Any of you turners wonder if things might be too sharp?
Seems I'm having troubles achiving as smooth a results as I did when I first started out.
Granted, this is a green chunk of Eucalipus I was playing with, but it wants to misbehave a lot. Probably just the wood.
Also, I seem to be having more difficulties hollowing. I'm using a scraper, like I have in the past. But it either wants to make dust or grab on. Do you suppose the edge is too honed?
I was thinking of trying grinding it and no honeing. There agian, it may just be a bugger of a chunk of wood.
I have it in the chuck and a live center on the tail piece, grain logintuginally.
It could be the wood, it could be the way you are using the tool has helped, it could be the grind angle/shape is slightly different from what you formerly were using, or there could be a non-sharp spot on the tool. But I would say almost definitely, that the tool isn't too sharp. Some people also report better turning results without the honing and using the burr. I personally can't tell the difference. One other thought may be a variable or multi-bevel could cause you a lot of difficulty
Longituginally. You know, like you'd put it on a splitter to splitter it in half.
I'm getting to where I will cut a chunk out and do a natchal edged bowl. But I just wanted to try things out and stuck this chunk on der lather and spin her up.
Worked great with the sharp edges onna outside. but that end grained inside is a crabby-grabby.
And when I try and make a s-m-o-o-o-t-h pass onna outside, I get funny stuff. I even have a spiral spot, foolin around.
And the fansy britches gouge grabs on on the inside honking bad. But I tried a smaller gouge in there and it cought SO BAD it about flung it off the lathe. If the live center hadn't been there, for sure's it would have been a badden. I was able to center up up good enough to even her up agian.
I think I'll pitch it in the wood pile and try something else. :(
Carn-sarned-rattzen-frattzen, frattzen-rattzen, foolery poop-stain, crackin-jackson fallderall! :P
(Gotta be carefull, but I suppose there will be some wiener that gets offended even with that. Buncha crap!)
But that wax dip has sure held in the moisture, I tell you! That stuff is every bit as wet as when I cut her up and dipped the ends in wax.
Here is the way they set up natural edge bowl turning at the retreat.split the log section in approx half, cut out approx 7 1/2" dia on bandsaw. using live center and spur drive with spur drive in the bark and live center on the split turn outside of bowl first in corporating a tenon at the tail stock part it nearly off and finish with a Jap Saw. Chuck it up in your Talon Chuck and turn the inside,sand to suit inside and outside and part off tenonwith a slight angle to top of bowl..............
>Here is the way they set up natural edge bowl turning at the
>retreat.split the log section in approx half, cut out approx
>7 1/2" dia on bandsaw. using live center and spur drive
>with spur drive in the bark and live center on the split
>turn outside of bowl first
Yeah, I got that part.
> in corporating a tenon at the
>tail stock part it nearly off and finish with a Jap Saw.
OK, here's where I get fuzzy. If I make a tenon at the tail stock, (lathe tail stock?) wouldn't that be the inside of the bowl when I flip it around?
And if so, howz I gonna work around the chuck?
I thought youz was supposed to make the tenon on the bottem (the curved barky part), then chuck it and work onna the inside of the bowl. Or a dovetailed recess in the intended bowl bottem.
Or in other words, put the split side to the spur drive and the intended bottem to the live center. Then round her up and cut in the tenon.
OK, Maybe I got it. You put the tenon on the split side. Then when you turn it around and chuck it to holler it out you'll get that natchal edge from wallerin a hole in the normally curved side that used to be the outside of the tree. (?)
Hummm.... OK, I'll play with it.
>Chuck it up in your Talon Chuck and turn the inside,sand to
>suit inside and outside and part off tenonwith a slight
>angle to top of bowl..............
>you got it baby???
Probably not, but we'll find out. It would be firewood otherwise. So nothing ventured, nothing gained. It's probably about time I bounced a chunk off the house door anyway. LOL. :)
Second version is what you needed. Just a confirmation. Natural/bark side toward tailstock frits, turn tenon at tailstock and blend into bottom towards headstock which will be the top rim/natural edge of the bowl. Then reverse, mount tenon in chuck and hollow inside. Be careful to not push the gouge into the wood when in the interrupted area of the natural edged bowl or a great big catch will make for a very bad day. Slow and gentle here and finish with the shear cut using the bowl gouge as explained a few times before. Make sure the pressure on the tool is down into the tool rest and not into the wood. Otherwise besides the catch, the tear out on the edges will be bad as well.
No thats not right Bill.Bark goes to spur drive first this puts the bottom of bowl towards tail stock turn outside tapering towards tail stock and turn tenon at tail stock,then turn around and chuck tenon up and turn inside of bowl cutting thru bark ,leaving bark around edges
One other tip after you have turned the outside you now have the bark ref of the outside this is the time to super glue bark area if it needs it, make sure glue is dry before turning as it will sure go for the eyes
PS............when turning the outside turn from the tail stock to the head stock..............at first glance this will seem like you are turning up hill and you are physically but the down hill tradition is slicing into the grain so it is down hill on the cut but up hill physically think about it