This is a 10" Table saw, I have purchased a new blade and ever since I am getting a wobble cut and not the true cut I was use to. Did I not spend enough on the Blade ($30.00) or what can be my problem. I took it off again to make sure it was on correctly and tight.
Compound Miter Saw:
This is a 10" Sears and I am have a terriable time getting a true 45 degree cut off of it, The tops of my joint are always open 1/16th of an inch. Makes for a sloppy apperance, what am I doing wrong? I laid my 45 degree speed angle against the blade to check it and seems to be true. Is this a poor blade also?
Cheap blades are stamped out of a blank and are never flat. The problem with the table saw is the blade and it might be the chop saw. You need to spend 60 to 100 for a 10" blade to get one that is worth putting on the saw for anything other than framing construction work.
Forest, Oldham, are two brands that I have had good luck with.
High quality blades are machined and hammered to releave the stress. The are measured and guarenteed to have a very small runout 1 to 2 thousands.
I think your chop saw could just have that much runout on its own. I don't have a high opionion of Sears on any tool anymore. Buy one blade and try it on both machines andyou will know if it is the blade.
A $30.00, PUNCH PRESS BLADE PROVES THE RULE THAT YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. BUYING A FIRST CLASS BLADE RESOLVES HALF OF THE SITUATION. YOU NEED TO SPEND THE TIME TO PROPERLY ALIGN IT ON THE SAW. A MACHINED BLADE STABILIZER IS THE FINISHING TOUCH.
You could take the blade to a sharpening center and they MIGHT be able to hammer it true for you. So $20-$30 later you now have a $60 blade (but not realy). Go with Forrest -#1, CMT or DML -#2 or for throw aways you can use frued or delta. And yes, use a damn stabilizer. With a stabilizer and a quality blade the trunion on
your T.S, carriage on the R/A will not be as streesed. A trued blade will stay sharper longer also. With a wobbling blade you are essentialy plowing a dado each cut.
Sorry to hear you bought Craftsman.
I have no opinion regarding oldham blades. If they sent me one I'd try it.
Oh, and I'd like to pass on a pricey lesson. Direct drive T.S. or
R/A are prone to getting sloppy with the use of wobblers (dado blades), or wobbling blades. They don't seem to handle the stress. Most likely you'll find yourself realigning the motors carriage more than you should have to.
I saw the Oldham blade being demonstrated at a wood show. On an old sears saw the guy was able to make paper thin cuts in every kind of wood you can think of. He cut 8/4 oak like butter with not burn or saw marks. The cuts were every bit as good as the Forest blade being demo'ed at the same show. They use the same carbide as Forest and sharpen it the same way. I have bought two of their blades and find them to be of a much better quality than DML or frued that I have bought in the past. Very nice blade at the mid price.
I want to thank Lou and Sheldon for your founded advice it has turned my head. But I am not sure about Glens advice, since it was only worth $.02 I most likely won't follow it. Lou.. I have looked into a better blade to start but I just recently sent for a 12 1/2" Planer and making plans for a Dust control system, seems all my tools or wishes are above $250. So I do what I can, I have used many hand tools and planes doing my wood working for the last 30 yrs. I am getting ready to retire, have built my 1500 sq ft Log Home here in 150 acres of woods(in the Middle, 25 acres of it is mine.) and included a woodshop that I have longed for. It all takes time and all comes with pride. I hope to be as good a wood worker as Glen is someday, but am patient. Thanks for helping me on these questions.
I really recomend the Oldham blades, you can get a good combination blade for about $60.00 and I think it is as good as the 120.00 forest blade.
I know that tools are expensive. I have been buying tools for over 35 years and I am still at it. Don't tell my wife but we could have bought a whole house of furnature custom made for what I have invested in my shop. But then I would not have the pride that comes from a well made piece that I made myself.
If you have hand tool experience you are way ahead of most of the people that are here asking questions and I respect you for your efforts using hand tools.
The machines are just a way to speed up the rough work to get it ready for the work of the hand. That is why it is call craft.
With a good table saw, a planner and handtools, I would add a jointer but other here would disagree, you have all you might need to make realy nice work.
Have fun with your new occupation, I hope to join you in a few years.
I hope you realized I was being somewhat facetious.I certainly don't intend to be abrasive or boisterous(sp.) and my resounding appologies if I came across as such.I do have near 30yrs experiance at the craft and thouroughly enjoy passing swapping tips and tricks. I do alot of volunteer wood shops with kids though admittedly I've found my patience shortening.
As for the Oldham brand, next time I'm due for a replacement I'll give them a shot. When you say they're sharpened the same way do mean the tooth set is the same? Because aside from the balancing issue what makes Forrest stand out is their unique tooth set.
It is not just the tooth set it is the method the carbide is sharpened. If you take a look at most carbide tips under the microscope and check the grain pattern, you would be suprized how rough it is. If you look at the Forest and the oldham you will find a much smoother sharpper edge. The type of carbide and the quality of the sharpening equipment is the major reason. Poor sharping will destroy a great blade.