Quarter sawing lumber

**wood hoarder** · 04-30-2003, 07:44 AM

First of all I would like to say hello to everyone and how wonderful I think this site is.I'm a long time lurker and a first time poster.My question is about quarter sawing some walnut,white ash,eastern red cedar,and some cherry.Usually I only hear about white oak being quarter sawn because of the grain and ray patterns.Is there any reason(stability, value,ect..) to have my logs of the species mentioned previously quarter sawn,or is it just a matter of preference.Thanks,James

**deathwish2** · 04-30-2003, 09:09 AM

For some samples of what different woods look like when quartersawn, check out this flooring link:
http://www.launstein.com/wide-plank-...de-cherry.html

Any wood will look a little different when cut from a different angle, whether or not you like the effect is a personal preference. When quartersawing, you need a tree trunk over 16" thick to yield a 4/4x8" plank. With flatsawing you can do it with a tree under 12" thick. Flatsawn is a more efficient method of cutting from a production standpoint, and yields wider boards from skinnier trees.

EDIT: And yes, quartersawing the wood gives it more stability than flatsawing, the drawback is a smaller yield of bigger boards (same number of board feet, just less wide stock). And also . . .WELCOME!

--Deathwish

When it comes to
woodworking and buying
tools, I always think back to
my grandfathers advice on
golf . . . "it's not the arrows,
it's the indian.''

**Lou_williams** · 04-30-2003, 05:36 PM

Mark is right on what he has posted.

To add a bit. While you can get wide boards from flat sawn lumber they are not very stable when wide. The flat sawn wood will tend to cup and to limit that you end up cutting it and gluing it back with alternating rings.

Quarter sawn wood is always more stable, when you get a wide board it will be stable and does not need to be alternated to help keep it flat.

So from my perspective it is always better to a log. You will end up with a bit less board ft of useable wood, but in my opinion you will end up with equal to more of that wood being able to be used in Furniture instead of sawdust.

And welcome

**wood hoarder** · 05-01-2003, 07:53 AM

Thanks Mark;Thanks Lou,
The Quarter sawn flooring in the link looked real nice,I think I will have all the logs Quarter sawn except the cedar(too small).I like the fact that it will be more stable too,because I'm new to woodworking and will need all the help I can get.

One of the walnut logs has a sharp crook in it and would for certain have some beautiful curly burl in it.How would you saw that?It's 10ft. long and 24-30" dia.

Thanks again,James

**deathwish2** · 05-01-2003, 08:42 AM

>One of the walnut logs has a sharp crook in it and would for
>certain have some beautiful curly burl in it.How would you
>saw that?It's 10ft. long and 24-30" dia.

Two schools of thought there. Dry it and band saw it into thin veneers to get as much surface out of it as you can . . . . or turn it on a lathe and make some real nice bowls/vases.

--Deathwish

When it comes to
woodworking and buying
tools, I always think back to
my grandfathers advice on
golf . . . "it's not the arrows,
it's the indian.''

**wood hoarder** · 05-01-2003, 09:25 AM

I'm gonna have ta learn to use reply w/quote and smiley faces page.Cra*p(I knew i should have taken that computer class in H.S.)

Anyhow, to saw or to turn.

The log is from a dead standing tree probably 4-5 yrs.From what I've read here(sorry,have lurkers syndrome) the turners like green wood to turn.I don't think I could turn a club with a hickory stick anyway.

Then there is the issue of drying burl(it's a sickness)(lurkers I mean)to keep it from cracking all to pieces.All this stuff is so complicated.

Saw and hope for the best I think.

Thanks again D.W.,James