I'm thinking about buying a cabinet making bit set. I have a Ryobi 1&3/4 hp plunge router (1/4" collet), and I don't think that will run a panel raising bit. Am I wrong? If I'm right and I need to get a bigger router, what's the minimum acceptable horsepower on a router I can get away with.
I don't want to shell out $300 for one of those 3&1/4 hp jobs. Those things seem like a bad Tim Allen joke to me. Don't get me wrong; I'm sure they work fine. It's just...well, what are you routing, steel I-beams? Is there something they can do that a 2hp router can't (aside from power your car)?
While we're talking about cabinet making bit sets, anyone have any suggestions about good sets that are cheaper than most.
"I'm thinking about buying a cabinet making bit set. I have a Ryobi 1&3/4 hp plunge router (1/4" collet), and I don't think that will run a panel raising bit. Am I wrong?"
There might be a horizontal raised panel router bit out there somewhere that is 1/4" shank, but I wouldn't use it... either the profile would be too small or it would be dangerous... Use your tablesaw or a vertical raised panel bit to raise the panels, and the rail/stile bits for those cuts....
"If I'm right and I need to get a bigger router, what's the minimum acceptable horsepower on a router I can get away with."
Guess that depends on how patient you are... the smaller the horsepower, the less wood you'll be able to hog off in one pass. For the large raised panel bits, you'll need variable speed too, or else use the vertical raised panel bits.
"While we're talking about cabinet making bit sets, anyone have any suggestions about good sets that are cheaper than most."
(In my Forrest Gump voice) Cheaper is as cheaper does sir....
What Marc said. Two things you're gonna need to spin those big panel bits. HP and variable speed. Oh yeah, a 1/2" collet. Like Marc said, if there is a 1/4" panel raising bit (Horizontal) out there I don't think I would be prone to use it. The rail and stile bits I have seen are generally 1/2" also.
There are several sites for doing the raised panel on the table saw holding the panel upright with a tall fence attachment, but I have a different method described on my website at:
This method allows you to get a variable rounded cut with the workpiece lying flat on the table. This method was also in one of the mags recently, although they used slightly different methods like working off of the back side of the blade.
Thanks for the tip. I saw David Marks doing something like this on "WoodWorks" the other day. He was explaining how to find dead center on your table saw when my girlfriend decided to run the garbage disposal in the sink, so I didn't hear his instructions. (During one of the shows commercial breaks, DIY showed one of their commercials advertising the fact that their website has plans and instructions from their shows just in case you happen to be distracted during a crucial moment and miss some information. It felt as though I were being bludgeoned with a club labeled "IRONY.")
I think I can figure out the dead center, but if you have any tips on how to do it faster, I'd appreciate it.
You ask what does a 3 1/4 HP do that a 2 Hp can't do? It can put 1 1/4 more horses to work ,whats in 1 1/4 HP, not a lot when you are talking about 50 horses but we are talking about 2 vs 3 1/4 ,believe me it translates to abetter ,faster and not so hard on the motor and toolbits. If you are going to make panels get as big of a machine as you can. It will pay for itself in many ways.
Heres an analogy, I have been in a few fights in my time with two against one but I never won when it was 3 1/4 against 1, in fact I alsways got the chit kicked out of me!!!!Don't spare the horses my friend.
Wow, David Marks using his TS to raise panels!? He does some pretty nice stuff, though I find him a bit condescending, but that may be just me. Visited his site on the web and he does do some amazing stuff.
That was another area that the magazine article went way into, but it seemed tome to be wasted print, beyond just saying, find TDC. I long ago marked the center of my blade on my throat plates and it remains the same regardless of tilt or elevation.
If you are looking to raise panels with the larger diameter bits don't cut back on the HP. A 3 1/4HP router with variable speed soft start will do an excellent job and not be pushed to its limits as a 2Hp router will very likely be. I use a Freud which retails for 184.95 at the local box store which is a lot less than the 300.00 you mentioned and it has done an excellent job for me for the last 5 years. That's my 2 cents. :P
I checked out the router you talked about. She's a peach. Your two cents are appreciated--feel free, by the way, to throw anymore money that you care to my way. And don't just limit yourself to pennies, either. I could always use the cash to by some bits for my router.
>There might be a horizontal raised panel router bit out
>there somewhere that is 1/4" shank, but I wouldn't use it...
>either the profile would be too small or it would be
>dangerous...
MLCS has them, and they do have a smaller profile. Haven't used them.
Actually I own 2 of them. One of which stays in the table. For the money they can't be beat and since I am as tight as most when I shell out near $200 it has been squeezed real hard.:9 Good luck and have fun
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