I applied a coat of MinWax golden oak oil based stain sealer (yellow can) to the red oak top on the new desk I'm making. I had a problem that required me to sand off the surface and then re-stain before putting on the fininsh. As I was sanding the top, I noticed that several sections of heavy grain started to bleed stain. When I first applied the stain, I left it on for 5 minutes and then wiped off the excess. The stain dried to the touch in about 1/2 hour. Everything looked normal. This was last Sunday. The bleeding did not occur until I started the sanding process. Is this normal? I don't think so. I have since completed the final sanding and recoated the top again, and all appears normal. It has dried to the touch and shows no signs of bleed through, but that was also the way it was before. Is there a chance that the stain could bleed through at some time in the future or will it eventually dry itself up? For my protective finish, I am planning to give it one or two coats of de-waxed shellac and then two or three coats of Varathane Professional semi-gloss. I'm afraid that if I don't use the shellac, the stain may bleed through at a latter time. Anyt thoughts on how to proceed.
When I wiped the stain, I actually did a "rubbing out" not just a quick wipe. It was also 4 days before I detected a problem that I had to sand out. I intend to put the shellac on this Saturday and hopefully the first of the poly coats on Sunday. I live in Phoenix, so I'm able to do this in the garage. Daytime temps are in the mid 60s and evening temps in the mid to upper 40s in the garage. Could the cooler evenings be affecting the curing of the stain finish?
Didn't use panty hose, but went through several tee-shirt type of painters rags. The only thing the desk had done to it was a mineral spirits wipe about four to five days before the stain application.
Azarby, that is a beautiful desk! Use the shellac to seal it - that is what it is famous for and your peace of mind will be well worth the extra step.
I don't think the temps had anything to do with the bleeding...I live in the neighbor state to your east with a similar climate and have not had that happen with Min Wax stains, which I use a lot. I have had some pine and redwood knots start oozing sap after the stain was put on which must have made the sap more fluid, but it doesn't look like you have any sappy knots in that desk.
As an aside, if you had to sand the first application of stain off that desk, then, man I feel for you...that had to be a tough job!
Best of luck, and be sure to post a pic when you are done.
Thanks for the shellac suggestion. As for the sanding, it was only on the large writing surface. I some how got a slight waviness in the top, that I didn't catch before the staining. It was one of those things that you can't normally see, but can "feel" it when the surface becomes smoother from the stain/sealer application. It was only a half hours worth of effort to correct it. My wife said she couldn't even tell it was there. I found that if you close your eyes and rub your hands cross grain over the surface, you can feel imperfections as small as a thousandth or two. That's one of those things you notice and if you don't fix it, years latter you will keep saying to yourself " If I only....".
A good trick to find those imperfections before you stain is to wipe down with mineral spirits before staining. Not only does it help clean the sawdust off, it will show any imperfections. I think you had done that, but sometimes you have to get the right viewing angle to see any flaws. I've had to learn that the hard way...more than once! You'd think I'd learn.
I had the same problem with Minwax Golden Oak and Natural stain that I'd applied to some cabinet drawers. After I wiped it off it looked even and the next morning there were random wet streaks on the wood (red oak). After a few days of this I got tired of rubbing and took the drawers out into the garage and put them in the shop cabinets. They were dry after about a week but I haven't stained the doors or rails and stiles yet. I stained a red oak threshhold with the same type of stain and had no problems. ?? OLD DON
Just a quick update. I put on two coats of de-waxed shellac over the Minwax stain. The first was a straight 2 lb cut out of the can and the second was thinned not quite 50/50 with DNA. I let it dry over night and everything looks good. No bleed through noticed and all nice and dry. I then gave it a 320 sanding and put on the first coat of Varathane Pro. This is really starting ot look good now. I intend to do another 320 sanding and apply the second coat of Varathane either during the next few nights or for sure next week end. At that time I'll make the decision on whether to go to three coats or not. If I do go to three coats, I'll skip the third coat on the Tambour as I am trying to minimize buildup between slats.
What grade sandpaper should I use after the final coat of poly?