Mounting cabinets on metal studs

[Bra_k]

I am needing to know how to mount a set of upper kitchen cabinets into metal studs. I know it is different when working with metal studs in that they don't support as well as wood studs. The walls are already finished so I can't put wood inside the metal studs. Is there anything special I can use for mounting the cabinets on the wall into the metal studs, like molly bolts or special fasteners? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank,

Tod

[TDHofstetter]

You should be able to use French cleats, carefully screwed into the studs. If you can figure out which side the web is on, I'd run the screws in as near the web as possible. You may even want to use more French cleats than normal to cover for the possibility of pulling the screws out of the steel.

BUT... I'd still not trust 'em to carry as much weight as wood studs, though.

-- Tim --

Member of the
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[sibi1972]

You could cut away the sheet rock from the wall but not to the point where the installed cabinet won't cover the cutout. Once open, you can better support the wall and even add a cat where the cabinets have a screw flange then replace the piece you took out and go to it. You'd hate to see a cabinet full of dishes fall off the wall.

Edit in:
And if the Boss is asking "Why are you doing THAT now??" Just tell her that you're fixing a mistake you made and it needs to be done.

"Red"

[Bra_k]

Actually this is an office. I am doing this for a friend. I was thinking about putting 3/4" plywood on the wall with liquid nail and molly bolts, and then mount the cabinet to the plywood. This way I would have multiple anchor points on the plywood to the metal studs and more anchors from the cabinet to the plywood. What do you guys think about that?
Tod

[TDHofstetter]

That sounds about as feasable as anything - you could run a LOT of screws from the plywood into the studs.

Then the only worry is whether the studs are anchored really well to the top plate... :)

-- Tim --

Member of the
Robert "Limey" Bolton Memorial
International
Volunteer Mentorship and Assistance
Programme

[cabinetman]

Whether the studs are sound enough is a viable question. On a lot of new construction here, grounds are usually specified.

Half inch ply could be used for backs to carry weight. Plywood backs of any thickness should be set in a rabbet, and fastened to the carcass. For starters, the depth of the rabbet could amount to the thickness of the back. If a 1/4" plywood back is used, a minimum rabbet would be 1/4" x 1/4". The depth into the cabinet could be increased to allow for scribe, or uneven walls. Backs into a rabbet add rigidity to the carcass and can square the cabinet.

Half inch backs can be used in lieu of a hangrail. In this case, the rabbet would extend 1/2" plus any scribe amount. To carry weight of a wall cabinet, a hangrail can be used in conjunction with a back. Hangrails can be mounted on either side of the back of the cabinet. If it is to be seen on the inside of the cabinet, it should be glued and screwed/fastened to the top and sides of the cabinet. You may also choose to install two hangrails...one at the top and one at the bottom.

If the hangrail is to be used on the backside of the back (so it isn't seen from the inside of the cabinet), a rabbet would be as deep as the thickness of the back and the thickness of the hangrail, plus any scribe.

Hangrails could be of plywood or solid wood. It will act as a stiffener, and a corner gusset. It's wise to make them wide enough to get two screws per mounting point if necessary. As a minimum, I make them at least 2 1/2" x 3/4".

As for mounting to a wood stud wall, finding the center of the studs may save some grief. Catching the very edge of a stud may feel like it's centered. For metal studs, screwing close to the web as Tim mentioned helps. You can't be so close that the screw will bind on the web. An easy method is to locate the mounting points on the wall. Then mark off on the wall where the cabinet will be mounted. Then measure from one edge of the cabinet (wall mark) to the stud marks. Then transfer that measurement to the back of the cabinet to drill small perpendicular pilot holes. A block of wood can be held on the inside of the cabinet to prevent any tear out. Use a countersinking bit to those holes on the inside. When the cabinet is placed where it will be installed, and it is plum and level, Make sure the screws are long enough, and I recommend using a cordless on the slowest speed (most torque, and easier to control).

I use a drywall type screw, like from [link:www.grabberman.com|Grabber]. The coarse thread holds very well, and they don't break. Put first screw in about 95% and go to the next screw. When that screw is 95%, check cabinet that it's still OK, and then bump the screws in tight. Don't run them in at speed. That's a good way to strip out the hole. Bumping tight also permits concentration of good bit/screw contact, which may mean less spinning out.

French cleats may also be used. They can be fabricated to mount in the same rabbet as the back. I usually allow the depth of the rabbet for a 3/4" cleat and a 1/4" back to be 1 1/8" plus any for scribe. The extra 1/8" is to keep the cabinet cleat from bottoming out in the wall cleat and allow it to fully pull the cabinet up tight to the wall. The French cleat dimension for height can be increased to get a few screws into the studs.

[sibi1972]

As a new guy to a lot of this that decides on what's strong enough and what's not by what I think is enough and past experience, Thank You for that.

"Red"