I have all these slabs of black walnut from the bowl blank cuttings... sure would make some pretty pens... I think ... :)
Ya reckin I should just leave em like that to dry ... in 1" X 8" slabs... or cut em up into blanks to let em dry?
... and while we're on the subject, just how dry do they need to be anyhoo?... I mean, there's so little wood left when you get done turning a pen that I wouldn't think wood movement would be an issue anyhoo.... plus it's supported inside with the tube and CA'd within an inch of it's life!
I wood think the issue at this stage wood be more of curtailing splitting than movement ,,,,,,,,if it were me (non pen expert for sure)I wood make them 1" square ASAP and see who made the grade(no splits) in 3 months,,,,,,, now the question arises in my mind what happens to the pen mechanisms if it moves just the tiniest bit,if it causes problems with function then they should be dry.
I set the bandsaw at 3/4" and rip away. Then I'll reset to 5 1/2" and cross cut. Then take a handful and wrap with a rubber band and coat the ends, then set on a shelf for a month. They dry enuff fairly quickly.
Marc & Dave,
I've done that, but with masking tape. (Rubber band poor here. :7 )
I would difinately cut them to size. But I tend to go smaller, like 5/8" for slim line headed stock.
I also cut mine into 2 1/16" long pieces for slim lines and mark them for grain orientation and drawer them for later use.
Wood movement has never been a concern with me. Between the CA inside for the barrel, and the CA I use on the outside, even the jumbos are pretty intombed in CA.
In plain engrish, I've never experianced warpage, to an extent it didn't turn away.
When I am "kit poor", I will have cut-a-thons and make pre-staged blanks.
I don't cut long blanks, because I would "waste" too much from a bunch of 5" blanks. (I don't waste much at all, I have a drawer for shorts I use for oopsies where I will splice on a lifesaver of contrasting wood. Or make someting like the "Yipe's! Stripes!" pen.)
To me the stock is so precious, I rip first, then set the fence at 2 1/16" and do captured cross-cutting from the longer sticks.
Every other cut gets a line and indexing numbers on it to match the center grain for the finished pen.
If the wood is dry, I will also drill the blanks and drawer them for later use.
I have some bundles of green wood drying right now, the ones in tape.
Oils wells! :7
how 30-year-old teak would work under such circumstances? Remember the stereo cabinet that I inherited/acquired? The equipment supports are just about perfect size for pens. Anybody ever work with the stuff before?
Mr. Snippy says, "actually not the best place for this particular question. Sorry for derailing your thread, Marc. I shouldn't have any problems with the sticks being dry."
Who the hell is Mr. Snippy and why did they think you were highjacking the thread?
Sounded like a reasonable part of the converstation to me. I haven't done any Teak pens myself, I find Teak is a little bland for my taste in a pen.
But heck, that's just me. I made some Mohogany pens and those are bland as pablum to me. :P
I was given this idea by a someone on a penturning forum.... after cutting all the blanks.. stack them on a cookie sheet log cabin style with space between them and put them in a 200-250 degree oven with the door slightly propped open for about 3 hours. I did this with some black locust, walnut and cherry I had and it worked like a charm with no end checking at all...
When they are done you can either let them cool slowly or serve with cheese and salsa... your decision..
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