woodturning high friction polishes and sanding sealers

[paloverde4]

.Hi, I am looking for a formula that I can make my own high build friction polish and a cellulose sanding sealer that I can for my woodturnings. I currently use the Mylands brand of High Build Friction Polish and the Cellulose Sanding Sealer but because of the number of turnings that I make these products are somewhat pricey for me. Or maybe someone can tell me what other products I can use on my woodturnings while the turnings are still on the lathe in lieu of the Mylands products that might not be as pricey.
Thanks,

Gabe

[Limey]

I do not use Sanding Sealers any longer after listening to someone on the forum ..Howie Atchison.. who explained that they contained Stearates which could lead to compatability problems on later coats.
I'd previously been using sanding Sealer for years without trouble but then a year ago nearly I had a big disaster with a cradle I was making which I'm sure was due to the top finish not adhering to the very slippery stearate containing Sanding Sealer.
So I couldn't and wouldn't know how to replicate Sanding Sealer
But Mylands High Friction build might be easier to copy,
Basically its a mix of alcohol,waxes and shellac. Mainly shellac I would guess.
You will have to do some experimenting but I would be certain that Carnauba Wax is in there some where.
Everyone knows that I will drive to the next State to save 10 cents on a gallon of gas... so I have developed a way of using no more than I need. Wondered why the make the container with a 1" cap ?. Well you use it faster and as most will harden on the cloth you go through it faster than a drunk through a bottle of Vodka!
So here's what you do ...... Get one of those laboratory poly dispensers with a right angle spout and a tiny tiny hole.....Marilyn is bound to know what they are called.... then you can squirt the number of drops you need onto your pad and then keep refreshing it as you go. The first half of my Mylands went insde a month, I'm down to a quarter nearly a year later.
I really out do myself sometimes.

Cheers Limey

PS the tiny hole effectively seals over so that it doesn't evaporate.
To start it going again just give it a sharp flick with your finger and it's ready to go.

[dicklaxt1]

Well now we got something else to learn...........damn

dick

[volleyheads]

The usual mixes, like Limey says, are some type of shellac, mixed with an oil and a evaporative carrier. Some of the blends are fairly simple, 1/3:1/3:1/3 mixes of the following types of materials

Shellac or waxes: blonde or other color shellac and Beeswax and/or carnauba wax (pure carnauba is some tough stuff, so it is usually diluted with a softer beeswax or even paraffin wax

Oils: Boiled Linseed oil or Tung oil most commonly, Danish oil is also a good choice

Carrier/Solvents: Denatured Alcohol, Turpentine, mineral spirits etc

You can vary the mixtures and get different colors, builds etc. It seems everyone has their own favorite. I would say to play with these and design your own.

A good starting point would be 1/3 Watco Danish oil, 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 Mineral Spirits. This is not to be used on a large item, since the turning speed won't heat up the area enough. I would say use on smaller diameter items, say under 4-6". Turn speed up and apply

Option #2: Try this one

Zinsser SealCoat diluted 25% with mineral spirits. Keep it in a squeeze bottle and shake it often since it separates. Really nice stuff and could/should be cheaper.

Best Regards,

Bill

"If it is worth doing, it's worth overdoing"