1/4" Aluminum good enough for Router/Setup table?

**CajunRider** · 07-23-2004, 06:19 AM

I found the top of an old medical equipment table. It is 1/4" x 23" x 66" aluminum. It also has two 1/8" x 1 1/2" x 5" channels running along the entire 66" length. The channels are bolted to the top. The top has a dozen of 1/4" holes that used to be used for mounting equipment. The whole thing seems pretty stiff and true. I am thinking about using it for my router/setup table. Do you think it's strong enough or should I top it with a sheet of some thing? I'd hate to do that since the 1/4" aluminum get my router really close to the surface without losing any depth.

As always, I am grateful for any advice.

**benchmark** · 07-23-2004, 07:00 AM

Quarter inch aluminum would make a great insert plate. As far as the structure you describe making it sturdy enough, I wouldn't be able to say. If it wasn't, you could always build a new structure for it and you can of course cut the table down too if you wanted it to be smaller.

You can also fill the existing holes with epoxy if you wished, I did this on my saw.

PMB
http://benchmark.20m.com

**Limey** · 07-23-2004, 08:28 AM

Bear in mind that naked Aluminium is wicked at marking wood.. no problems if it is anodised.
Also unless heavily waxed{or anodised) the Al will be "grippy"
FWIW

Limey

**TDHofstetter** · 07-23-2004, 10:12 PM

"Cage", I'd think that full-size that sheet of material wouldn't be rigid enough unless it had more support underneath... like stretchers under a tabletop. Cut it down, though, or add stretchers to it... or add something like MDF to most of the BOTTOM (leaving a hole around the router), and that'd make a good table.

Check to see if it's anodized: Try rubbing a hunk of wood on the surface; use an edge or a corner of the wood. See if it leaves colored marks on the wood. If not, you're probably all set. If so, you might check into getting it deep-anodized (in your yellow pages under "Plating"... you can get it clear-anodized or color-anodized, but it should be DEEP to prevent wearing through the anodized layer.

OR you could wax the snot out of it... or cover it with plastic laminate (wouldn't add much to the thickness) or even topcoat it with polyurethane (which probably won't adhere well to the alumin(i)um unless you score it with 220-grit sandpaper first).

Neat stuff. Cuts nicely with woodworking tools, long's you make more passes to get the job done and PROTECT YOUR MOTORS from the little metal flakes.

How much did it cost you?

-- Tim --

Woodworking.com...
Know deposit,
Know return.

**CajunRider** · 07-23-2004, 11:34 PM

Here is what the top looks like. With the channels and the braces, it may be stiff enough. I've drilled a 2 1/2" hole for the router already as you can see. It was anodized but I had to sand away since there were some pits. I sanded with 220 grit and plan to sand again up to 600 until it's a smooth as a baby's butt. Then I'll wax the snot outta it like you say and see how things go. If that doesn't work then I'll put a laminate on top of it. By the way, my brother in law gave it to me along with the lathe. It came with a big steel cabinet with drawers and locking caster etc... I just didn't have the room to take the cabinet. I'll pick the cabinet up later when I travel up to Ohio again.

CjR

http://thevu.homeip.net:8080/Duc-Hie...luminumtop.jpg

**TDHofstetter** · 07-23-2004, 11:41 PM

The way it's boxed up like that with the channel, it might just be pretty good. Cool!

You do know that alumin(i)um is worth about $4US per pound, don't you? That represents a fair number of pounds... and it's in a good handy shape, too.

Great snare!

-- Tim --

Woodworking.com...
Know deposit,
Know return.