Rip wrong?

[cabinetman]

Nothing wrong in that as long as you're set up for the cut. Have a good blade, make your fence precautions, and have good hold downs/push jig. Some cuts feel better when they are done with the fence to the left of the blade.

[jimknapp]

My $0.02:

Frankly, the fear of the falloff from the cut bouncing off the blade and being shot back at you is WAY overblown. I have had a RT for years and have NEVER had this happen (knock on wood). If you are attentive and careful, the chances of this happening are very, very low.

For decades, cabinet saws only came in right tilt varieties. Do you think that cabinet makers refused to do angled rips on these saws? Hardly.

Moreover, even if this is a huge concern for you, you can always avoid ths issue entirely my moving the fence over to the LEFT side fo the blade and ripping there, so that your falloff will then fall away from the blade on the right.

YMMV.

[CajunRider]

I don't know. It looks like they thought of it as well and the auxiliary fence is supposed to mitigate the risk. I sure would like to hear the opinion of others here though.

[tbragsdale]

Well sh*t. All this time thinking it was a no-no.

TBR

[Sawduster]

Heck, that one don't look scarey at all. The aux fence is set snug against the table as the already beveled edge would have a tendency to slip under the rip fence which rides a hair or three above the table. With the cut being made in the pic, there is space between the tilted blade and the fence for pushing the semi-entrapped cutoff piece through using a push stick.

The scary cuts are those where you bury the tilted blade into the aux fence and your cutoff is in the "tunnel" created by the blade and aux fence. But even those cuts are relatively safe since the piece that drops off the edge is smaller than the space it falls into. A splitter behind the blade should keep the cutoff lined up so that it doesn't get caught by the blade and ejected back out toward the operator.

[rblusthaus]

whereever and whenever possible, I would just move the fence to other side of the blade. Even with all the precautions mentioned, if you can move the fence, do it. Its not that big a PIA. Sure, your ruler will be off, but if you are making an angled rip cut, you should be running several test cuts anyway. My 2 cents.

[Sawduster]

I never got used to using that built in ruler so that is not an issue with me anyway. 'Sides, I got me a left tilt saw now.

[TDHofstetter]

The tilt of the blade can influence which side of the blade you keep your fence on to make those cuts... but yep - you can make cuts like that. Just look for pitfalls. If you're unsure, unplug the saw and do a "dry run", looking carefully at where the cut takes place and what could possibly happen.

-- Tim --


I'm a
HOARSE
WHISPERER.

[Cody Colston]

The auxiliary fence is there to close the gap at the bottom of the primary fence and keep the thin, mitered edge from sliding underneath. The intent there is not to eliminate kickback but to eliminate messing up the cut.

I think that if the keeper piece (next to the fence) is wide enough to place a push shoe on, then it is a safe cut. If it's really narrow and the fence is close to the blade, then move the fence to the left-hand side.

If you make raised panels on the tablesaw (not coved), you will need to move the fence to the left, also.

Cody
Tyler, TX



He is no fool who gives up what he cannot keep for that which he cannot lose.

[Sawduster]

The rip fence for my old BT 3000 had slots in the side which allowed easy attachment and adjustability of an aux fence. One of the fences I made for it was shorter in length than others so that I could set it up with its bearing surface ending just behind the blade.

It is also easy enough to fabricate a low fence attachment for cases in which a low fence is desirable. Both are good additions to your table saw arsenal.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Jim, Maybe you had a brain fart here, but for decades cabinet saws and tablesaws in general came in left tilt only.
Just thought I'd make sure you knew that.
Right tilt is the relitively newcomer to the shop world. Maybe 3-4 decades now. ;)

:D

[link:home.earthlink.net/~pie/data/index.html|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
In God We Trust !
"Lurkimus turdius orifus"


Welcome to the Forum!
http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/15/15_4_132.gif

[Sonny Edmonds]

The big fear here is that is what some refer to as a "trapped cut".
It's only bad if you get lilly livered about controlling your stock and pushing through at the end of cut.
Otherwise, I find it no worse than any other fence guided operation. ;)

:D

[link:home.earthlink.net/~pie/data/index.html|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
In God We Trust !
"Lurkimus turdius orifus"


Welcome to the Forum!
http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/15/15_4_132.gif

[jimknapp]

Um, not in Unisaws. Here's a 1939, the first year they were built:

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m65/mcmill45/Picture007-1.jpg

[TDHofstetter]

Yeah, but... that's a reversed photo. You can tell - the ladders are backwards... :7 :7 :7

-- Tim --


I'm a
HOARSE
WHISPERER.

[jimknapp]

Parc! Tuo ti derugif uoy!

Actually, on closer inspection, he does have the throat plate in backwards.

[Sonny Edmonds]

Here Jim, I fixed it for you. Left tilt.
And the throat plate is not OEM.

http://home.earthlink.net/~pie/images/zzzzzzzzzw.jpg

You can't fool me, I'm the Gingerbread Man!
Never argue with the village idiot! He might be able to reverse your proof.

Until I can prove otherwise, I will stand corrected. http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/23/23_4_123.gif
(You know, ALL of those pictures at [link:http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/ByType-Detail.asp?Type=18 | Old Woodworking Machines] are reversed. Never saw such a conglomeration of errors!)

:D

[link:home.earthlink.net/~pie/data/index.html|Sonny Edmonds ]
Saugus, CA
"Precision Firewood Specialist"
God Bless America !
In God We Trust !
"Lurkimus turdius orifus"


Welcome to the Forum!
http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/15/15_4_132.gif

[jimknapp]

Very funny. :7

[deathwish2]

My 2¢ . . . when I have 'trap cuts' on my RT contractor saw, I use a piece of scrap as a push stick to follow the stock being cut, then once the cut piece is clear, I either back the push stick out, or power down and back the push stick out.

[tbragsdale]

I have a right tilt TS, and since getting it have almost no angled rips because I thought this was wrong, wrong, wrong. Then I open Fine Woodworking, and see this!

Any comments.

TBR

[niki]

Hi TBR

As you know, the EU safety regulations are much more strict than the USA ones.

The drawing below is taken from the UK SHE ( the UK OSHA) and if they show it....

Please note that we use low fence....The TS must be supplied with Low fence and High fence that are usually one fence that we just turn 90°

Another point to note is the "Short fence", you can see where the fence ends and the length is adjustable and set according to the blade height...
That is done to prevent Kickback in case some internal stresses are released after the cut and push the work into the blade. the short fence lets the board to expand to the right of the blade and if there is no fence, no pressure on the blade - no kickback....

That (the short fence) and the Riving knife are satisfying the law and no kickback pawls are required.

Some pics of my TS (that is made according to the EU safety regulations) you can see the "Short fence" at "Low" position

Also, note the long push stick that I'm using

Regards
niki