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  1. #1
    ed
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    help me repair a broken drawer front

    I am not sure how to fix this. A corner of the drawer front(face) broke off. Imagine a small triangle (2"X2"2.8") missing off the corner of the drawer front. I no longer have the missing piece, so I'll have to fabricate it.

    The drawer front (which detaches from the drawer body thank goodness) is 5/8" particle board and it is faced with veneer (mahogany maybe?)

    How would you fix this questions:

    1)cut out a similar piece from mdf and veneer that or get real wood?
    2)how do i affix it? overlap, butt, inlay a piece of hardwood on the backside????????

  2. #2
    Member
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    North Stamford, Connecticut, USA.
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    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    You've not got an easy job there.

    Is it possible to make a new draw front?

    The two problems that you face are that particle board is not the best foundation to rebuid and then any join in the veneer is going to be highly visible.
    Getting the repair to be at the same level as the original flat and smooth would lead me to patch the corner with a solic piece of mahogany ....color texture issues ... and you would probably need to make the point of contact a straight line and fix with dowels. Thhis would make the repair highly visual.
    Pity you haven't got the piece that broke off as repair would have been an easy solution with it.

    Overall I think that you would be better contemplating replacing the complete front.

    Sorry I'm not more encouraging...but you never know somebody around here might have a solution.

    Cheers Limey

  3. #3
    ed
    Guest

    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    Limey thanks for the response.

    >You've not got an easy job there.>
    Thats why I've been putting it off for so long ;)

    >Is it possible to make a new draw front?>
    Good question. Well I figure if I screw up the repair then I have no choice.

    I plan on turning the drawer front so the broken corner is at the bottom of the drawer and its the last drawer in a desk pedestal. Hopefully with the damaged area that far down, the repair will be les obvious.

    I cant think of how to dowel the two accurately w/o a jig of some sort plus my doweling expirences thus far have been unfavorable. I'm contemplating an overlapping joint or a butt joint that is routed out the backside to lay in a piece of hardwood across the two for strength



  4. #4
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    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    Hi Ed,

    If it only one drawer front, I think you should just replace it too. With a solid piece. I one little piece of wood should be cheap enough to justify the time you'll save. Get a little extra so you can practice matching the finish.

    Repairing it sounds harder. Good luck!

  5. #5
    ed
    Guest

    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    Hi Jim, Limey

    just thinking about all the steps it will to take to repair it is wearing me out let alone wasting the better part of a Sunday! So, I am contemplating taking your's and limey's advice towards replacement.

    the piece I am replacing measures .620" and its 13"x18". will I have trouble finding one solid piece of mahogany that size without costing too much($30+ max). I dont have a hand planar or jointer (only a table saw, router, drill press)so I'm limited to how much I can do.

  6. #6
    Member
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    Nov 2001
    Location
    Portland, OR, USA.
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    101

    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    Ed,

    Replacing it would certainly be easier & look better than fixing it. However, I'm not sure you can do it for less than $30. If it's a PB core veneer front with the edges banded then you'll probably have to buy a whole sheet (more than $30). You could try asking a local cabinet shop if they happen to have any scraps laying around they'd sell. You may have to ask several shops before you find one. If you end up needing to fix it I would buy a piece of solid stock (probably under $30) that's about 3" wide & 20" long. Trim the piece to the exact width of your front (18") & plane it to the right thickness (5/8"). If you don't have a planer you could probably resaw it close to thickness on a tablesaw & sand in the rest. Then rip off 3" from the drawer front, removing the damaged area, with a table saw. Next, glue & clamp the drawer front & the solid stock together. Sand in & refinish when dry. When all's said & done it will look like boards glued together (like is commonly done with large drawer fronts). If you really wanted to get fussy you could make it just under 18" & retape the edges, but it may not be that critical if you're going to turn it repair side down & put it on the bottom. It may not look like all one piece, which I'm assuming your other do, either. Good luck.

    PS - Now that I think about it you could also just buy some 5/8" PB & veneer it yourself. Cost probably wouldn't be too bad.

  7. #7
    ed
    Guest

    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    UPDATE:

    I picked up a small sheet of mahogany veneer and some edgebanding for a good price thanks to these guys http://www.colco.net/index.html. By the way they were very helpful and reasonable.

    New problem: I went to all my local HD & Lowe's stores but was unable to find 5/8" MDF or MDO (they did have it in 12" widths, I need 13"). I've called around and so far no 5/8" mdf or mdo but I can get it special ordered......yikes!

    any ideas? BTW the drawer I'm replacing measures 5/8" total thickness even with veneer and backer.

  8. #8
    Member
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    Portland, OR, USA.
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    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    Glad to hear ya got a good deal on veneer. If you were near me I'd run a piece through my wide belt sander for ya. :) How much is UPS anyways. ;) Maybe a local shop could do it for ya (just under 5/8"). Good luck.

  9. #9
    Member
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    Nath Saburbin Bahstin, Massachusetts, USA.
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    4,570

    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    It seems to me that while the 'ideal' underlayment for the veneer may be the MDF, you are not talking about a huge area, just a drawer front. You should be able to get a piece of plywood that is reasonably close to the thickness you need.

    OR, if you have a good stacked dado set (this won't work with a wobbler), try setting it up for it's full 3/4" width and taking the thickness of a 3/4" MDF down to 5/8 with that. Start with a piece about 18x18 and your fence about 2" from the blade set, make a slow and even pass and move the fence about 1/2" out and continue this until you get out to 2" from the other side. Be sure not to press on the 'thinned portion while you make the subsequent passes, push only on the edges that you leave behind. This will leave a 14x18 area that you can cut out the 13x18" you need, then, cut the 'rails' off the sides of the piece with a standard blade, sand the surface with some 220 grit and voila, you are there. Be sure and apply the veneer that will show on the face side of the drawer to the factory side of the MDF.

    --Deathwish

    When it comes to
    woodworking and buying
    tools, I always think back to
    my grandfathers advice on
    golf . . . "it's not the arrows,
    it's the indian.''

  10. #10
    ed
    Guest

    RE: help me repair a broken drawer front

    kjruhl,
    I forgot to say thanks for advice earlier. obviously I took you up on the veneer and particle board idea ;). I was back on the phone this morning and found a place that only sells commercial but will accomodate me. He has 5/8" in everything; MDF,MDO,and particle board. Sounds too good to be true!

    heh deathwish2,
    funny you should mention plywood, the guy at Colco's did too. I just wasnt happy with the surface finish of the plywood I saw at HD but the thickness was right. The veneer I picked up is super thin like a sheet of paper. I could've bought a package of veneer strips which were thicker and would tolerate the rougher substrate of plywood but I didnt want to splice the pieces together. Little did I know then how difficult 5/8" was to source.

    last night I was contemplating my alternatives and if I had that dado blade I might have gone for it (sounds simple and fast to knock down to size). I considered using the plunge router also. HEHE in fact I have a knock down computer hutch and guess what it has multiple shelves of 5/8" particle board and its even faced on one side. I was thinking of sacrificing one of them there shelves. Still might.



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