Turning Across Grain?

**Knotty_Pine** · 04-01-2009, 02:07 PM

I've been considering a new project for a while, but I'm a little leery as to what the outcome will be. I have a piece of Oak that I've been thinking about making a platter out of, but it is a little too narrow to make a good one, so I've been thinking about turning it across the grain (Mounting the side against the spur and live center, instead of the ends). Has anyone considered turning a piece this way, and if so, how did it turn out?

I think the only major issue I might hit would be tearout on the upper edge, but a sharp tool should minimize that. I know I'd have to do the majority with a bowl gouge as my shew probably isn't up to the strain.

**TDHofstetter** · 04-01-2009, 02:16 PM

That's... how we turn nearly all the bowls & platters we turn, actually. It's called "faceplate" turning, and it works really well. It's a TON easier with a faceplate than between centers, and it's TWO tons easier with a lathe chuck.

-- Tim --

Member of the
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International
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MR · 04-01-2009, 02:41 PM

Yep, that's the way most bowls are turned...

**Knotty_Pine** · 04-01-2009, 02:49 PM

Wow, well it'll be a new world for me. I've always worked with the grain running in line with the bed. File handles, table legs, etc.

My apologies for thinking I was misunderstood. the terminology eludes me somewhat, I'm self taught and I basically learn as I come to a new item.

Is there anything I seriously need to know before I try it?

MR · 04-01-2009, 02:54 PM

I'm pretty new to turning, too. There's a whole lot of stuff I don't know, and the stuff I do know I'm not very good at.

If you mount the blank to a faceplate (secured directly to the blank with screws) or a chuck, you don't even have to use the tailstock. I usually use a faceplate to do the outside of the bowl and make either a tenon or a recess on the bottom of the bowl, then reverse the blank, take off the faceplate, and use the chuck on the tenon/recess and finish the inside of the bowl.

You need to try to balance the blank as well as possible, or the lathe will rock a lot. On the rough blanks I've used, I actually do use the tailstock in addition to the faceplate when roughing the still log-like blank into a more bowl-like shape.

There's probably a lot more you (and I) need to know, but I'm like you - I pretty much figure it out as I go...this forum is super helpful (and friendly) as well. So far things have gone OK.

Good luck!

**Knotty_Pine** · 04-01-2009, 03:02 PM

The PSI Turncrafter Pro came with a spur center and a 3" faceplate. I have tried t omount a partially started bowl blank on the faceplate (a piece of scrap stock glued to the base of the bowl and then screwed to the plate) but while I waited for the glue to cure it cracked. I haven't tried it since. I started a thread about cracking and busting, I hope some of the experts can help out, it's very frustrating.

I'm by far better at carpentry than I am lathe work. I can cut a dovetail (both tails and pins) by hand with just a handsaw and chisel in just minutes and it work right without hardly any tuning, but put me on the lathe and I have a hard time rolling a simple bead. Go figure.

I've learned some, but there is so much to learn. I came online day one and hunted down all the safety info I could find, but it seems the little secrets are well hidden when it comes to making nice items. If I could turn as well as Ican be safe, I'd be a bowlturning legend, lol.

**Cody Colston** · 04-01-2009, 03:23 PM

For turning a bowl or a platter screw the faceplate directly to the blank...no glue block. After shaping what will become the bottom, reverse the turning and then hollow out, removing the screw holes in the process.

If you have a scroll chuck, you will turn a tenon or recess when shaping the bottom. The chuck will grab there. If you don't have a chuck, then you will need to attach a glue block and screw the faceplate into it. A piece of brown paper between the glue block and the blank will make it easy to separate when you are ready.

The method you were initially doing, with the grain running parallel to the lathe ways is called end-grain turning. It's quite a bit more difficult to hollow out since it is all end grain. Orienting the piece at 90 degrees to the ways (as you want to do now) will have you hollowing side grain (much easier) and the outside of the bowl will be half side grain and half end grain. The end grain may want to tear out a bit and is harder to sand, depending on the species of wood.

You can mount an end grain blank on a faceplate (with lots of screws) and you can mount a side-grain piece between centers or on a woodworm screw. But, I find using a faceplate on side-grain blanks the easiest and safest method.

Cody
Tyler, TX

[center][b]The expert at anything was once a beginner.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c8...n/thCandle.jpg

**Knotty_Pine** · 04-01-2009, 03:41 PM

Wow, very comprehensive answer sir! I haven't been here two hours and I already love this place!

So, what I am wanting to do is termed 'Side Grain' turning? And what I have been doing is end-grain turning (like for file handles and whatnot).

The minute I start to get a handle on the terminology, I believe I'll be able to eliminate a lot of confusion on my part. BTW, I will try to get a few photos of some file handles I've made, I think that some of you may like them.

I do have some wood screws, so I think I'll try that method this evening.

TJ.

**TDHofstetter** · 04-01-2009, 04:15 PM

You'll find... that when you turn wood, you hafta' switch off the part of your mind that you use to cut dovetails using a saw & a chisel, and turn ON another part of your mind that you normally leave turned off. It's like the difference between staring intently & mindfully at something versus gazing at it with your eyes out of focus. When you turn, you let everything go loose.

It's also like "the muse", as when a pianist just PLAYS without thinking... or when you're driving and wake up half an hour later with no memory of having driven that last stretch of road. You turn over control to... the "artistic mind", which thinks in cymas instead of rectangles. You FEEL it more than you THINK it.

Except for the guys who pound out production bowls, that is. :) They don't feel OR think it - they just DO it 'cause it's a job.

-- Tim --

Member of the
Robert "Limey" Bolton Memorial
International
Volunteer Mentorship and Assistance
Programme

**Cody Colston** · 04-01-2009, 06:47 PM

You FEEL it more than you THINK it.

Especially if you get your knuckles too close to the spinning bark edge on a natural edge bowl. I guarantee you will feel THAT! :)

But, Tim's exactly right. As a matter fo fact, when I first got my lathe, he advised me to remember that what I did to one place on the blank, I did all the way around..."you have to think in the round."

Anyway, it's a whole 'nother dimension to woodworking and a very fun one, too. Enjoy!

Cody
Tyler, TX

[center][b]The expert at anything was once a beginner.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c8...n/thCandle.jpg