Freud TKR906 10" Teflon Combination Saw Blade

[timber]

I need a Thin Kerf Combination blade for my Radial Arm Saw and found this Freud Teflon Combination Blade for $34.50 + $7-$9 shipping from Right-Tool.

The price is right, but I'd like to hear from someone who has delt with Right-Tool before, is this a good source? (Reasonable shipping time, no credit card overcharges, good return policy etc. ???)

Also, has anyone purchased this Saw Blade, how do you like it? Should I get a stiffiner with this blade, or does it seem to work ok without one?

I'll be using this blade for cutting fir, cedar, maple and some exotic hardwoods, both crosscut and rip.

~ Thanks for any comments, pros or cons ~

Dave Brownscombe

[Danford C Jennings]

Dave,

FWIW, I wouldn't recommend using that blade on a radial arm, too agressive of a hook. You'd be much better off using an 80T ATB with a -5º hook, this will eliminate or significantly reduce climbing on cross cut operations. For ripping, get a dedicated rip blade.

I'm a very strong proponent for using dedicated blades, this would especially hold true for the radial arm saw. I also would recommend against using a thin kerf blade, too much deflection and hype. If you conduct a search, you will find many discussions on blades and their characteristics.

(Edit)
By the by; welcome to the forum, Dave.

Dano

[timber]

Thanks for the info and warm welcome Dano ~

Think I'll take your advice and do some searches for previous discussions.

Actually, what I really need is a blade that will cut very smooth, I make a lot of small boxes (jewelry, cigar, etc.), other small items and cedar arbors, benches etc. so 80-tooth sounds good. I can live with changing blades for rip cuts, do you have any recommendations there?

Currently, I have a 72-tooth 10" Kromedge, Carbide (Craftsman) Blade, and I'm due for an upgrade. My saw is an old DeWalt 740 Powershop.

Thanks for the comments ...

Dave Brownscombe

[Danford C Jennings]

Dave,

You're welcome.

Well, all my blades are DML Golden Eagles. I've used a lot of blades in my time and these are the best, IMHO. When I replaced the cross cut blade on my RAS, my supplier didn't have any DML neg hooked blades in stock, so I went with DMLs 80T ATB with 0º. I get very little climb, when it wears out I'll get the -5º....

SysteMatic and CMT are also excellent blades. Main thing though, find yourself a good blade doctor. No matter how good the blade, it will eventually boil down to his level of competence.

Great saw by the way, mine's a DeWalt 7749...

Dano

[timber]

Dano,

Thanks for getting more specific, I'm glad to know which brands you like, I will definately check them out. I'm pretty new to woodworking, although my Dad taught me well and woodworking has always been what I really wanted to do. I got "corporate downsized" (engineer/draftsman) and decided to start a small woodworking business of my own. I'm definately (and probably always will be) in the learning stage though, so your input is greatly appreciated.

Bringing Nature's Art to Task,

Dave Brownscombe

[Danford C Jennings]

Dave,

Since you are going into production, I'd definetly recommend DML Golden Eagles, these are "industrial" blades with outstanding quality of cut and longevity between sharpenings. You'll be astounded, I'm certain of that.

To save a jointing step in carcase work where glue ups aren't a concern, I got their 50T 4ATB+1FTG planer blade. I use this for ripping (mainly Poplar) the secondary wood, the cuts are as smooth as a baby's butt and as close to a jointed edge one can get with a circular saw as I've ever seen...Might be worth considering too. FWIW.

Dano

{Edit} I should qualify the above, I also own a table saw so that's where all my ripping operations are performed. I'm not recommending that you get the above mentioned blade as a general purpose blade for your RAS. Just an additional blade for light rip cuts on secondary woods...

[timber]

Dano,

I've been doing some searching and haven't been able to find a DML 80T ATB with -5º (yet). So far, I haven't looked for a 0º. Do you happen to know the Model# of either, I sent Sussex Saw an e-mail and they said they would check into it for me, but they didn't think they make these in a 10" blade. If you don't have the Model# handy, not to worry, I will keep shopping around.

Ripping on the RAS is definately dicey, at best, so I will probably need to get a TS also. My shop is really limited on space (who's isn't) so I've been holding off on the TS until I absolutely need it.


Catch ya later,

Dave Brownscombe
Bringing Nature's Art to Task

[Danford C Jennings]

Dave,

The arbor washers cover up the item numbers, the 0 hook on the RAS is their Compound Mitre, partial item number is #722?, the rip is their 24T FTG Rip, the planer (which is currently not on a saw) is item # 74020. Can't recall the number for their neg hook...

Dano

[timber]

Dano,

You've been a great help!
I'll keep you posted on what blades I decide on.
...This is a great site, sure glad I found it.

Best Regards,

Dave Brownscombe
Bringing Nature's Art to Task

[timber]

Hi Dano,

Well, I would love to get a DML Golden Eagle, but they just don't seem to have the -5° Hook, which IMHO is a feature that I'd like to have. I've decided on the CMT Compound Miter & Radial Blade Part# 219.080.10 with the following characteristics:

10" dia.
80-Tooth
-5° Hook
5/8" Arbor
Grind - 4ATB+1TCG
Kerf - 0.118
Teflon coated
Approx. $80 + Shipping

I think this should be a smooth cutting blade that will allow clean miter cuts and reduce the climb that I'm currently experiencing.

I'll get a dedicated Rip blade also when the budget allows.

I checked out the SysteMatic blades also, but there again, could not find the -5° Hook.

Catch ya later,
Dave




Dave Brownscombe
Bringing Nature's Art to Task