Rip Capacity

[WoodWorkGirl]

Hey guys,

I often see information regarding the rip capacity of various fence systems for table saws.

The current capacity of my Ridgid fence system is 24 inches on the right side and about 12 on the left. I've never made any cuts with the fence to the left of the blade so I don't know what that is all about.

I am getting ready to install a 30 inch Biesemeyer fence system.

My question is why would I need anything greater than this?

If I want a 36 inch piece off a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood, I would set the fence at 12 inches and the leftover will be 36. I think I could do this with the fence on the left or right side depending on the clearance I had at each side.

Anyway, I am trying to figure out why folks want 52 inch rip capacity on table saws.

Thanks,

TJ

[beamerweb]

The biggest reason is when you wanna cut a sheet of plywood in half, I think. That'd be a 48" cut. Some might call it a crosscut because it's not lengthwise, but in plywood, it's all the same to the blade.

[Cody Colston]

The biggest reason is when you wanna cut a sheet of plywood
in half, I think. That'd be a 48" cut. Some might call it a
crosscut because it's not lengthwise, but in plywood, it's
all the same to the blade.

Bingo! I have 53 inches right of the blade and have occassionally cut plywood in half lengthwise. Depending on the cutlist, sometimes it can help economize on the plywood used.

That's also why my outfeed table is the full width of my tablesaw and right side extension. ;)

Cody
Tyler, TX



He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep for that which he cannot lose.

[TDHofstetter]

The common justification is the half-sheet cut... but BOY that wants a bunch of attention, & extra effort, too. I like to cut 'em on 2x4's, on the floor, with my handheld circular saw & a straightedge.

-- Tim --


I'm a
HOARSE
WHISPERER.

[WoodWorkGirl]

So you are taking a full size sheet of plywood and cross cutting it using only the rip fence?

I thought it was taboo to use the fence in any situation where the workpiece is wider than it is long which would be the case if you are cross cutting a full sheet.

For example, would you use the fence to rip a piece that was 12 inch wide and 6 in long?

I guess I'm confused because I was taught to use a sled if cutting a piece that was wider than it was long.

Thanks for the responses. At least I understand a bit better now.

TJ

[Cody Colston]

I cut pieces all the time that are longer than they are wide and I cut them against the rip fence. The criteria I use is whether I feel the piece is wide enough to keep one edge firmly against the fence, regardless of length.

Cody
Tyler, TX



He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep for that which he cannot lose.

[WoodWorkGirl]

Ok, got it (she said confidently :).) That makes sense. I was thinking the workpiece would tend to pivot but that would only be the case where the piece was not very wide.

Thank you for indulging me and for your patience, Cody.

I thought for sure I was missing something not being able to think of a project that would require that rip capacity.

TJ

[arcticfox46]

Uhhhh - Mee tooo.

Using a guide with a circular saw - the cuts come out downright nice. I feel a lot better obout it too.

I don't even like to rip a full sheet of plywood. I just don't feel comfortable with it. Even with that said - I do rip full sheets on the TS.

Not sure I would want to crosscut a full sheet.

[Everett]

I have the newer version the 3650 which has 36" to the right (and 12 to the left)

I agree with the other comments, there are times when cross cutting a full sheet is useful but it's not a lot of fun unless you really have a good system for infeed and outfeed. You are probably better off using a circular saw with a straight edge. I find that even if I can just break it in half I'm in pretty good shape on the TS.

That said, there are times where 36" hasn't been enough and I really would have liked the 50" rails.

For example, going back to your suggestion of cutting 12" off the piece and leaving the desired 36" width on the waste side. I've done that but you need to take into account the blade width which is one more thing for me to screw up. More often though the situation that's burned me is where I setup for the cut and through some screw-up end up being a little bit longer than I wanted. Normally long is good because you can just recut. Setting the fence at 1" and leaving 36 inches for the "waste" isn't a fun cut. Even less fun when it's only a 1/4" that you are off. Just no way to take a little more off.

