How attach cabinet face frame to carcass?

[wayne86]

How do you best mount a cabinet face frame?

I have already made a carcass and it has raised panels on both sides. I now want to use a face frame to mount 3 doors (previously was just going to edge mount). How should I attach the face frame so that I dont have to drill or mar up the raised panel sides? The side railes are about 2" wide using 3/4" oak.

I was just going to build the face frame as a unit then attach to carcass. Face frame will probably be about 1.5" wide using 3/4" oak. I have a biscuit cutter I could use to biscuit around the edge of the carcass w/matching cuts in back of frame, then glue and clamp. But since there would be constant weight of doors/frame pulling frame away in line with the bisquits, it doesnt seem like the bisquits provide much strength in that orientation and its all glue for strength with no mechanical attachment.

Thanks for any tips.

[estein01]

I prefer to use railroad ties. Just kidding. When I am using face frames that will have weight on them, I will use pocket screws, biscuits and glue. That hasn't let me down yet.

Eric

[TDHofstetter]

Heavy stuff?

How about chamfered cleats fastened inside the face frame? Tucked out of sight just behind the frames?

-- Tim --

Veni, vidi, vici
I came, I saw, I hammered.

:)

[wayne86]

not unusually heavy Id guess. 3 doors with glass, each door about 16"w x 30" tall.

Pocket screw setups seemed awfully pricey for the little use Id have.

Chamfered cleats......is that like a little corner block screwed into adjacent sides? Im not sure there will be enough of the faceframe to grab with screws with only a 3/8 or so overlap. I probably dont know what a chamfered cleat is.

worse to worse, I guess I can just screw through the front of face frame and hide hole with oak plug.

[TDHofstetter]

I'm thinking either little corner blocks or full-length cleats (think kinda' like piano hinges) screwed to the inside of the frame (yeah, 3/4" is PLENTY of room for it) and the inside of the carcase. Chamfered just so they're not sharp-cornered blocky things; the chamfer makes 'em kinda' stylish when someone catches a glimpse of 'em.

-- Tim --

Veni, vidi, vici
I came, I saw, I hammered.

:)

[Tom D]

Biscuits and glue should be plenty. I made and entire kitchen with all glass doors and used biscuits and glue. The wood would give before the biscuit glue joint would.

[buildthis]

I would stay away from any type of fastening through the front of the face frame to the carcass unless you are painting it. Biscuits and glue are very strong if done properly. Make sure when you use your biscuit joiner that they match up perfectly or else your face frame will not sit properly. The cleat option is always there as well, however will be a bit more work on your part. I always try the simple most effective ways to build stuff.

[cabinetman]

Titebond II or III and clamps works just fine.
:)
:)
:)
"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[JCCLARK]

This is still the way I do all my furniture.Wether it's flush with
the sides or offset like kitchen cabinets (like shown)
A tongue and groove joint.
For flush I glue them up with the frame proud just a hair
then trim with a flush cut router bit.Perfect fit
Quick,simple, and strong.
I build all my frames first and fit everything to them.



Jim C.

[Danford C Jennings]

Wayne,

"Best" is fairly subjective...Most production shops simply glue and nail, some just glue. In our case, we groove/rabbet, glue, and clamp; which is the traditional method. Our face frames are mortised and tenoned.

The biggest advantage to this method becomes most apparent during assembly; when the face frames are put on the cabs, they essentially self square the front of the cab. When the back is attached it will square up the rest. Ocassionally you might be a 16th or so out of square, by clamping on the diagonal it's a simple matter of tweaking the cab into square when the back is put on...FWIW.

Dano