View Full Version : grizzly g1023 110 volt version
01-08-2001, 02:49 PM
I was wondering if anyone had any hands on experience with this version.
01-08-2001, 03:39 PM
I've read a lot of the posts on different forums that most likely you're better off going for the 220 version (same price I think) and having someone run a wire in your shop. I dont have first hand experience in this but I'm thinking of buying the 1023S in the next few months.
01-08-2001, 07:13 PM
There are lots of very good reasons to run all the tools in your shop that have the option on 220. The current in the wires is 1/2 of that in a 110 system. That means you can use smaller wire for the same circuit. The voltage drop is less means more power to the motor. They run a little cooler and last longer.
Most motors of 1 hp and above have options for running at 110 or 220 until you get to about 3 hp then you don't have the choice. It has to run at 220.
don't be afraid of 220 it is no more dangerous than 110 and almost all of the rest of the world uses it for everything including lamps.
The power that comes to your house is 220 and it is split at the breaker box into two different 110 legs. It is very easy to wire a 220 line, but if you don't know much about electricity get a pro to do it.
01-08-2001, 07:44 PM
I've been considering the same decision for a couple of weeks, but I went ahead with the 3hp/220 version. Thanks to some solid input here I realized 220v isn't intimidating, and you'll get an extra horse of power.
Consider that the 2hp/110 Grizzly g1023s110 doesn't save you any $$ over the 3hp G1023s. The only thing you're saving is HP (grin).
I pick up my 1023s at the freight terminal tomorrow. I'm sure I'll have a few questions/comments to post then.
01-08-2001, 10:32 PM
I'd be interested in hearing how your experience with Grizzly goes.
01-09-2001, 12:58 AM
If I remember correctly, the 110 VAC Grizzley needs a 30 Amp curcuit. In most homes, a 30 Amp 110 VAC circuit is a rather rare animal. So, if you're putting in a new 30 Amp circuit, why not be done with it and put in a 230 VAC 30 Amp circuit?
01-09-2001, 03:18 AM
If he goes with 220 you only need to put in a 20 amp circuit.
01-12-2001, 10:09 AM
I setup my new Grizzly g1023s (220v/3hp) before running my 220 circuit. I had bought everything to run a 220v 20a circuit, and I notice the electical instructions on the machine spec. a 30a circuit. The motor is stamped 18a,... can I get by with a 20a, or should I go ahead with the 30a setup?
01-12-2001, 06:58 PM
I did the same. My new 1023s came two days ago. I am wiring right now. You run the risk of short circuiting if you run that close to your amperage limit ie a 18 amp saw on a 20 amp circuit.
I am installing a 30 amp double pole circuit.
01-13-2001, 04:27 AM
YOu won't casue a short circuit. You might have the breaker blow out if the motor stalls out on you, but I don't think so. The 18 amp rating on the motor should be the peak rating and for most of the operation it will be less than that. As long as the breaker and the wiring are matched you are all right. don't run 12 gage to a 30 amp breaker. It is ok to run 10 gage to a 20 amp breaker though.
It is not a safty issue but maybe you might have the breaker pop a few times. that is the only risk.
01-14-2001, 05:01 PM
Per your request to know how my experience with Grizzly has gone:
First, I found their ordering and Technical folks to be very pleasant and accommodating. I was surprised that Grizzly was able to get the saw to me so quickly. I ordered a few things from Toolcrib the same day I ordered the TS, and the Grizz actually got here first.
I was expecting to spend a whole weekend just setting up and dialing in the saw based on some other postings I've read. Maybe I got lucky, but the saw arrived amazingly square, plumb and true. The wings went on no problem, although I did have to shim them a bit to get them flat: that was easy. The miter slots were perfectly parallel to the blade: no adjustment needed to the table top or arbor alignment. The 45* and 90* stops on the arbor were dead on: no adjustment. The miter gauge (which I expected to go into the round file upon arrival) also was dead on: no adjustment. The fence (a Biesemeyer copy) went on smoothly except for one small glitch: once the fence was aligned and set, the T-base was hitting one of the bolt-heads that hold the rails to the table top. A quick grind on the bolt head took care of that problem. Fence works great with no creep at lockdown. For all the alignment checks I was measuring tolerance to 0.001" using a dial indicator. Everything came out too true to believe, so I test cut some stock and found all the test cuts lined up perfecty (45* and 90*).
I've been sawing white oak all weekend and the saw's been performing beautifully. Contrary to some other postings, I haven't incurred any vibration or excess noise so far as I can tell. My Grizz is every bit as quiet and smooth as the Delta Unisaw that I'm accustomed to. I think the blade (Forrest WWII and 5" stabilizer) probably make a big difference here.
My only gripe is that on the G1023s they don't cover the motor side of the cabinet, so you can forget dust collection unless you enclose it or spring the extra $$ for the G1023Z. The blade inserts are pretty lousy too- I'll be getting some zero-clearance inserts soon.
Overall, I'd give the saw 5-stars. But hey, I've had it two days. Check back with me in a year and we'll see if I still feel the same way.
If anyone has any specific questions fire away.
My Grizzly manual tells "exactly" how it should be wired. I suggest you read your manual.
01-23-2001, 08:21 AM
Sounds like you had a good experience with Grizzly. Have you considered buying the motor cover to improve the dust collection? I think its only $35. I'm thinking about buying the extension wings too, dont need them now but I'll probably wish I had a few years down the road.