[woodmannie]

Biggest thing is not to usse the miter gauge on one side of the blade, and the fence on the other. If they are on the same side it's ok.

wm

[Sonny Edmonds]

I tend to rip sheet stock (MDF, Plywood, Melamine), or crosscut it on the floor (driveway) supported on 4x2's or whatever is handy.
My forked up back can bearly handle wielding a full sheet around anymore (3/4").
So for the sake of my misery, I quarter the game and then do the finish butchering. ;)

:D

[link:home.att.net/~paul.edmonds/|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
In God We Trust !
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[Cody Colston]

Hey TJ,

Just remember that I don't always do things the "correct" way. I'm like Sonny in that regard. My shop, my methods. I'd never recommend something that I know to be dangerous but ignorance could play a part, too.

I sure wouldn't want anyone hurt emulating something I do. Keep in mind that I still consider myself a noobie when it comes to woodworking. :)

Cody
Tyler, TX



He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep for that which he cannot lose.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Not igorense, Cody. It's having developed the skills and confidence to handle the task you wish to complete.
In your case (and often in mine) we can handle "crosscutting" a sheet of stock. Our shops are equipped for it. But never would I suggest such with a BT-3000 or the like. Capiesh? ;)
With a catcher (helper), I will routinely slice down full sheet stock.
By myself, I prefer to break the sheet down a bit.

BTW, TJ, you will have to rip off about 11 13/16" to save 3 feet of a piece (depending on your kirf). Unless it is MDF, which comes in 49" X 97" sheets.
Point is that your fence is usually zeroed for the right side of the blade and your waste is the blade and left of it. (Tilt doesn't matter)
Ya gotta measure twice, cut once. ;)


:D

[link:home.att.net/~paul.edmonds/|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
In God We Trust !
"Lurkimus turdius orifus"


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[Sawduster]

But never would I suggest such with a BT-3000 or the like. Capiesh?

I gotta wonder why you specifically picked the BT3000 for that comment. With entended rails and table my BT had greater width capacity than my new cabinet saw and I cross cut lots of full length plywood sheets with it. Lots of lesser saws out there that people use, from benchtops to many contractor models that could have been named, or could have been left nameless. I gotta think that you're picking on me directly with that remark. :)

[Neonsilver]

She said she was using a Ridgid saw, I'm sure that played a big part in him choosing the BT3000.

[Sawduster]

Nah, Sonny just likes pickin stuff with me. :) Other than being made by the same company now, the BT and Rigid have nothing in common. The BT is Sonny's favorite saw to rant about.

[dbriski]

Bill, you have the same point I was thinking of. I'll usually rough cut 1/2" to 1" larger (depending if I have the waste to use) to break down my sheets into parts. Then I will make clean cuts to finalize the size. So if I have pieces larger than 30" its very hard to trim that 1"< off the waste side against the fence than it is to have the fence at 36" or whatever. Also when you are making a tight fit of some pieces you need to make a cut, test fit and some times trim off 1/16" or somthing. You can't do that they way you described.

I also have the ridgid with 24-12 I had moved my rails as far to the left so I had like 32-4. But I also just got the Bies from Lowes. I may have to adjust my rails over to 36 for my next project that takes a lot of cuts in the 32-36" range and then move it back to use the tape.

As far as your technique of cutting the 12" off of a 4' sheet to get 3'. This is where it would be good to use the left side of the blade so you have more support of the 3' piece of board on your extension table.

[Mark F]

No WM, you should not use the miter gague and rip fence at the same time in either case.

Mark F

[Sawduster]

Correct-a-mundo. Never use the miter gauge and rip fence for a through cut. Courting disaster.

I will use the rip fence with a spacer block CLAMPED to the rip fence as a stop for making repeat cuts using a zero clearence fence attached to the miter gauge. The block is CLAMPED to the rip fence well in front of the blade and it is CLAMPED because if you don't it can follow your workpiece as you make your cut and cause a kickback.

[eggcrate]

Anyway, I am trying to figure out why folks want 52 inch rip capacity on table saws.

I like having a 52 inch rip capacity so I can use the TS top as an assembly platform. }>

[rrich]

Jerry and Mark,
Respectfully disagree. It is permissable to use a miter gauge and the fence ONLY if the miter gauge is between the blade and fence. You will have both hands on the stock and the miter gauge, thus controlling the stock. It's sort of like a cross cut sled for narrower pieces of stock.

