When cutting blocks for a glue-up project, what method do you use? In the past I have used a hand miter box for making picture frames and that has been OK. Now I am starting to turn some glue-up projects and I find that the hand miter box is not accurate enough.
Would a CMS be a better choice and will that yield a clean enough edge for a glued joint to be tight? If that is the way to go, which CMS is best for accuracy?
If this is not the way to go, I would appreciate recommendations for cutting accurate angles (not just 45 degrees).
When I was starting out, instead of a bunch of little cut-offs that were angled, what I did was to rip the angle to the board then cut off segments at 90 degrees.
Sortta backwards to what most folks would have you belive.
I also set my jointer to get the angles I wanted and edged different widths to get a really clean angle and cut pieces from those.
Same end results, just a different way to get them, for different thicknesses of wood.
The router bit way has it's limits, like 3/4" or 1" max. The jointer method is limited to the width it can joint a board. (And the cost of that hunk of wood you are going to shave away into chips. :o )
The tiniest error in getting the correct angle results in a gap at the last joint. It can get frustrationising. }>
But once you figure the angle you want and get it to run into a circle you can live with. You'll be railroadin'.
Then, I use whatever amount of hose clamps as it takes to encircle the ring of segments to squash them into a ring, on a flat surface. If they look like what I want, I lay down waxed paper, Loosen the clamp ring enough to get it set aside.
Then put the glue on the mating surfaces, replace the ring clamp, and tap any segments that want to creep while the pressure is applied tightening the clamp.
Then weight it down with a piece of waxed paper, a layer of rubber gasket material, a piece of plywood or MDF, and a 5 gallon bucket of paint (or whatever is damn heavy, Water?).
What that does is clamp it into a circle, and keep it flat while the glue sets up.
The waxed paper peals right off. And you have a segmented ring thats flat enough to glue onto the ring under it.
(Because I build mine up using the lathe to press the rings to the preceeding segmented ring. Then face it off to make ready for the next ring that is in the clamps/press drying.)
Anyhow, there's another way to get those elusive angles you're seeking. ;)
[link:www.sonnyedmonds.com | Sonny Edmonds]
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It ain't an excuse, just a fact."
Since most of my segmented turnings use 12 segments per ring, I made up a sled permanently set at 15 degrees. It is then just a matter of marking the first one for length, setting a stop block, and cutting away.
Difficulty comes in with staves, or compound cuts, which require both a miter angle and a bevel angle. It is really difficult to find 12.08 degrees on my bevel indicator or even on my miter gauge, so I try to avoid that stuff. Guess a fella could do those like the old timers did crown molding if he could figure out the final angle at which the stave would be set and that way could avoid the bevel setting . . . but I digress into space.
I do use Sonny's hose clamp method, or at least the clamps, for glueing up the rings.
I, too, think it's a risk. You could dado the shelves in, but only glue them on the back (or front, or maybe middle) 1/4 or so of the joint. That would leave the balance of the wood free to move. If...