We recently purchased a Vermont Castings stove to help deter gas heating costs (and it really looks nice too). Code requires a zero-clearence chimney and I've only found a couple of sites that offer these and I am amazed at the costs. Current calculations put the price of the chimney almost in line with the stove.
Has anybody purchsed these types of chimneys or have any opinions regarding which ones are better bargains than the others. Or is there another alternative out there that I'm unaware of.
HI,what type of set up is it going to be?does it have to be o
clerence all the way up.I use a wood stove in my cabin and it is only 0 clerence only where it goes through the cathedule cieling,and that part was costly along with the galvinized chimny on the roof.I kept the stove and all it piping away from walls according to manufactures
codes.I can`t amagine what it would cost from the unit all the way up.it would be a lot.Good luck, Carl
You'll find that triple-wall stainless steel chimney pipe IS expensive. It's also worth every penny. It's only usually really required at the thimble (where it passes through a wall or ceiling or roof), but it's worth doing for the entire run - despite the cost of something like $75 per 2-foot stick for 8-inch. Most stoves can go to 6-inch and be better for it, in my opinion (having the Consolidated Dutchwest / Vermont Castings "Sequoia" in my house, piped through 6". Improves the draft. The big "Home Heater", which only gets lit about 1 week per year, still runs into 8" pipe because when that baby gets fired it gets FIRED.
The rationale behind the "good" pipe? Because of its inherent insulative properties, it's far less likely to build up a creosote layer, and in doing so helps prevent chimney fires. For the same reason, it helps promote greater draft - because the gases stay hotter as they climb the pipe. It's stainless, and will last virtually forever - as compared to "standard" thinwall black chimney pipe which needs to be replaced every few years. That saves you the heartache of climbing around reinstalling rusted and corroded pipe. BTW - avoid using galvanized pipe because the hot zinc emits highly toxic gas.
Spend the money, save yourself chimney sweeping (or a chimney fire), climbing, money over the long run, smoke in the house on lower-draft days. Probably other things, too.
(EDIT - By the bye, I can let you in on a few little tricks to reduce the stove-to-wall clearance significantly if you haven't already set the stove. Reduced our Sequoia's clearance from 48" to just about 10"... and the wall stays cool.)
The stove is in the basement of a split-level ranch. It has to go through the suspended basement ceiling, living room floor, living room ceiling and finally through the roof. There was an old pipe in there to begin with but was ripped out last year so the "basic" holes are in place. I want to do it right and by the book.
As per above. We have not set the stove in place. The guy that helped me buildout the area where the stove will go screwed up on the framing so it has to be considerd a combustable wall although we put up cement board and tile on the wall around the stove and tile on a concrete floor for the stove to sit.
We purchased the largest Vermont stove (already forgot the name) because we plan on taking it with us when we eventually move to bigger digs (not for a few years though) I may even take the chimney with me too at the current prices I'm seeing.
So I'm essentially working from scratch but already have the holes in the floors (or ceilings depending on your perspective) so we have the route set up for the chimney. I'm interested in any techniques that will help with clearence. But my biggest burden is choosing the best value (cost/safety) in the chimney itself.
OK. Sounds like you're already beyond the point where much'll change as far as clearance, although you can pull one stunt that can make a real difference. Since you've already got the tile wall up, we can't do that schtick. Ah, well.
Go get a bunch of aluminum flashing and some long steel screws. Some of the screws'll have to be certain sizes, so read me out before ya go.
Check out the back of the stove. Any screws you can remove and replace with longer ones? How about on the stovepipe itself?
Make an aluminum reflector that'll match the rear profile of the stove (sides, too, if they're near a wall). Hang that reflector about an inch away from the stove using the longie screws. Use aluminum spacers or 1/4" copper pipe to stand the reflector away. Do the same with the stovepipe, except use the screws that already hold each section to the next section. Bingo - you've just made yourself a FAR cooler wall.
Had the tiles not been in place yet, I'd have told you to drywall the wall instead. Combustible, sure. We ain't done. Cut Wonderboard or whatever brand to the size & shape you want, then cut a series of extra strips of the same backer board about 2" wide. Use the strips to stand the backer board about an inch off the drywall. THEN tile. You'd have wanted a little air gap at the bottom and another at the top so the false wall can "respirate".
Add the aluminum shield and you have a truly COLD wall. With just the aluminum, you still have a very cool wall. Super-safe, even with low clearance.
As to chimney pipe, I'm convinced that the best price / safety ratio is with the triple-wall stainless (like Metalbestos). I'd do it again in a heartbeat if I moved.
I follow what your up to. And while there may be some limited application for the basement I do know that you have really helped with the garage setup. I got a small woodbox stove for the garage (we've already had a few inches and too many below freezing days in Northern IL.) to maintain a comfortable working environment.