I do agree that it is safer to use an offset block clamped to the fence to further reduce the chance for kick back.

The problem with the miter gauge to the left of the saw blade and an offset block clamped to the fence is that the cut piece is the fall off piece and almost is never cut all the way through.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Simply stated, Jerry 'Ol boy, how much does your new cabinet saw weigh?
OK, now how much does a BT-3000 or any of those "pocket" type portable sawz weigh?
They are no way near as stable as they should be given the inherent dangers of the work.

I know mine, at 687 pounds, is a damn site more stable than a pallet of them toy saws. Add what I've done to it in modifications and you have a platform that could stay stable under anything I want to cut on it (including an antique bridge timber).

Damn thin skinned Texakins anyway! }>
Now THAT is a remark shot right through you, Brother Jerry! ;) :7 LMAO!

:D

[link:home.att.net/~paul.edmonds/|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
In God We Trust !
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[Sonny Edmonds]

That too, Doug, That Too. :D

And it's easier to scrape the glue drips off the iron... :o

:D

[link:home.att.net/~paul.edmonds/|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
In God We Trust !
"Lurkimus turdius orifus"


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[Jim_J Lazy 3]

...AND, you can stack lots and lots of stiles and rails and stuff right beside you and keep it all straight (yeah right) I do know lots of folks that hang a router off'n the bottom of the extension, out near the end, and then use the TS fence for new "router table" fence as well.

........Jim@JLazy3

"The only thing certain in life ...is uncertainty!"

[eggcrate]

Well, in all honesty, the best I can do with my set up is a 36 inch rip. I couldn't get a 52 incher in the shop! To big! Right now, my TS is covered with tools I took outta my pickup so I could haul some people around.

[AZ Scott]

I pretty much go along with David. I generally rough cut on saw horses with perpendicular 2x4's on top for stability & then trim the pieces to final size on the TS. This also alows me to make a light scoring cut, then flip the sheet and get a super clean cut. You can do it however you like but that's how I do it.
I've cut full sheets but didn't like it by myself and my circular saw is definitey for rough cutting only ;)

[rrich]

TJ and all,
I don't understand all this hoop-a-la about cutting full sheets. I'm a weak old methane gas cloud and I push full sheets melamine through my saw all the time. It only requires two things, a left side table and an out feed table.

Yes it is a PITA but not impossible. The only thing that I'll have cut is Baltic Birch because 60" just doesn't fit inside the shell on my pickup.

The reason for a 52" rip cut is cabinet work. Typically cabinets are 23-1/4" deep plus face frame. The first cut is at 48" and then two more at 23-1/4". This is one way you KNOW that you have straight edges.

[WoodWorkGirl]

Now that makes perfect sense to me Rich. I can see that this would justify the extra rip capacity.

I rip plywood, MDF, and other sheet goods on my table saw but I never thought about cross cutting a whole sheet on my table saw.

I appreciate everyone's responses and I'm glad I posted. I learned a lot from this thread.

TJ

[Mark F]

rrich,
While it is possible to do what you suggest without incident (using the miter gague between the blade and fence), it is not recommended. The chances of the wood getting skewed and kicking back are high. I think more people would disagree with your opinion than agree as well as most books on table saw safety.

Respectfully disagreeing

Mark F

[Sawduster]

The problem with the miter gauge to the left of the saw blade and an offset block clamped to the fence is that the cut piece is the fall off piece and almost is never cut all the way through.

I most generally have an extended fence attached to my miter gage which extends past the blade (and is taller than the blade height for most cuts) which is effectively a zero clearence fence. It also pushes the cut-off piece through the blade completing the cut. Besides, if starting with a longer piece of stock, making the cut in that manner precludes me from having to take the rip fence off of the table and also clearing the scraps and other stuff stored to the right of the fence. :) Guess moving the miter gauge to the right of the blade might serve the same purpose, but I haven't gotten used to having a miter slot to the right of the blade yet. The BT3K with the miter slot table added had both slots left of the blade.

As to using the fence with the miter gauge between it and the blade, it seems that a half second of in attention after the cut is completed but before the piece clears the back of the blade would cause a heck of a kickback. I would not recommend that method to anyone.