemen that no longer uses it. It is very old, the manual is from 1967. However, the price was right ($75). It appears to be in excelent condition. I haven't used it yet as I have to put a 220V plug in downstairs. He used the saw to cut a 1 x 12 and then showed me how square it cut. It looked perfect. The head and slides all are very smooth and clean. It looks like it was really taken care of.
My question is: Does anyone out there own a 12" Craftsman saw like this that is as old as this one is? It is very heavy and looks to be very well made. When the guy demonstrated it, the saw sounded very quiet and smooth. Would it be worth it to have the motor replaced if it went bad in the future? According to the manual, it does everything but wash your car.
What do you think?

Sunblade

[stretch2187]

I don't have a saw like it. My advise is to use the heck outta the thing. If the motor does go bad you'll have to decide for yourself if you liked the machine enough to warrent a new motor. Personally, I wish I could find a nice radial arm saw for $75, even without a motor. Congrats on the nice find.

[deathwish2]

You won't likely be able to get a new motor, but the good news is that one will probably never die inthe hands of a hobbiest. ;)

If it ever did, you can get $100 for it anyways . . . they are under recall since they cannot be retrofitted to the 'current' state-of-the-art safety guard . . . though neighter can my Rockwell Radoal, but that hasn't stopped me from using it . . . a LOT.
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

See here also . . . at first when you said Craftsman and 12", I figured somone put too big a blade on a 10" . . . but lo and behold . . .
Open stand version: http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=2226
Closed stand version: http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=1454

If it hasn't already got one, make sure you invest in a decent, negative hook crosscut blade. They lessen the tendency for the saw from want to pull forward on their own. Negative hooks are fairly common in 12" sizes, sonce that is what is proper for the ubiquitous 12" SCMS . . . a decent one will run you around $40-50 . . . a 'high-end' a few dollars to a few times more. Watch the arbor sizes . . . a lot come in either size . . .

A couple higher end options here (in both 5/8ths" and 1" arbors:
http://www.justsawblades.com/systimatic/radial_arm.htm

A middle ground (I use this in a 10" on my Rockwell Radial):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008K2TR

For lower end blades, take a look at HD/Lowes, I'll not recommend anything to you except to stay away from thin kerf blades on a saw that large . . . there is NO advantage to using one with a high power saw . . . and blade flutter is a real concern on a 12" saw plate.

ENJOY THE MACHINE!!

[Lou_f]

I have a mid 70's 10 inch Craftsman RAS and it has been a workhorse for the past 30 years. These are GREAT saws. If the motor ever went, I would not hesitate to spend a few hundred bucks to get it rewound.

[deathwish2]

Wholly carp eye mayd a lawt if tie-poes . . . eye tink preefrooding wood bee gud!

[Dandy Dan]

I have a Craftsman RAS from the early '70s that is still running. I don't think you will need to worry about the motor dying. Mine is still running after all these years. I did change the wiring over and run it on 220 rather than 110. If you remove the plate on the topside of the motor it will tell you which wires to switch to go from 110 - 220 or back. Good Luck and Good Find;)

[Sunblade]

Hey Deathwish2:
That one link you gave shows a picture of the saw I just purchased.
I found the model number: 113.29501. It's wired already for 220V. and I have 220 in my breaker box from a electric range hookup that we don't use so it's just a matter of running a conduit from the box which is in my workshop anyways to the saw. I'm looking forward to many years of use from my newest addition. Thanks for the imput guys. Is this a great website or what?!!!!

Sunblade

[woodchuck1954]

I have, in the past used RAS's, anywheres between 8" to 16".
Mostly on construction sites or lumber yards. Most of them were Dewalts. I don't think it really matters which brand you have, they all were pretty stout, back in those days. SCMS's have pretty much replaced them because they have the same crosscutting range and are a heck of a lot easier to move and secure. I've never heard of one that blew a motor. I think the biggest issue is accuratsy. I bet the old fellow that sold to you, never changed a blade in it or adjusted much for cutting different angles, or etc. If you want to really get full use out of it, play with all the different adjustment mechenisms.
They are nortorious for freezing up with lack of use.

If you are serious of making it a fixture in your shop, more power to you. Personally I get by, very well with my table saw and 12" CMS.
I have never seen any standards, plans or talk about the best way to set one up with a accurate table, other than using a 2"X12" and a 1"X4", nailed to the back edge, for a fence. But anyway design a easy to adjust table, fence and support and you have won half the battle. The other half is unfreezing, repairing or replacing the adjustment controls.