finishing shop jigs

[bluekey88]

I'm goign to be building a number of needed shop jigs (crosscut and mitre cut sled, sliding rip fence sled, etc) and I have a couple of questions.

1) Is there any difference in what kind of hardwood plywood I use? Is one kind bette rthan others or can I go with what is most comfortable to my wallet (without skimping on quality)?

2) What is a good way to finish most shop jigs? Poly? Laquer?

Thanks again for the advice,
Peace,
Erik

[Danford C Jennings]

Eric,

Most of my jigs are made of 3/4" Baltic Birch ply; there are a few made of Birch stock and Maple stock. For example; my taper jig and cove jig are of Birch and my bracket foot post jig is of Maple on a 3/4" Baltic Birch ply base.

Normally, I don't apply a finish to my jigs other than a light coat of paste wax on the bottom of the surfaces that will slide. The exception would be my bracket feet jig; I oiled the post with boiled linseed oil.

My approach to jigs is to use scrap and on jigs were guides, fences, runners, etc. are concerned I generally use a tight grained hardwood such as Birch or Maple. Ofcourse, much depends on the jig itself and whether or not it is a "one off" or will be used regularly.

Dano

[bluekey88]

Dano,
Thanks for the info. Exactly what I was looking for.

Peace,
Erik

[WoodMangler]

Baltic Birch (BB)ply, no finish, BB miter runners

http://home.earthlink.net/~woodmangl...Yfrontview.jpg


BB and Maple

http://home.earthlink.net/~woodmangl...nnJigFront.jpg

Dano's suggestions are right on the money...I've tried all kinds of stuff and the BB seems to work the best.

[Steven Wilson]

I use 1/2" or 3/4" baltic birch plywood for jigs that I intend to keep. As for a finish I wipe on a few coats of shellac; not enough to get a beautifully deep finish, just enough to get some build. It takes about an hour to do and seals the wood nicely.

As for shop cabinets I use 3/4" birch plywood from the BORG and birch stock; finish is shellac.

[Chris Moore]

For jigs and fixtures that I intend to use repeatedly and often, I prefer MDO. For occasional use jigs that I intend to keep, I like baltic birch plywood. For "one-off" jigs, I use what ever is lying around the shop that will get the job done. I don't usually finish any of them other than some wax on the sliding surfaces.

Chris Moore
Montgomery, AL

"... and remember, there is no more important safety rule than to wear these - safety glasses."

[bluekey88]

thanks to all for the pictures. I'll be buying some baltic birch and some maple and making some jigs ove rht enext couple fo weeks.

Peace,
Erik

[Chris Moore]

While you're out and about, stop by a local sign shop or two. If you ask nicely, they will most likely be glad to give you some MDO scraps - which may too small for sign work, but plenty big enough for small shop jigs. You may have to dig through their scrap bin, but the material is worth the effort. If you like using MDO, ask the fellows at the sign shop if they will sell you some of their stock or order it from their supplier for you. MDO can be a little pricey and the sign shop will definitely get a much better price than you can get at your local wood supplier if they carry it at all - the big box stores don't.

Chris Moore
Montgomery, AL

"... and remember, there is no more important safety rule than to wear these - safety glasses."

[JMack]

>For jigs and fixtures that I intend to use repeatedly and
>often, I prefer MDO.

Help me out, please MDO Medium Density ???????

Thanks,
JMack

[Danford C Jennings]

Overlay.

Dano