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  1. #1
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    Dec 2003
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    Castaic, CA, United States.
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    87

    Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    A few months ago, I read a post where someone had mentioned seeing an article in one of the WW magazines regarding closing in the bottom of a contractor-style table saw for dust collection.

    Has anyone done this, or maybe can point me in the right direction? I'm hooking up my dust collection system in my garage, but I can't find anything to help with the dust off my ts... I've been trying to convince my wife this is a perfect reason to buy a cabinet saw, but she's just not going for it!

    Any help would be much appriciated... as always!

    Brian

  2. #2
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    Jan 2004
    Location
    Rochester, NY.
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    1,507

    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    This is a pic of someone else's setup that I "borrowed".
    http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...ChrisScart.jpg

    Regards,
    Scott

  3. #3
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Maine, USA.
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    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    Are you talking about a tablesaw dust hood?

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G1837

    Using an accessory like that, in addition to something like this (at newwoodworker.com) can really help your tablesaw dust collection:

    http://www.newwoodworker.com/jetdust.html

  4. #4
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    Jan 2005
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    Kentucky, USA.
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    349

    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    I think he means closing in the legs of a contractors saw with sheet metal or ply making a box so you can hook a DC up to it.

    If this is what you are going for I would use 1/2" or even 1/4" ply. Depending on which saw you have and the type of legs it has bolting the ply on with lag screws would probobly work. A little weather stripping between the ply and the legs at the seams would seal it up nicely.

    I suppose cutting the bottom would be the hardest part, since it would probobly have some funny angles to it.

    Thats a good idea though, I may have to try it. I have a Ridgid TS3650 and it has OK duct collection. The blade and arbor have a plastic sheild around them with a 2+1/2" DC connection. But alot of the suction is lost because they couldn't completely seal up the arbor area. So when the saw is on the blade still blows wind (and dust) in your face even with a 2HP DC running. :( This would also allow for a direct 4" connection... Yep I'm definatly going to try this.

  5. #5
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    Aug 2007
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    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    I enclosed my craftman table saw with 1/4" ply wood and put a clean out door on the bottom. If I had a dust collection system I would use a floor cleaning duct on the back of it to suck all the dust out. I just used self taping scews and bolted it right to the legs. Works great for me a lot less mess and keeps the dust down in my shop. Hope this helps you out.

    Days without wood working aren't worth getting up for.
    Glenmore

  6. #6
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Memphis, TN, USA.
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    959

    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    Rob,

    That's pretty much the setup I have on mine and while it does help, it still doesn't do a real good job. The Griz dust hood is too small for my saw (Delta contractor's saw) so I used duct tape to seal the edges. Since the sides are flat, dust collects in mounds on the sides and stays there until you go in and clean it out.

    I have a RAS so don't do a lot of cuts on the table saw that are not 90's, so I enclosed the back with a 1/4" sheet of plywood that allowed for the belt, but no allowance for tilting. It's just a friction fit, so I can just pull it off whenever I do need to make a mitered cut. I thought this would help with the dust removal, but it doesn't help much (see above).

    While the dust collection isn't real good, it does contain the dust for the most part under the table. The real culprit now is the dust coming off the blade on the top side of the table. I have Delta's overhead guard (Uniguard) and while that and the splitter that came with it increase the safety of the saw, it doesn't help with the dust collection. I also use a zero clearance insert which probably hinders the dust collection too.

    Just thought I'd let you know how these items you suggested actually work.

    Bob R

  7. #7
    Member
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    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sugar Hill, Georgia.
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    1,471

    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    I did a very similar thing with mine. The exception is that I put a toilet flange on the bottom that my DC hooks into. Actually, the idea was one of "Today's Tips" from this site.

  8. #8
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    Nov 2004
    Location
    Central, Illinois, USA.
    Posts
    331

    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    Brian-

    http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx...&FamilyID=5206

    Check out this hood. I have this one installed on my contractors saw. I like it because it's tapered as opposed to flat. It does the job.



  9. #9
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    Sep 2004
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    Maine, USA.
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    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    >That's pretty much the setup I have on mine and while it
    >does help, it still doesn't do a real good job. The Griz
    >dust hood is too small for my saw (Delta contractor's saw)
    >so I used duct tape to seal the edges.

    I was providing that link primarily because it was the first dust hood I found for tablesaws. Of course, one should measure for their own machine and buy an appropriately sized dust hood.

    > Since the sides are
    >flat, dust collects in mounds on the sides and stays there
    >until you go in and clean it out.

    I don't see this as a problem. I don't expect the inside of my machine to be completely dust free. The purpose of the dust collection, as I see it, is to control airborne dust. As long as it does that, I don't really care if some dust collects in the corners of the machine; if it's in the corners of the machine, it's not in my lungs.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Castro Valley, California.
    Posts
    1,913

    RE: Enclosure for Contractor's Table Saw

    Brian,

    I have a Delta saw that has one of those sloping trays on the legs. So I decided to close the leggs in with hard board, and then pick up a $3 HVAC 10" X 4" reducer at the big box. Works great and costs less than most of the DC flanages.

    Good luck.

    Blessings,

    --Mark

    [link:garageshop.org/ | Mark's Garage Shop]

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