Replacing Paneling with wallboard

**larliz** · 12-30-2002, 06:01 PM

I am taking down the panelling in my den and putting up wallboard. I expect to find that the panelling is flush with the door frames and that this will pose a problem that the wallboard will be too high to put the trim back on.

How should I resolve this? Build up the profile of the door frames with some wood or ply so that its equal to the depth of the wallboard? Then what do I do with making the trim pieces that cover the edges?

**Jerry M** · 12-30-2002, 11:14 PM

This is not too rare a situation. I've been trimming doors and windows for 25 years or so and I've seen this a lot.

Here are two common solutions:

1. Put an extra "step," (or double-reveal) in the trim detail by adding a piece onto the jamb, but not flush to the face of the jamb. Step the piece back 1/8 to 3/16 from the face (creating a "reveal")---using a piece of the right thickness to flush out with the wallboard. Then step the casing back again, as you would usually. Keeping the reveals small (reveal= the amount of the jamb edge that shows, and in this case, the amount of the new piece (jamb extension) that shows)---allows you to nail the casing through the extension into the jamb.

2. Rabbet the back of the casing to accommodate the extra thickness. This works best with thicker casings. You lose too much from a thin (like 5/8) casing to make this look good IMHO.

Other solutions exist, too (like replacing the jamb, or cutting the jamb in two behind the stop and adding a filler strip here where it is hidden) but they are more trouble.

Hope this helps

---Jerry

You need to learn from other people's mistakes. You'll never have enough time to make them all yourself.

**LumberJock** · 12-31-2002, 12:34 PM

If you're lucky your doors might have split jambs. If you're really, really, really lucky then the hinge side of the jamb is not on the side of the wall you're replacing.

If you are blessed with this situation then you can remove the casing and the half of the jamb on the side you're working on without removing the door, hinges, etc.

Then all you have to do is slip the jamb together, nail, and repaint.

**woodchuck1954** · 01-07-2003, 02:59 PM

No matter how you solve the problem of the jamb, the old casing should not be ANY different. If you took care of taking the old casing off, it can go right back on, as it was. Sand it clean, before re-installing it. Don't pull the nails from the outside. After taking it off the wall, use a pair of dykes and pull the nails through the back side. Then you won't break the surface of the exterior face.
Cutting the nails between the casing and the wall is easier and less destructive, than prying the casing completely loose. Use a sharp utility knife to cut the joints and inside edges, if caulk was used for filling the cracks.

**daveferg** · 01-08-2003, 11:34 AM

Just a few other thoughts--

Is this paneling sheet goods or real tounge and groove? If it's solid wood, I'd take real care removing it---I'm sure you could sell it to someone.

If it's sheet goods, are you sure there's no wallboard behind it? That might eliminate your door jamb problem--though it will add a whole bunch more, depending on if the panels were glued or nailed on.