I built this addition on the back of our house years ago. Wanted a hip roof cause I thought it would be fun to build and I wanted a window in the peak of my son's bedroom. It's not properly vented and I've decided I should have matched the existing roof line so it didn't look added on to.
My summer plan is to build a new roof over the existing one without damaging the inside ceiling sheetrock. ( the hip roof is just 2x8's ½" ply on top and sheetrock underneath 8" of fiberglass between). I also want to extend it by 9 feet over the back deck and also extend the overhangs on the sides of the entire roof over the wood walkways.
I plan to cut threw the existing hip roof over the walls to bring the walls up to the rest of the house wall height. Then cut off the existing over hangs flush with the wall. I will reside the entire house with some woodlook cement board. http://www.PhotoShare.co.nz/PhotoSha...I-Beam7111.jpg
The section of roof over the back deck I want to build an open beam ceiling. The sheeting on top of this section will be tongue and groove pine with 4"x8" beams. I'm kind of crunched for space with the steps and the height of the house so I plan to use a 4" tall x 2.5" wide metal I beam to hang/bolt my 4x8's on 2 foot centers. It will be 9 feet long with 6" sitting on the house wall and 5¼" bolted into a notch in a 6x6 post bolted on top a concrete pier. http://www.PhotoShare.co.nz/PhotoSha...russes6477.jpg
I plan to build the 2x4 trusses on the roof as I go. The end wall of the house will go to the roof (over the bay window). The 4x8 beams will bolt to the I-beams and bolt with plates to a beam coming across the center. (For the beams over the deck). I'll probably use ¼" metal plates bolted threw on both sides of all beam and post connections.
I think this will all work okay, only thing I'm not 100% sure of is the metal I-beam size. My son works with an engineer and he said he would ask him to run the numbers for me, but I can't imagine this wouldn't be plenty strong?
The old roof is 2x8's on 2 foot centers (hip) 3/12 pitch the new roof will be 4x8's on 2 foot center with a 6/12 pitch.
I don't want to start cutting into the roof until we're past our rainy season (according to my weather station the last 4 years thats May so I need to wait till June 1st) so I thought I would start by digging the holes for the posts and getting those poured and set.
>That's quite an undertaking. My question is do you have to
>get a permit? And, if so, do you have to submit sealed
>engineering drawings, or sealed architectural drawings for
[font color="purple"] Cab,
I was on the land use planning committee years ago, technically I shouldn't need a permit because I'm not changing the size of the building ( the decks are already there) about the only thing they are concerned about in our town is meeting property line set backs.
As for the engineering drawings, I doubt anyone currently on the planning committee or city counsil could read them. I once submitted a drawing I made of some surveyed property lines for a retaining wall I needed to build and they just couldn't seem to grasp it. The Mayor at the time was a state engineer and he appreciated the drawing and approved the permit. Our current Mayor has no such background. http://www.PhotoShare.co.nz/PhotoSha.../block1519.jpg
I thought it was pretty self explanitory, however most stuff submitted to the planning committee were hand drawn scraps of paper with no surveys or engineering specs done.
Our city administrator is our building inspector and he hired us (me, my wife and son) years ago to reside his house because he didn't know how to do it. Here's an old picture of the siding job we did on his house. http://www.PhotoShare.co.nz/PhotoSha...ngers868_M.jpg
I'm curious though, why you ask?
Do you think my plan is not structurally sound?
I've always thought I have a tendancy to overbuild (go beyond what is necessary). Though in this case I would like to go with taller beams however the conditions are kind of limiting, that's why I'm having an engineer calculate the I beam load, make sure it's strong enough.
Your location seems more rules relaxed than Ft. Lauderdale. I wanted to build a roof over an existing roof. Like yours, as I had to reside in the house. Looking at the front of the house, it has a flat deck. The rear of the house has a pitched roof forward. IOW, along the center line from left to right, the high point of the rear roof is 4' higher than the flat deck. I wanted to do a pitched roof in the front, from the high point down to the front edge of the flat deck.
I was going to do all the work myself. I planned to build the trusses right up on the flat deck
We in no way could get by without a permit. Since we were changing the look, we needed a set of sealed architectural drawings, to include complete engineering drawings. After paying for all that, the city would not approve the change.
>Your location seems more rules relaxed than Ft. Lauderdale.
I would imagine, a lot less people here. Did they give you a reason for not letting you do it?
Would it be possible to resubmit when some of those people are replaced (over time).
I sometimes wish we had more rules. The people who bought the house next to mine last year now have 4 junked out cars in their yard along with a winnabago and a pull type camper along with a pickup camper shell. Not to mention all the other little stuff, junked lawn mowers (4 of them I don't know why, they never mow their lawn) toys and used indoor furniture outside and all sorts of other assorted crap. This is all on a 130' x 60' lot with a sinking house on it.
If we had some covenents or rules maybe I wouldn't have to live next to that.
Personally if I could go back in time I would have bought the biggest chunk of land (out of town) that I could make payments on. Back when we bought our house land around here was around $400 an acre. My brother (whom has a real job, unlike myself being self employed) bought 35 acres of land 15 miles from where I am 2 years ago. He said the land was selling for $5,000.00 an acre.
>>Your location seems more rules relaxed than Ft. Lauderdale.
>I would imagine, a lot less people here. Did they give you a
>reason for not letting you do it?
>Would it be possible to resubmit when some of those people
>are replaced (over time).
The problem was very involved. The front part of the house was built in 1952, and then it was common practice to structure standing block between doors and windows topped with a wood beam. With the new hurricane codes, they wanted either a steel beam or a concrete header with columns supporting it, to carry the load at the front. This would put the front of the house too close to the easement line. This would be a major reconstruction of the front, not allowing us to live in it while construction was going on.
I guess we could have appealed it with a lawyer and tried to get a waiver. But that is a "fighting city hall thing" that homeowners never win.
It might also be important for you to seek feedback from friends and relatives before you contact a particular company. People that have used the service previously will be in a better position to provide you feedback and also share their concerns with you. NJ Emergency Roof Repairs
I had a question related to getting a permit. Do you have a code issue? Or a safety issue? From your photos it appears your son's bedroom won't have a window. Hopefully you will never need it, but two ways out of the room is best (and, at least here, a code requirement).
As I said there really aren't many "codes" here at least no agencies around to check or enforce any of it, other than electrical and meeting property set backs.
My son is married and moved out now. We don't use the upstairs bedroom for anything but storage at this point.
I plan to leave the window there, and build the trusses around it for access into the new roof, course that probably wouldn't help in an escape from a fire. There is another window in that room (down the stairs inside ) left side of house looking at the picture, towards the shed.