Tapering on table legs

[tackless]

I am building a dining table and have decided to put a taper in the legs rather than turning. This is my problem. The material is Koa and is in 4" x 4" x 32" pieces ( 4 of them). I wish to maintain the 4"X 4" at the apron end and taper to 2 3/4" to 3" at the bottom. I would start the taper about 1" below where the apron joins the leg. To attach the leg I am using a combination of mortise and tenon and brackets on hangers.

My bandsaw will not handle the 4". Aside from finding a friend with a bigger bandsaw is there another way to accomplish the task of tapering? The other part of the question is should I cut the legs to my finished size of 29 1/2" before tapering?

[beamerweb]

Bandsaw was my first thought. Another common way is with a tablesaw, but your depth of cut may run you into trouble. Other options include passing them over a jointer a million times (there's a technique, but it's kinda slow going, imho) or making nice with someone who has a bigger bandsaw. Though with a bandsaw, you'll probably want to run 'em through the jointer quick to get the blade marks out anyway.

As for wether to cut to final length or not, i say yes. In fact, do ALL your joinery and everything else while it's still square. Taper last, if you can. Makes for a much easier joinery session.

[beamerweb]

Ope! one more alternative ...

Cut yourself a template out of 1/2" ply or mdf and use your router to make the tapers real nice. Since you plan to take an inch off the bottom, though, it'd probably be wise to rough cut them as best you can on the TS by flipping the piece over. It means coming up with a way to reverse your taper, which may be tricky, though.

If this were my project, i'd make a template that has the taper profile i want, full size. Stick it on my leg blank and trace it. Rough cut it on an adequate bandsaw, about 1/16" away from the lines. Then stick the pattern to the leg on one side and use my router with a flush trim bit to cut as deep as possible. Flip the pattern over and cut the rest. Hopefully you can get more than 2" per flip with your router. Once you've established a flat surface with the bit, you can use it as the pattern, saving you 1/2" in thickness, if need be.

[tackless]

Thanks beamer, I like the template idea, even if it is just to see if I like my taper dimensions. Also thanks for the tip on doing the joinery before I taper. Oh for a friend with a huge bandsaw.

[beamerweb]

To bad yer way out there in the Cajon!

I'd be happy to cut the tapers on my saw for ya. :)

[TDHofstetter]

Welcome to the forum, Bart! :)

Got a jointer? That'd be my preferred technique. Tapering on the jointer is pretty easy & trouble-free. Leaves you with a decent finish, too, with very little cleanup.

-- Tim --

Naked,
Green,
...and having a FIELD DAY...
:)

[tackless]

Thanks Tim glad to be here,
I do not have a jointer, but I do have a Power Hand planer with a 2" blade, problem is controlling the thing. It gets with the program. And Koa is tough stuff. Probably need to practice on some scrap. Perhaps even build a jig of some sort.

One thing I can say about this forum is you all are making me think, which is a good thing. I have a tendency to move to the easiest solution, and that's not always the best way.

[TDHofstetter]

Yeah, no. I don't think I'd do it with a powered hand planer - that's really best suited for construction projects (like trimming rafters & joists & such).

especially on Koa... what a NEAT wood! :)

Unpowered handplane? After it's been tuned & fully sharpened? That'd do the job nicely. Lots of time, though. Very pleasant work, on the other hand, very quiet & relaxing. Also very tolerant of recalcitrant woods, when it's well-sharpened & the job's done right.

Last resort for powered tools... a guide ramp and a router with a straight bit would do the job, too.

-- Tim --

Naked,
Green,
...and having a FIELD DAY...
:)

[rhull]

I know it's not the "popular" idea, but you could do it with a hand saw and/or a hand plane. Mark out the waste portion. You can saw close to the line with a rip saw, then clean up with a jack plane, or just do the whole thing with a jack plane. No complicated setup required! :7

Edit:
Personally, I'd probably cut with an eastern saw to reduce waste, then plane to the line to finish it. Those taper cutoffs could certainly be used for something else, at the price of koa

Koa planes really nicely, working with the grain and a sharp blade. I had a small piece I worked for a project, and it was a pleasure...nice glass-smooth finish with a hand plane.

[tackless]

I need to take my time and approach this thing in the right way. My first choice is a power tool, but then there are the tried and true methods of saws and planes. It is very pretty wood so I am looking to save as much as I can, but the object is to taper the legs. You have all given me some great suggestions. I now have some decisions to make. Thanks a bunch and if any more ideas pop up pass them on, I am a few days away from doing the deed.

Bart