Step by step for making wide panel

[CajunRider]

My recent attempt at jointing strips together to make a wide panel was not pretty. The panel was kinda uneven and warp easily. I see that Leo is using the reverse glue joint bit. Is that the way to go? Can someone show me the steps?

[niki]

Hi CajunRider

I'm still thinking about your drill press and I have some idea that I would use in "distress" but it's not practical for many height changes and for long time.

Three questions about your "panel gluing"
1. What is the thickness and width of your "strips"
2. Do you have a router
3. Do you have a Straight Edge

Regards
niki

[CajunRider]

The thickness is any where between 20mm to 30mm depending on the panel I'm trying to make. The width is about 40mm to 60mm. I do have a router and a straight edge. I don't have a reverse glue bit but do have a bit to make tongue and groove. I wonder if I can use that bit for gluing panel.

Thanks for thinking about the drill press problem. I actually bought the replacement drill press table already. Now I can use the standard design for the table and don't have to worry about moving up and down.

[TDHofstetter]

Also - what are you using to align the planks to each other? Dowels? Biscuits ( :P )? Loose splines?

Do try to alternate the growth rings in the planks as up-down-up-down. It'll give you a slightly "wavy" panel, but it's better than the cupped one you can get from aligning all the growth rings the same way.

-- Tim --


I'm a
HOARSE
WHISPERER.:P

[Cody Colston]

CjR,

The glue-line bit will help on alignment of the panels, as will biscuits, splines or even the T&G joints, although that's a little overboard simply for alignment.

However, the best tool IMHO for aligning panel boards is cauls. Place them on each end and depending on size, in the middle of the panel and they will help immensely.

Also, the panel boards must be jointed so that with only moderate hand pressure, the joint line is flush and nearly invisible. Alternate your clamps over and under the panel, progressively tightening each one in rotation until they are all snug. Do not over-tighten, as this can also cause the panel to bow, as will un-square edges.

I don't worry about the grain orientation since a washboard effect is worse than a bow, to me. I simply arrange the panel boards for the best match of color and grain.

Cody
Tyler, TX



He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep for that which he cannot lose.

[arcticfox46]

Duc,

I use the Reverse Glue bit because I have it, I have a router table, and I like it.

It is NOT the only way to go.

You don't even need dowels, or bisquits. The glued edge is going to be stronger than the board even without those thngs.

Important things in gluing up a wide panel

1) Straight board edge, - jointed edge. This can be done on a table saw- with a jig, or with a circular saw and straight edge, or with a router and a straight edge.

2) Edge is 90 degrees to the face (there is some exception to this). Again this can be done same as in #1.

3) Alignment on boards - faces - one board to the next. (yes the reverse glue bit helps - but not the only way.) Cody is right - cauls can do it, they just help to keep things flat and aligned.

4) Clamps - do NOT overtighten. (tighten just enough to pull the joint closed and a little glue squeeze out.) Overtightening will warp the joint.

5) DON'T try to do more that three bords at a time - I say forget that - do only two at a time. If you notice in my Aztec Plaque post - I only glued up two at a time.

[Jeffk]

CJR: In order to make flat panels you need to start with flat, straight stock that has edges exactly 90* to the faces. Some people believe ( and there might be some science to it) that alternating the growth rings will help eliminate cupping. Personally I believe that as long as you start with stable stock that is evenly dried to the proper moisture content and finish both sides evenly there should be no reason for the panel to cup or bow. Also, if you do alternate growth rings and get cupping you'll end up with a washboard effect.

I do recommend the use of cauls for wider panels, especially if you are gluing more than one strip at a time. Not over-tightening your clamps will also prevent more trouble than clamps that are not tight enough.

One other note. After gluing up the panels you will want to make sure that you stand them on end or on "stickers" to store them. Leaving them lay on top of a table without a way for air to circulate around both faces can definitely cause cupping or bowing. DAMHIKT

[niki]

Well, 40~60 mm is very narrow and it's impossible to use hand held router to make the glue line.

I don't know how do you make the glue-line but if it's on the table saw, try to saw one strip with the "face" up and one strip with the "face" down...what I'm trying to say is that, maybe your blade is not perfect 90° to the table and sawing one side "up" and one side "down" will give you the sum of exactly 90°....A very small "out of 90°" can accumulate and give very cupped board.

I'm not sure if all those "reverse glue joint bit" or "tongue and groove bits" will help you to get a flat board, I think that the bit will follow the shape of the "strip" and if the strip is not straight - it will remain not straight.

In my 13 years in the hobby, I've never used any re-enforcement or aligning agents (like biscuits of dowels) just simple "board to board" glue up and never had problems with strength....well, the old coffee table still looks good...

Regards
niki