Used Router hickups

[dZign Tank]

oh, one difference is that mine comes with 2 knobs to hold onto it seems...

it looks like the handle is for the right hand, and there is a clear piece attached at the very bottom of the base that extends and has a little black knob to hold onto with the left hand.

hopefully that helps.


the one in the picture just has a handle, how are you suppose to keep it steady?

[Sawduster]

Porter Cable is somewhat known for the versatility of its tools. The two top pics are basically the same router with two of the available basis. The bottom left one uses the same motor, or the current equivalent of the same motor but with a plunge base. The two rods connecting the base to the upper section act like plungers with springs inside to push the upper section back up. This allows you to do work where you need to plunge the bit straight down into the work as opposed to starting at an edge or by tipping the router into the work.

Porter Cable offered (and still does with a new model version) a kit which included a single motor, and a fixed base (the one with the two handles), and a plunge base. I have an older version of that kit and the fixed base stays mounted to my router table. The motor simply screws in and out of the base allowing me to take the motor out easily to change bits etc. I use the plunge base for any hand held work I need to do.

The collar is that black ring on the fixed base model with the numbers and increments marked on it. It is an indexing mechanism for andjusting the depth of the cutter in very small increments.

You may mean Collet as opposed to collar, and that is the hex nut looking thing on the end of the motor shaft that holds the bits. Two were/are available for the model that came in the kit, a 1/4" and a 1/2". This denotes the diameter of the shaft of the router bits it holds.

Within the last few years they have added a few different versions of the motors which fit those kit bases. They increased the horsepower, added soft start and motors are available either in a single speed version and a variable speed version.

[Sawduster]

Oh, and the clear base on yours is an after-market addition. If yours has a dial for adjusting the speed of the motor it is probably one of the earlier variable speed models.

These companies have, for some reason, decided it was necessary to screw around with the model numbering methodology making it more difficult for folks to figure out what is what.

[dZign Tank]

do you know what type of base the one with the handle is called?

id just like to locate "some" manual to figure out whats going on.....

thanks!

[Sawduster]

The one with the handle is a "D-Handle Fixed Base".

The router model designation was 690.

[dZign Tank]

you, my friend, are the man...

http://portercable.cpoworkshop.com/r...ther/6911.html

so then, it says here that it only works with a 691 router.... is this conflicting to my router/motor when it says model 5732?

thanks!

[dZign Tank]

yeah i don't think this can be a 690 series....

both the motor and the base start with 57

i can't find a single thing on this unit online...

what gives.

[rrich]

The top two pictures that you have shown us are the PC 690 series. Usually they added another number to designate which base was originally sold with the router. If all three bases came with the router a "K" was added to the model number designation.

The three bases available are:
(Upper Left) "D" Handle and functionally the same as a fixed base. There is usually a round, screw in handle on this base also.

(Upper right) Fixed base

(Not Shown) Plunge base

The depth of the cut is adjusted by rotating the motor unit in the base. Usually, you set the cutting depth of the bit to zero or just barely touching the surface of the wood. Tighten the clamp in this position. Then adjust the black ring with all the numbers on it to align zero with the line that is scored in the motor body. Next loosen the clamp and turn the base so that the line in the motor body aligns with the desired depth of cut. Tighten the clamp and you're ready to cut. If you're holding it in your hand, cut left to right (Move the router left to right). If you put the router in a table (Hanging upside down) you cut right to left. (Move the stock right to left)

The router (PC 690) is capable of using bits up to about 1-1/2" in diameter. If you have or build a router table for this router, it is the safest way to use a router. Just remember that a fence for a router table is used exactly the opposite of a table saw fence. A router fence is used to keep the bit away from the stock. A router fence has a hole in it for the bit. The stock rides along the fence and is cut only by the amount of the bit that is exposed through the hole in the fence.

Many years ago, I built a router table for a Craftsman 7/8 HP router. It stayed in that table for almost all of its life. The PC 690 has a bit more horse power so it will work just fine in a router table.

Oh, yeah. PC was acquired by somebody recently. He who does the acquiring has all the power. The PC model numbers have been changed and forced to fit into the acquiring company's computer data base. Yes, I know, stupid and confuses the customers. BTDT, too.

[dcarter636]

Have you tried looking [link:www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2810|here] at the 75XX series routers? Porter Cable has downloadable parts lists and manuals for every power tool I've ever bought with their name on it.

[dZign Tank]

ok so

i know for sure this isn't the 690.

after closer inspection the label says

Model 5372
8.0A
23,000 RPM

the d-base is
model 5371

so for sure this isn't the 690, it seems to be the older version of the 690.

i guess i'll just go off the manual of the 690.