You wouldn't, by chance, have an 8" Sears / King Seely table saw? Like the one I use for crosscutting? At any rate, regardless of make & model, I've made up bushings for other folks and I'd be tickled to make some more up for you. No prob.
If you have that saw, and if you haven't noticed the fact yet, you can bump that saw up to a 9" blade if you're careful & do it right.
Email me with your address particulars & I'll pop some bushings in the mail for you. Lessee - you'll want thinnies for ordinary sawblades, right? And maybe a couple bigger ones for a dado stack? Not that a dado stack is a very good idea on only a 1/2" arbor shaft, but it CAN be done if the stack is little. Maybe y'oughtta stick with thinnies for ordinary blades.
Oh, one other thing - if yours is the Sears / King Seely saw I can put a slight flange on one side because the stock arbor flange is hollowed enough. That'll keep the bushings from squirreling around while you're mounting sawblades. If yours is a different saw but might still accomodate a little flange, lemme know & I'll put one there.
In case you aren't sure how to email me direct through the forum, my address is:
It's worth noting here that I personally own a set of those bushings - and that's why I decided to make my own.
The commercially-available bushings are fine IF your arbor washers are flat. This saw, however, has rather concave arbor washers and with it the Sears bushings serve best to divest your head of precious hair if you attempt their use. They're only about 1/16" thick, and they tend to tuck themselves into the concave washers - leaving your blade as unbushed as before.
Go ahead, try the Sears bushings. If you're not satisfied with the way they work on your saw, just remember that my (free) offer still stands. Gratis. No cashola at all except US Postage (extremely cheap).
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