I've reached the point where I've realized I can't progress past where I am now without a table saw. This happened far quicker than I originally anticipated. After the learning experience with "good enough for now" tools I've decided to get something better than I currently need in order to grow into it. Hence, the desire to purchace a cabinet rather than a contractor or benchtop saw. But, the Grizzly saw I had my eye on needs 220V and that's not currently an option for me. I'm hesitant to get the hybrid saw, which is Grizzly's only 110V "cabinet" option. So, what else is out there?
Other than the Griz, you ain't gonna get much of a cabinet saw for around a grand, less you can find one second hand.
The big Craftsman Hybrid has a 110/220 motor, the trunion is mounted to the cabinet (like cabinet saws) making adjustment of the blade to the miter groove easier. It also comes with a Besse rip fence for around your price.
With the exception of the Steel City model, other hybrids, I believe, mount the trunion to the table which means adjustment of the miter groove to the blade involves climbing underneath, loosening stuff, then holding the stuff in place while you tighten it back down like on a contractor saw, and less fun with more cabinet. The Steel City sells for a bit less, but has less fence than the Besse.
I'd think that the 110V would be the show stopper. I'm not aware of any cab saw that fits that requirement. 'Course I could be wrong; it's been about a year since I bought one....
Edit in: Then there's the "it's the Indian, not the arrow" adage. Dunno how many miles of stock that's gone through my Delta "Platinum" knock off contractor's saw, $409.00 (at the time) Tradesman "8000T". Put a commercial Beis on it and a Power Link belt, never needed more...
The problem you will find is that most cabinet saws are 3-5 hp . . . at 120v, 3hp will draw around 25-30 amps . . . way more than most 120v circuits are wired up for. You would need a special dedicated plug for the tool.
That said, if you have to rewire anyways, go for the 240v. Lots more options once you cross that threshold. ;)
Or, stay at 120v and go for a 2hp (or smaller) hybrid that will run safely in a 20amp plug . . . just be aware that with some hybrids, the motors are non-standard mounts (I remeber that being an issue with the Jet Supersaw anyways), so a later upgrade may not be in the cards.
You might find an older Unisaw with a 1-2hp motor....even then, most true 2hp motors need 220v or a 30 amp 110v circuit. Anything larger than that will need 220v.
The Steel and Craftsman hybrids with cabinet mounted trunnions are pretty substantial saws...400# plus. Not in the league of the industrial 3hp cab saws like a Uni or PM66, but it's been super for a hobbyist and there's been nothing I can't cut with relative ease. I'd love to own a General 650 someday, but I really don't feel disadvantaged at all with a hybrid, or a good contractor saw for that matter.
>So why is 220v not an option? It's not hard to run a line.
>As said, any saw 2 hp or more needs 220v.
As the place it will probably go is very near the circuit breaker, it may not be that bad (or it may be worse for all I know), I'll have to negotiate to see what an be done (it's not my house, it's my parents (hence the no major work rule). Considering my goal is hardword, It may pay to get a line run (how much could that cost?)
>Just as a thought- you said you can't do more without a
>tablesaw or specifically a cabinet saw? Do you have any TS
>I've been using the heck out of my Rigid TS, Contractors saw
>and thing thing still cuts like Buttah. Running Oak through
>the thing with issue. Dado's the works.
>Runs on 110V and cost is well under 1K.
>Just a thought.
No TS at all, I have a 7-1/4" craftsman miter saw that I got on sale for $70 which was adequate for my needs at the time (all of 2 weeks ago). But, if I need to cut anything wider than it's capable of, it's a pain to flip the wood over and that never works exactly as I want it. I also have a 7-1/4" Ryobi circular saw, but that's hardly the right tool for the job.
I've been flirting with putting in 220V, but as I won't be living here much longer and will be renting my next home, I don't think that's a practical solution. If the RIGID cuts Oak like you said, I may just go with it. Plus, it's available at HD, which makes my life a little easier.